What finish
- Thread starter TomHay
- Start date
A special combination of Linseed Oil that is my secret.
Why, because George Balabushka used an Oil Finish. Also because it protects the wood by penetrating the surface, and when it becomes dull looking / dirty all you need to do to refinish it is re-apply some of the Oil and hand rub it in until it shines.:smile:
Pretty cool. I am a little brain dead right now but the Author of the first edition Billiard Encyclopedia was visiting us years ago and the co author used the same type finish.
We told him at that time (not sure about now) that Abe was alive of Star Cues and he called him and raced out the door.
We told him at that time (not sure about now) that Abe was alive of Star Cues and he called him and raced out the door.
I use the same stuff Chris does because I don't have the facilities to spray. Epoxy gives off almost no fumes.
I use Du Pont Clearcoat, but like Chris said, you have to be very careful or it can damage your health...JER
I haven't tried it, but, Richard Black gave me this recipe for an oil finish
about 8 or 9 years ago.
Mix a few drops of motor oil ( forgot what weight) with baby powder
and buff.
about 8 or 9 years ago.
Mix a few drops of motor oil ( forgot what weight) with baby powder
and buff.
Don't know about the Balabushka oil finish. Seems I've heard spray lacquer
a time or two. I've restored two balabushka, and the finish just melted away with lac thinner. Won't comment on epoxy, haven't used it, but have refinihed a lot of epoxy finished cues. With the statement, that these were done years ago with who knows what epoxy, all had some
yellowing, and most had lift spots. I'm sure there has been some improvements in the formula. I like UV, but it's not for the hobbiest.
a time or two. I've restored two balabushka, and the finish just melted away with lac thinner. Won't comment on epoxy, haven't used it, but have refinihed a lot of epoxy finished cues. With the statement, that these were done years ago with who knows what epoxy, all had some
yellowing, and most had lift spots. I'm sure there has been some improvements in the formula. I like UV, but it's not for the hobbiest.
I get attacked just about every time I post even the tiniest suggestion, and I swore I would keep my advice to myself, but this is important enough to me to break that self-promise.
Charcoal respirators are not adequate protection for auto clear. The dangerous chemicals are not "neutralized" by the charcoal, but simply absorbed into it, greatly limiting the capacity of the charcoal to be continually effective. Long before you think you're smelling dangerous fumes the charcoal will have ceased to protect you, and is (in my opinion) the equivalent of using a condom with just a few holes in it. You feel better 'cause you're wearing it, but it's not really as protective as you need it to be.
This is what I use:
http://www.gemplers.com/product/125915/Tyvek-Hood-Supplied-Air-Respirator-System
I'm not saying this to try to "one-up" anybody. I bought my system almost 20 years ago, and think I remember paying around $200 - 300 for it. So I'm actually shocked at the current price. However, having used it for so long, if mine suddenly crumbled to dust I would buy another one before I sprayed a single cue, even if I had to take out a second mortgage to do so.
The photo doesn't show it, but the air draw for the compressor comes through a long, large diameter hose that (in my case) draws outside air (through a very fine filter system) from the other end of my shop (50+ ft. from the spray booth). I am religious about wearing this from the time I final wipe the cues to the time I leave the booth. It literally takes only a second or two to put on.
BTW, a guy could probably make up something similar for a lot less money and just buy the Survivair hoods, but if you do try that be sure to use an OIL-LESS compressor. Using just a regular old compressor would be a great way to get an instant case of chemical pneumonia (yes, there are dryers and filters you can put in-line and just use your regular shop air, but if they don't do as good a job as you'd hope it'll be too late).
And finally, I sometimes end an opinionated "advice" post with something like "Don't like it? I don't care". Not this time. I do care. My friend Burton Spain died from pancreatic cancer. No one can truly know what caused it, but it's a reasonable bet his haphazard exposure to chemicals was involved. I would not wish that on anyone.
I love cuemaking, and I love cuemakers. Not ALL individual cuemakers, of course; there are individuals I can't stand (and undoubtedly plenty more who can't stand me). But as a generic group I pretty much love other cuemakers the way cops love other cops, and I don't want to see any one of them poisoned becasue they weren't aware of how to protect themselves.
TW
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Thomas Wayne, we share the same ground on this topic. To use a Charcoal respirator you must have VERY good ventilation and at end of day put the respirator in a sealed tight baggie and it is only good for that at 7 days max.
I personally had cancer three times in my life. I can't pronounce the kind of cancer, 34 letters no two the same but the definition was Urethane Plastic Texas.
I have been around Urethane my entire adult life and mixed and applied more than anyone belonging to the A to Z combined.
My warning was subtle and if you do the math the cost of properly used charcoal respirators over even a small period of time pays for getting the fresh air.
A UV finish is an acrylic modified Aliphatic urethane, same difference as Iso is Iso.
I personally had cancer three times in my life. I can't pronounce the kind of cancer, 34 letters no two the same but the definition was Urethane Plastic Texas.
I have been around Urethane my entire adult life and mixed and applied more than anyone belonging to the A to Z combined.
My warning was subtle and if you do the math the cost of properly used charcoal respirators over even a small period of time pays for getting the fresh air.
