LD shafts My Humble opinion

[oldgame]

I shoot with a Cognoscenti and everyone said I was crazy for using a 314-2. I use to use an 11mm shaft and now I have to admitt that I make alot more balls now. I don't know if it's from the LD shaft or because the diameter is fatter. I also jump balls alot better now too.

 

[naji]

I know i am gonna get beat up and bashed over this one but here it goes.

I was reasding a thread yesterday and a fairly new player was asking about wheather or not to buy a low end playing cue and add an LD shaft as his buget was about 300-400 dollars.

I asked him have you ever played with an LD shaft and his answer was no.

My suggestion was take his buget and buy a decent player , Joss , McDermott, Pechaur or something along these lines , find a cue he liked and that fit his playing style and worry about adding an LD shaft later if he just had to have one

For me being a solid maple shaft guy , My personal opinion are LD Shafts are the best gimmick pool cue manufactures have come up with to seperate you from your money.

I have yet played with an LD shaft that i liked better than a solid maple shaft.

It seems new players and even some experinced players are all caught up in the newest gaget craze when it comes to pool technology.

Pool skill does not come your equipment , yes equipment plays a small part but a very small part , you take a player of Efren Reyes , Earl Strickland Caliber , they will beat you to death with a mop handle no matter if you have a 10K blackboar in your hand . with seperate LD shafts for every shot like a bag of golf clubs.

I think many players spend too much time worrying about the equipment and too little time working on the things that matter , fundamentals , stroke , and practice

This is Just my Opinion

Best of Rolls

I am going to be brave and say you are dead wrong with high respect to you. When you buy a TV or an Ipad do you search on line for reviews and the good and the bad? today you walk into a store with almost 100% already decided what brand, model, and color of what you are going to buy; unfortunately, there will be that one thing you wish you'd have on what you bought. Pool mastery (i mean addicted to pool) always requires that one thing; true due to a lot of falls advertising and lots of opinion you do not know for sure, so why not consider the investment as a reward to your own knowledge, at least it frees the brain to think about other things. I highly recommend everyone invest in good name shaft, LD and HD and learn the differences, a knowledge that will come handy.

This is a change of previous opinion i had posted in the past due to actual facts i learned after i bought my OB 2 shaft.

 

[nobcitypool]

I have half a dozen or so custom cues. I consciously limited them to two pins, 5/16 x 14 and 3/8 x 11. After trying most of the top LD brands, I settled on OB. I bought two each OB-2 for each pin type of cues I have. All the butts weigh the same within +/- .1 ounce so if I decide to play with a different cue, using only OB 2 shafts makes it a quick transition.

Even if you're not planning on English, it is nearly impossible to hit center cue ball. Therefore, there is always some deflection and squirt. Using the LD shaft minimizes that resulting in less misses. Not a big deal on most shots but could make all the difference on a long, sharply struck shot.

I would think most would agree the ideal situation is that the CB goes exactly where you aim it. That reduces the variables you have to factor into the aiming calculation. I've hit with some monster 4.4 ounce maple shafts where the squirt was substantial. Why do I want to try to memorize all the various adjustments for length, speed and tips of English when I have an option to minimize that a bit?

I also like the 11.75 mm diameter.

If you're happy and successful with your 13 mm maple shaft, by all means, keep using it. LD isn't for everyone.

 

[Lesh]

It really is the Indian and not so much the arrow.

The Game is so deep with need of skill (for myself) that I know I will be learning big lessons up to the point where they pry the cue from my cold dead fingers (you damn dirty apes!!!). So I feel kind of smug when people can not see this... it's just my nature and I do not mean any disrespect. I feel like I have noticed something easily where others have utterly missed it. There is more to Cue Sports than a stick and some balls on a table. Again... no disrespect intended, merely opposition to the notion that there is a finite amount of information required to achieve.

"After you learn all that stuff, yeah... its a dry well from there on in."
I know its not intended to sound that way, but it sounds that way.

