melvrose12
Registered
Can someone tell me the difference between a G-10 joint and others
G-10
- Thread starter melvrose12
- Start date
The G-10 pin is a composite resin. It looks like plastic, but I believe the make-up is actually more similar to glass. Sorry, not being a chemist, I don't actually know the components. It has a different hit(and completely different look) from pretty much anything else. Some like it, some don't. You should give it a try if curious. Hope this helps.
melvrose12
Registered
thanks
Thanks for your reply I just bought a cue today with a G-10 I didnt receive it yet cant wait to try thanks again
Thanks for your reply I just bought a cue today with a G-10 I didnt receive it yet cant wait to try thanks again
I hope you love it. The majority of people that I know really liked it. I suppose it doesn't hurt that the majority of cuemakers who use it are rally good to begin with
I like mine. Highly recommended.
I've had two cues with G-10 pins love the feel wondering what a sp full splice would feel like with this pin .
A great description, along with Varney's too. What Joe Gold told me (IIRC, he was the first cuemaker to use G-10 pins in cues), was that the G-scale is used to measure tensile strength of steel (how much weight it will bear, before it bends or breaks)...10 being the highest. So the G-10 glass pin has basically the same tensile strength as some steel (seems weird to me, but that's what I was told), but weighs a whole lot less. I know that I LOVE the hit of my Cognoscenti, and it's definitely due to the G-10 pin. :grin: The G-10 pin can be broken, but it's pretty rare, from what I hear.
Scott Lee
www.poolknowledge.com
Scott Lee
www.poolknowledge.com
Pat Diveney makes them.....BTW, the cue I tried of his with a G10 pin was EASILY the best feeling cue I've ever tried!!!! :thumbup:
Thats what I love --just right
I have been playing with a couple fullsplice sneakys with 3/8 10 G 10 pins for two or three years and they are the $hiayt for me, one weighs 17 ounces and the other 18 1/2.--Leonard
Oh yea with 314-2 predator shafts
I have been playing with a couple fullsplice sneakys with 3/8 10 G 10 pins for two or three years and they are the $hiayt for me, one weighs 17 ounces and the other 18 1/2.--Leonard
Oh yea with 314-2 predator shafts
The only way to tell if a cue would play differently with a G-10 screw is to remove it & replace it with some other material. You can not compare a cue with a G-10 screw & anything else, because no two cues have the SAME taper, ferrule, tip or even finish. ALL of these are part of the HIT. I repeat,that I personally have experimented with the SAME cue & changed size & screw types. There was NO DIFFERENCE. In my opinion the screw at the joint, holds the forearm to the handle. PERIOD. THAT'S its only job...JER
Oh yeah, they can definitely be broken. The example people tell me is that you can take a G-10 pin on a cue and stab it through something, but don't even think about swinging your cue like a sword. The side-to-side shear is what G-10's weak to, I believe.
Jerry I did just change one of the two cues I mentioned from 3/8 10 brass pin to G 10 and besides making it lighter it does feel like the other cue now. The two butts are the 4 point green veneer fullsplice predator (Falcon) blanks that Duc sold with one 1 1/2 oz lighter.
This is the broken pin I asked for advice about removing a month ago, and the left hand drill bit got the brass so hot the pin backed right out.--Leonard
It is the second cue from the right in my avatar and both have black phenolic joint rings with wood to wood contact
This is the broken pin I asked for advice about removing a month ago, and the left hand drill bit got the brass so hot the pin backed right out.--Leonard
It is the second cue from the right in my avatar and both have black phenolic joint rings with wood to wood contact
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Warning: I'm not an expert in thermoset plastics, so take this all with a grain of salt.
Although there is a G-scale for steel hardness, that's not what this G is.
G-whatever signifies that the thermoset uses a glass-fiber as its reinforcement. The number after just signifies what that particular thermoset is (initially for cataloging purposes, IIRC). C means canvas. L means linen.
G5 and G9 are melamine-based glass-fiber reinforced thermosets. G10 is an epoxy -based glass-fiber thermoset.
G7 is a silicone-base glass reinforced "thermoset." Though some people have a tough time putting silicone in the same category.
Fred
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I concur!
HEre are mine...I believe the j/b is the only cue in the world with 2 g-10 pins in it.
http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=13519
Varney! Don't you ruin that for me!
:grin:
Further, there is a g-11, IIRC.
Yes Ron same material. The G10 works well (same, not better) but it doesn't hold chalk as well as the canvas-resin phen. The G10 is also rougher on the cueball...as in cracks it. :wink:
RBC
Deceased
Fred,
Thanks! You beat me to it!
These materials often fall under the trade name of Garolite. They were originally designed for, and still mostly used for, insulators in the electrical power transmission industry.
As cue makers, we are somewhat scavengers. We don't use enough of most materials to justify creating all new products, so we scavenge things from other industries that suit our needs.
G-10, is a very hard composite. It, as Fred pointed out, uses an Epoxy base with glass fibers as the substrate.
Personally, I think the main difference in the way a cue plays with a G-10 pin is due to the weight differences in the middle of the cue. A light jointed cue will play distinctly different than a heavy jointed cue. I don't think that there is enough difference in the flex of the screw to be noticeable. Try to imagine how strong the bending forces are on the screw. They really aren't very high. Now try to bend a steel screw and a G-10 screw with those same forces. Both are more than strong enough to virtually prevent any flexing. Even though one may be stronger than the other, they are both overkill compared to the forces against them.
Weight in the joint is a whole different study!
Just my experiences!
Royce Bunnell
www.obcues.com
Thanks! You beat me to it!
These materials often fall under the trade name of Garolite. They were originally designed for, and still mostly used for, insulators in the electrical power transmission industry.
As cue makers, we are somewhat scavengers. We don't use enough of most materials to justify creating all new products, so we scavenge things from other industries that suit our needs.
G-10, is a very hard composite. It, as Fred pointed out, uses an Epoxy base with glass fibers as the substrate.
Personally, I think the main difference in the way a cue plays with a G-10 pin is due to the weight differences in the middle of the cue. A light jointed cue will play distinctly different than a heavy jointed cue. I don't think that there is enough difference in the flex of the screw to be noticeable. Try to imagine how strong the bending forces are on the screw. They really aren't very high. Now try to bend a steel screw and a G-10 screw with those same forces. Both are more than strong enough to virtually prevent any flexing. Even though one may be stronger than the other, they are both overkill compared to the forces against them.
Weight in the joint is a whole different study!
Just my experiences!
Royce Bunnell
www.obcues.com