A UV finish is an acrylic modified Aliphatic urethane, same difference as Iso is Iso.
I also use a forced air respirator that seems to work extremely well. The air pressure to the mask is adjustable and I keep it up so that air escapes completely around the circumference so that nothing else can enter. I purchased the one with a hood but found it interfered with my visibility so I adapted it to a half mask as shown here. At no time can I smell anything other than the cool, forced air being supplied to me. I have the machine away from my spray booth so that the air it gathers and filters is clean. I wired it to my exhaust fan in my booth so that any time the exhaust fan is on so is the compressor.
It's the best money I've ever spent on cue making equipment. Only problem is I bought it about 20 years to late. It's easily worth 5 times what I payed for it. Here is what I am using:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Supplied-fr...ultDomain_0&hash=item5882ef55fd#ht_3881wt_698
Dick
Tom,
You see it as a problem but I see it as a positive.
Millions of professional auto finish painters use this stuff everyday and there is no overt epidemic of health issues happening in that industry.
There are lot of reasons not to use one finish or another. In my opinion if you educate yourself to act like and perform like a professional concerning safety and make the capitol expense for the booth and all of the equipment, you will be way ahead of many other products and the proof will be in the pudding.
If you look for reasons not to use something and are willing to settle for an ok finish it will be easy to find. That being said, my good buddy Todd uses thin CA and can put an amazing finish and buff down.
JMO,
Rick
PS: Thanks to TW for having thick skin as he continues to make positive posts and share here. I for one am glad he gives his point of view because it is always intelligent, poignant with a sense of humor and I for one gain incrementally when he shares. Life is too short for all of the Blah Blah BS. For those who like to mind read & attack with negativity they don't have to read the words and stay out of dodge.
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I've been using the waterborne finish from cc
It is pretty good but I'm thinking about spraying clear instead.
To get that super hard deep finish we are all looking for.
I haven't tried the cue cote from Chris, but I may try that as well
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I am here: http://tapatalk.com/map.php?pgqxmt
It is pretty good but I'm thinking about spraying clear instead.
To get that super hard deep finish we are all looking for.
I haven't tried the cue cote from Chris, but I may try that as well
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I am here: http://tapatalk.com/map.php?pgqxmt
Steve is right. I visited George a few times in '72 and '73 to order and pick up a cue. I was doing inlaying and refinishing cues at the time and he showed me how he finished his cues. Yes, he did use an oil but he used it the same way French polishers have used it for centuries and that was just as a lubricant on a pad that applied the finish, which in this case was a lacquer. Without the oil, the pad would have stuck to the cue as soon as the lacquer started to flash. The end result was a lacquer finish applied with a pad. It wasn't very thick and neither is a great French polish but it was extremely smooth and there was no orange peel.
The oil used to sprinkle on the pad didn't become part of the finish.
SCDive Team. I think you are reading me wrong, maybe out on context.
I did not make money shooting Johnny Archer 9 ball for $1,000.00 a rack or selling cues for $100, 001.00 stealing biz from Thomas Wayne.
I would never apply anything but Aliphatic Urethanes on my cues. I did not in the past do not plan to now.
I made my money in the Urethane and Polyurea industry. I just this past year sold my company to my partners. Type in Tom Hay Urethane Polyurea in a search engine and I think you will find a few links.
My warning is like Thomas Waynes. Don't be stupid when you do it. I see people doing it all the time with zero protection and they will die due to it if they don't stop and use protection.
Thomas Wayne was dead on with his direct air, you should wear the peel offs from face protection so you always see properly.
If I even got one person to start protecting themselves today, my life became more meaningfull. Read the MSDS (Manufactures safety data sheets) they will tell you the same thing.
If someone gest Iso sensitivity and poisoning from not protecting themselves 1. They may die. 2. They may switch to inferior products. 3. They may quit making cues.
If I mis wrote I apoligise to you and anyone else. My agenda was keeping people alive and doing what they enjoy. Oh, LOL, sorry about long post.
I did not make money shooting Johnny Archer 9 ball for $1,000.00 a rack or selling cues for $100, 001.00 stealing biz from Thomas Wayne.
I would never apply anything but Aliphatic Urethanes on my cues. I did not in the past do not plan to now.
I made my money in the Urethane and Polyurea industry. I just this past year sold my company to my partners. Type in Tom Hay Urethane Polyurea in a search engine and I think you will find a few links.
My warning is like Thomas Waynes. Don't be stupid when you do it. I see people doing it all the time with zero protection and they will die due to it if they don't stop and use protection.
Thomas Wayne was dead on with his direct air, you should wear the peel offs from face protection so you always see properly.
If I even got one person to start protecting themselves today, my life became more meaningfull. Read the MSDS (Manufactures safety data sheets) they will tell you the same thing.
If someone gest Iso sensitivity and poisoning from not protecting themselves 1. They may die. 2. They may switch to inferior products. 3. They may quit making cues.
If I mis wrote I apoligise to you and anyone else. My agenda was keeping people alive and doing what they enjoy. Oh, LOL, sorry about long post.