You reach a certain plateau after you do grasp the basics where you are actually searching for a path to the higher level and so you start questioning everything you are doing. Some people fail to look once more into the well that is their understanding of the basics and go straight to replacing equipment way too soon. It's not a horrendous failure from which there is no redemption, but it is a waste of time and energy to go immediately to equipment before perfecting your understanding of the Game.

Anything that you FEEL helps you in the Game, HELPS YOU in the Game. It can be a different brand name piece of leather on the end of a stick, or the brand of chalk you use.... it can be anything, even (God save us) a Chalk Holder. You know why it improves your game? Because you feel it does.

Everything is Kung Fu.

Lesh

 

[Highmiles]

I played with an original 314 for several years, and switched back to a standard Schon shaft. It was what I was used to, and my play moved back up. To be fair, the feedback from the shaft was what made me switch back. I seldom find a need to hit a shot harder than a lag shot, to get position on the table. On the other hand, I use an OB break shaft on a Lucasi for breaks, which of course, requires maximum force. The Lucasi was cheap because it had a warped shaft, and the OB made for a reasonable cost for a nice break cue.
I think, the bottom line, is one size does not fit all. The OB works better for my break than any other I have tried. The Schon works best for shooting.
In the case of a new player, how will you know what is best for you, until you know how to play? Does an LD allow you to be sloppy or make you concentrate more? What gives you the best experience in becoming a good pool player, so that you will know enough to choose what is best for you?
My guess is that no one will agree, but it will be fun watching people get exorcised over disagreement.

 

[jhanso18]

The thing about LD shafts, is that you don't have to buy an LD shaft to have a lower deflecting shaft. Not to mention the fact, there are SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO many different things that effect deflection it's crazy.

Just a FEW things that effect deflection:

Hardness of tip
quality of shaft wood
taper
ferrule material
lighter/heavier mass at the end of the shaft
More or less Dense mass at the end of the shaft
Your stroke<<< yes the way you strike the ball has an effect on deflection.

All of the people that are heavily in FAVOR OF, OR AGAINST LD Shafts, do have one advantage. They have conditioned themselves mentally that what they are using is better. THIS is probably the biggest advantage in my opinion. If you're good enough to tell the difference between a quality shaft and an LD shaft, you're usually good enough to compensate for it, so what does it matter???

In addition, I have yet to find a single LD shaft that hits good, IMO. They all hit VERY soft by comparison to what I play with, and prefer. I've tried them all, with a TON of different tips, and I just don't care for the way they hit and play.

Not to mention, I still don't believe laminated shafts hold up long term in this climate. I've had this discussion here before, and I'm open to trying one out in this area, but I have yet to see and OB, EDGE, PREDATOR, CUSTOM LAMINATED, or any other I've seen, with the ONE exception SO FAR. The R360 shafts from Cuetec. I'm not sure I've seen one around long enough to tell. I know other folks swear up and down they last in the north, but here in Sioux Falls SD, I don't know a single person who's had an laminated shaft for more than 2-3 years before delaminating, warping, or straight up shattering under a hard break. (seen that twice now, same brand both times, and it was/is a VERY popular break cue.)

I do have a few more things I could say, but I don't want to get any more long winded than I already am.

The thing about ANY CUE AND/OR SHAFT COMBINATION, is that non of it really matters from person to person. It's what works for the individual shooter. If you have something and it's working, don't go looking for a fix by changing up your equipment. 9 times out of 10 if you want to improve, or work on part of your game, the best thing you can do is invest in table time. $400 in table time will get you a FAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAARRRRRRRRRRRRR better break than buying a BK3 for example. But that's the point. The new latest, greatest tech in cues is similar to golf clubs. Sure the new club can add 10-15 yards to your drive, but will you REALLY notice that at your speed, and even if you can will it REALLY help you out that much? Is the new cue going to add a ball or two to your speed???? Probably not, and that's the point.

I will put my cue against ANY cue in the world. I truly believe that my cue plays as good or better than ANY other cue in the world. I can go pick 100 people at random at SBE and at least half will disagree. Maybe none of them will agree, who knows. Fact of the matter is it doesn't matter as long as I'm confident in my gear. That's what REALLY counts.

 

[RBC]

The thing about LD shafts, is that you don't have to buy an LD shaft to have a lower deflecting shaft. Not to mention the fact, there are SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO many different things that effect deflection it's crazy.

Just a FEW things that effect deflection:

Hardness of tip
quality of shaft wood
taper

jhanso18

I'd like to hear your support for these comments.

I tend to disagree with these in particular.

Hardness of tip is mostly irrelevant. At least it isn't until you reach the miss cue point. And, lets face it, if you're at the miss cue point cue ball squirt doesn't really matter.

You would have to define quality of shaft wood for me. Is it more growth rings, or more dense?. They don't necessarily go together. Is it milled for slope of grain or not? Vacuum dried, or air dried? Veneer or solid? Flat sawn or quarter sawn? Just exactly what are these differences that would affect cue ball squirt?

Does the taper really affect cue ball squirt? Well, it certainly can, but not without being significantly different. Which basically means it's something other than the taper that makes the difference.

I'm curious to hear your response.

Royce Bunnell
www.obcues.com

 

[KRJ]

I have an OB Sneaky Pete. I don't usually leave my cues in the car, but awhile back, I left one of my house cues, a Players sneaky, in a cheap case, in my trunk, ON PURPOSE, during a Chicago winter last year. And I took it in occasionally, and let it warm up, and then put it back in the trunk the next day.

So, after a month, no affect on the cue shaft or butt.... just as I expected, I didn't think cold would do all that much to a cue....

Thus, going to work, I hate dragging my cue up to the office, and routinely leave my OB SP in the car.... and on this cold day, when I got to league, I usually let it warm up, and then shoot.... but this day, I said wtf, time to test this shaft out... I even broke with it ice cold, and I normally don't break with this cue. I mean, I'd be out $200 if it snapped in half, but I felt like testing the cue out... so more than 2 years, it plays just fine, and looks like new, and I clean it regularly with no affect on the shaft....

I'm not willing to risk leaving cue in car in the heat, so I do drag it up to the office during the summer

 

[jhanso18]

jhanso18

I'd like to hear your support for these comments.

I tend to disagree with these in particular.

Hardness of tip is mostly irrelevant. At least it isn't until you reach the miss cue point. And, lets face it, if you're at the miss cue point cue ball squirt doesn't really matter.

You would have to define quality of shaft wood for me. Is it more growth rings, or more dense?. They don't necessarily go together. Is it milled for slope of grain or not? Vacuum dried, or air dried? Veneer or solid? Flat sawn or quarter sawn? Just exactly what are these differences that would affect cue ball squirt?

Does the taper really affect cue ball squirt? Well, it certainly can, but not without being significantly different. Which basically means it's something other than the taper that makes the difference.

I'm curious to hear your response.

Royce Bunnell
www.obcues.com

The taper part we agree on. It does have to be a drastically different taper to effect squirt. A straight taper vs. a long pro taper can have some SMALL effect, more than likely not noticeable to most, if anyone. I would also add that typically a smaller diameter shaft will deflect less, but mostly because of the reduction of end mass.

I believe, from both personal playing experience, and a very simple swing rig test. I built a very small swing rig, and a measurable difference in different hardnesses, is what I found. I haven't had time to build a more accurate swing rig, with a neutral release mechanism, and some minor tweaks to my original design. I originally built the rig to test energy transfer, but discovered I need a neutral release to be more accurate. I can show you some pics and my designs in private if you like. It was more of a personal/boredom project, that I'm really not ready to share with the rest of the forum YET.

As to quality of shaft wood, I'm no expert on milling wood, nor builder of cues. I'm not experienced in what goes into making/picking good quality wood vs. bad, but I know that better wood will transfer more energy, and that difference in energy transfer has to have an effect of some kind. Whether noticeable with the naked eye who knows. What I do know is high end builders throw away a TON of wood that is not up to their standards for a reason. Also I think there is a reason you are using laminated shafts vs traditional shafts for a reason. I believe its to make a more consistent, higher quality product, and avoid throwing out a lot of waste shaft wood, but I could be wrong. I would be interested to know the actual logic behind it. (Mostly because I like to know everything about everything. I'm always trying to learn more...)

Anyway, I also believe that you have some thoughts and experiences that probably answer the questions that you asked me about, and I would love to hear more of your input. I

Thanks,

 

[jhanso18]

I have an OB Sneaky Pete. I don't usually leave my cues in the car, but awhile back, I left one of my house cues, a Players sneaky, in a cheap case, in my trunk, ON PURPOSE, during a Chicago winter last year. And I took it in occasionally, and let it warm up, and then put it back in the trunk the next day.

So, after a month, no affect on the cue shaft or butt.... just as I expected, I didn't think cold would do all that much to a cue....

Thus, going to work, I hate dragging my cue up to the office, and routinely leave my OB SP in the car.... and on this cold day, when I got to league, I usually let it warm up, and then shoot.... but this day, I said wtf, time to test this shaft out... I even broke with it ice cold, and I normally don't break with this cue. I mean, I'd be out $200 if it snapped in half, but I felt like testing the cue out... so more than 2 years, it plays just fine, and looks like new, and I clean it regularly with no affect on the shaft....

I'm not willing to risk leaving cue in car in the heat, so I do drag it up to the office during the summer

I'm not saying they laminated shafts can't last, but I haven't seen one yet. I would love to see them hold up here. I would also add that around here I see predator 10-1 over OB or Jacoby, or anything else. I have seen issues with OB and Jacoby, and every time the customer was taken care of from what I saw.

The other thing I would add, is I don't know how well those people take care of their cues around here. I just haven't seen good things first hand, I know others have experienced different things, but I have no desire to try out a laminated shaft at this time.


All the best, and I hope it holds up. I like OB products. They are better looking, and seem to be the best offering of the LD product world. PLUS they are USA made, which is also very cool!

 

[Banks]

I used one for a while and liked it. I'm more comfortable using a standard shaft now.

As for the argument that it improves your game because it's more advanced.. I don't do anything at work that requires more technology than a basic computer and a Bic pen. I didn't own an electric screwdriver for a long time. I also drove a little 3-banger for a long time. Just because there's "better" technology out there does not necessarily mean that it's what you need.

Give me a good bar cue with a decent tip and I'm good to go. I haven't even had the dings taken out or shaft cleaned since I had mine cut over a year ago. Happy as a clam, I tell ya.

 

[CreeDo]

Should a player spend his money on lessons? Absolutely.
Is spending money on an LD shaft a waste, or barking up the wrong tree? Nope.

LD vs. no LD is a decision you should make at the start of your pool career.
I feel lucky to have learned about it after a year or two, but I wish I was aware from day 1.

You don't want to make the choice after playing for several years.
It will slow down your development as a pool player if you shoot for a long time with one,
then switch to the other.

So, if you are AWARE of the choice at the beginning of your pool career,
then you can make the intelligent and sane choice to pick one, and then stick with it for life.
That will give you consistency.

If your choice is "I'm going with LD for life" then yes, you need to buy that LD shaft right now.
Even if you're an APA 2.
Because the time you spend learning how to aim with the high deflection shaft will be wasted,
you're just going to have to unlearn it. Then re-learn it with the LD shaft you plan on using later.

Don't put a roadblock in your own learning curve. Just spend the 200 freaking bucks
(that's nothing to get into a new sport), attach it to your beginners
Players or Action cue or whatever, and then you can 100% remove any concern about
have to learn something, then unlearn it, then relearn it.

 

[RBC]

The taper part we agree on. It does have to be a drastically different taper to effect squirt. A straight taper vs. a long pro taper can have some SMALL effect, more than likely not noticeable to most, if anyone. I would also add that typically a smaller diameter shaft will deflect less, but mostly because of the reduction of end mass.

I believe, from both personal playing experience, and a very simple swing rig test. I built a very small swing rig, and a measurable difference in different hardnesses, is what I found. I haven't had time to build a more accurate swing rig, with a neutral release mechanism, and some minor tweaks to my original design. I originally built the rig to test energy transfer, but discovered I need a neutral release to be more accurate. I can show you some pics and my designs in private if you like. It was more of a personal/boredom project, that I'm really not ready to share with the rest of the forum YET.

As to quality of shaft wood, I'm no expert on milling wood, nor builder of cues. I'm not experienced in what goes into making/picking good quality wood vs. bad, but I know that better wood will transfer more energy, and that difference in energy transfer has to have an effect of some kind. Whether noticeable with the naked eye who knows. What I do know is high end builders throw away a TON of wood that is not up to their standards for a reason. Also I think there is a reason you are using laminated shafts vs traditional shafts for a reason. I believe its to make a more consistent, higher quality product, and avoid throwing out a lot of waste shaft wood, but I could be wrong. I would be interested to know the actual logic behind it. (Mostly because I like to know everything about everything. I'm always trying to learn more...)

Anyway, I also believe that you have some thoughts and experiences that probably answer the questions that you asked me about, and I would love to hear more of your input. I

Thanks,

jhanso18

Thanks for the reply.

I do already have what I believe to be the right answers to these questions. I find them to be in conflict with some of your statements, which is why I asked for more justification.

Here's my position, and it's based on the scientific and statistical information I've gathered, experienced and read over the years.

Cue ball squirt is the result of the difference between "Effective" tip end mass and the mass of the cue ball when the cue ball is struck off center. Since the cue ball mass is pretty much a constant, changing the Effective tip end mass is the only alterable component.

Tip end mass is a simple thing to measure. Basically, you take the specific gravity of the individual materials, account for the volume of each, and you can come up with the tip end mass. More importantly, you can come up with the tip end mass per inch starting at the tip end of the cue shaft. This is important.

Effective tip end mass is another story. Basically, it's the tip end mass along with a dynamic component added to it. The dynamic part comes from the added stiffness of the cue shaft and any connected mass that may be touching the portion of the cue shaft that bends during the tip to ball contact. Keep in mind that only those things that move while the tip is in contact with the ball matter. Once the cue ball leaves the tip it's on it's own.

The trouble is that many people, and I think you fall into this category, feel that the stiffness of the cue shaft plays a large enough role to be noticeable. Unfortunately it doesn't. It does make a difference, but not enough to be relevant.

So, primarily, the tip end mass is the driving factor in cue ball squirt. I mentioned that taper could make a difference, but only when it is quite a bit different. The reason for this is because, when it's quite a bit different it changes the tip end mass.

All the rest of it is pretty much just window dressing.

I've seen dozens of different cue shafts designs come and go. Many of them claim all kinds of things that have to do with taper, shaft wood, stiffness, etc. All of them have much more cue ball squirt than what you would think after listening to the creators talk about them. And they are all gone as well.

Don't get me wrong, there are some really good LD cue shafts out there. Certainly more than there used to be. But there are way more that claim to be LD than really are. Without any kind of industry standard or regulation, anyone can claim their cue shafts are LD, whether they really are or not.

So with regards to my questions. Tip end mass is pretty much where it's at. The other things do have an effect, but not enough to even notice.

Royce

 

[jburkm002]

"Don't get me wrong, there are some really good LD cue shafts out there. Certainly more than there used to be. But there are way more that claim to be LD than really are. Without any kind of industry standard or regulation, anyone can claim their cue shafts are LD, whether they really are or not."

Are there industry standards? All I ever see is a shaft called LD. What is that compared to? Also if LD shafts increase accuracy. Why in most cases are they not sold as the standard with the cues? Why are they usually sold separately at a much higher price? If the idea is to sell the best performing cue.

 

[jhanso18]

jhanso18

Thanks for the reply.

I do already have what I believe to be the right answers to these questions. I find them to be in conflict with some of your statements, which is why I asked for more justification.

Here's my position, and it's based on the scientific and statistical information I've gathered, experienced and read over the years.

Cue ball squirt is the result of the difference between "Effective" tip end mass and the mass of the cue ball when the cue ball is struck off center. Since the cue ball mass is pretty much a constant, changing the Effective tip end mass is the only alterable component.

Tip end mass is a simple thing to measure. Basically, you take the specific gravity of the individual materials, account for the volume of each, and you can come up with the tip end mass. More importantly, you can come up with the tip end mass per inch starting at the tip end of the cue shaft. This is important.

Effective tip end mass is another story. Basically, it's the tip end mass along with a dynamic component added to it. The dynamic part comes from the added stiffness of the cue shaft and any connected mass that may be touching the portion of the cue shaft that bends during the tip to ball contact. Keep in mind that only those things that move while the tip is in contact with the ball matter. Once the cue ball leaves the tip it's on it's own.

The trouble is that many people, and I think you fall into this category, feel that the stiffness of the cue shaft plays a large enough role to be noticeable. Unfortunately it doesn't. It does make a difference, but not enough to be relevant.

So, primarily, the tip end mass is the driving factor in cue ball squirt. I mentioned that taper could make a difference, but only when it is quite a bit different. The reason for this is because, when it's quite a bit different it changes the tip end mass.

All the rest of it is pretty much just window dressing.

I've seen dozens of different cue shafts designs come and go. Many of them claim all kinds of things that have to do with taper, shaft wood, stiffness, etc. All of them have much more cue ball squirt than what you would think after listening to the creators talk about them. And they are all gone as well.

Don't get me wrong, there are some really good LD cue shafts out there. Certainly more than there used to be. But there are way more that claim to be LD than really are. Without any kind of industry standard or regulation, anyone can claim their cue shafts are LD, whether they really are or not.

So with regards to my questions. Tip end mass is pretty much where it's at. The other things do have an effect, but not enough to even notice.

Royce

I think were actually on the same page Royce. I agree with all you've stated. The largest single factor on deflection is end mass of the shaft. MOST other factors have such a small difference it's unnoticeable. However, you add up 3 or 4 or 5 and they can make a difference. I'm guessing you and I would agree on most things, but my knowledge base is not nearly as wide as yours. If I ever make it to your neck of the woods, I'd love to buy you a few cold ones and pick your brain.

Most of what I've learned on construction techniques is from Keith, and most of what I've learned about deflection is a 50/50 between Keith, and my own research. I still have A LOT to learn, IMO.

Anyway, I love our exchanges here. You are a wealth of knowledge, thanks for sharing. I wish more industry members would follow your example of being an active contributing member!!!!

Thanks again, and all the best,

 

[JoeyInCali]

jhanso18

Thanks for the reply.

I do already have what I believe to be the right answers to these questions. I find them to be in conflict with some of your statements, which is why I asked for more justification.

Here's my position, and it's based on the scientific and statistical information I've gathered, experienced and read over the years.

Cue ball squirt is the result of the difference between "Effective" tip end mass and the mass of the cue ball when the cue ball is struck off center. Since the cue ball mass is pretty much a constant, changing the Effective tip end mass is the only alterable component.

Tip end mass is a simple thing to measure. Basically, you take the specific gravity of the individual materials, account for the volume of each, and you can come up with the tip end mass. More importantly, you can come up with the tip end mass per inch starting at the tip end of the cue shaft. This is important.

Effective tip end mass is another story. Basically, it's the tip end mass along with a dynamic component added to it. The dynamic part comes from the added stiffness of the cue shaft and any connected mass that may be touching the portion of the cue shaft that bends during the tip to ball contact. Keep in mind that only those things that move while the tip is in contact with the ball matter. Once the cue ball leaves the tip it's on it's own.

The trouble is that many people, and I think you fall into this category, feel that the stiffness of the cue shaft plays a large enough role to be noticeable. Unfortunately it doesn't. It does make a difference, but not enough to be relevant.

So, primarily, the tip end mass is the driving factor in cue ball squirt. I mentioned that taper could make a difference, but only when it is quite a bit different. The reason for this is because, when it's quite a bit different it changes the tip end mass.

All the rest of it is pretty much just window dressing.

I've seen dozens of different cue shafts designs come and go. Many of them claim all kinds of things that have to do with taper, shaft wood, stiffness, etc. All of them have much more cue ball squirt than what you would think after listening to the creators talk about them. And they are all gone as well.

Don't get me wrong, there are some really good LD cue shafts out there. Certainly more than there used to be. But there are way more that claim to be LD than really are. Without any kind of industry standard or regulation, anyone can claim their cue shafts are LD, whether they really are or not.

So with regards to my questions. Tip end mass is pretty much where it's at. The other things do have an effect, but not enough to even notice.

Royce

I could be wrong in this but, if the first 5 inches does not weigh less than regular maple , it's not LD.

 

[jhanso18]

I could be wrong in this but, if the first 5 inches does not weigh less than regular maple , it's not LD.

I'm honestly not sure. Ask 10 people, get 13 different answers I'm sure. One question for you (or anyone) though. Does all maple weigh exactly the same?

But more to the point, everyone and their mom has an LD shaft. I'm going to tell Keith to start turning down broom handles, and we'll call them clean sweep shafts... Keith has a certain way of doing his own spin on LD if the customer wants it. We jokingly call them Negative deflection shafts. I once told a guy that the cue ball will squirt the opposite way than a regular shaft because of the way it was built. With out missing a beat he asked me what the advantages of that were...

I will always maintain that the best cue is the one you've already hit a million balls with. Anything will set your game back, before it goes forward...

 

[Cdryden]

I know i am gonna get beat up and bashed over this one but here it goes.

I was reasding a thread yesterday and a fairly new player was asking about wheather or not to buy a low end playing cue and add an LD shaft as his buget was about 300-400 dollars.

I asked him have you ever played with an LD shaft and his answer was no.

My suggestion was take his buget and buy a decent player , Joss , McDermott, Pechaur or something along these lines , find a cue he liked and that fit his playing style and worry about adding an LD shaft later if he just had to have one

For me being a solid maple shaft guy , My personal opinion are LD Shafts are the best gimmick pool cue manufactures have come up with to seperate you from your money.

I have yet played with an LD shaft that i liked better than a solid maple shaft.

It seems new players and even some experinced players are all caught up in the newest gaget craze when it comes to pool technology.

Pool skill does not come your equipment , yes equipment plays a small part but a very small part , you take a player of Efren Reyes , Earl Strickland Caliber , they will beat you to death with a mop handle no matter if you have a 10K blackboar in your hand . with seperate LD shafts for every shot like a bag of golf clubs.

I think many players spend too much time worrying about the equipment and too little time working on the things that matter , fundamentals , stroke , and practice

This is Just my Opinion

Best of Rolls

My opinion is pretty much in line with yours. But to be fair I haven't played extensively with a LD shaft. I don't think it is fair to dismiss something until you have really gave it a shot.
That being said, I see no need for me to switch to one either. I have found that my money was better spent on lessons from a pro instructor to improve my stroke than spending money on a piece of wood and expect that to fix the problem for me.

 

[JoeyInCali]

I'm honestly not sure. Ask 10 people, get 13 different answers I'm sure. One question for you though. Does all maple weigh exactly the same?

No, but the difference would be very little for that area.

 

[Maniac]

Also if LD shafts increase accuracy. Why in most cases are they not sold as the standard with the cues?

They don't increase accuracy...they decrease cue ball deflection. It is entirely up to the individual shooter how accurate the shot will be.

The premise of LD shafts is to not aim as far away from the contact point when using english (to adjust for swerve). How accurate the shooter can shoot this shot varies from people to people, because of levels of skill.

Maniac