Has anybody ever tried to play with- or make a tip like this?

Tip

Don't have a lathe or the full use of my right arm at the moment, otherwise I'd try it myself. I don't expect it to be anything revolutionary, but it's an interesting idea.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HYO0bVoPKVw

If you pay for the shipping both ways I will do this to a tip for you N/C just like in the video.

No haven't tried this, I don't think its practical in less if you are hitting center of cue ball every shot.
I think the edges of the tip will compress or mushroom out, ( but that's just a guess.

.
 
It's an interesting concept, and I've thought about aspects of concave tip sections previously. Even shaped concave edges to see if I could hit further off center, but rough experiments showed no benefit.

Some things to consider:

By shaping the center area of the tip in this concave shape, if one strokes say 2mm off CCB, it may work out that the tip actually contacts the CB at CCB.... hence, one might presume no spin.

But, in pivoting to the 2mm offset, the cue's travel direction will be different to the direction from bridge V to CCB, so the CB will travel to the right of the original aim and apply some, but not as much as usual spin, which with create some squirt to the left.

The degree to which this does this I'm not sure, but in effect, it will be a similar effect to playing with a shorter bridge length than one is used to.... because...

If one bridges within a couple of inches of their cue's effective pivot point for a shot, the line of CB travel remains almost identical if you strike the CB a couple of mm either side of CCB, as the change in cue direction via the pivot to offset, is almost identical to the resultant squirt angle. (Which is basically the definition of a pivot point.) So in many situations, this concave method adds a variable, rather than reducing one.

Keep in mind that this pivot is not about using aim then pivot methods to apply spin, it's the fact that hitting off center by accident, is actually a pivot (though it gets more complicated if one swipes severely or shifts the bridge during the stroke).

If one bridges considerably shorter than their effective pivot point, then a 2mm offset to the right of CCB will push the CB to the right significantly, which is what this concave method should also achieve.

Some think that unintended side leading to unintended throw is the biggest issue in aiming. I do not. There is much more variation in CB travel direction from inaccurate stroking when one bridges at a considerable distance from the effective pivot point for a shot.

Another thing to consider is that this concave method would interfere with one's judgement of applying gearing outside english, requiring larger offsets than usual.

There is the odd shot where spin induced throw is the main concern. e.g. A long straight shot with CB say 6 inches from the OB. In this range of shot, such a tip may be advantageous.

Don't take this as gospel, just thinking aloud and planting some seeds for thought.

Colin
 
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Kevin Varney used to do a similar treatment on break tips. He would make a small concave/dished out impression on phenolic tips. He would also use the corner of a razor blade and score rings around the tip to hold chalk.
 
Yes, I made one like that 30 + years ago. It played bad. I think the CB was binding when hit with it. Johnnyt
 
Don't have a lathe or the full use of my right arm at the moment, otherwise I'd try it myself. I don't expect it to be anything revolutionary, but it's an interesting idea.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HYO0bVoPKVw

I have one on my break cue. No issues & I use low outside & inside on many of my not head on breaks.

I think it makes perfect sense for those that play trying to hit center CB for most of their shots.

I understand what Colin is saying but I think that what he's talking about might only apply for slight english if one uses an incorrect perception. I think once one get's past say 4 mm of offset it plays normally. At least that seems to be what I get out of mine, but like Dennis Miller, I could be wrong.

I can see where it might play 'mushy' or 'sticky' if done on a soft tip. I did it to my hard break tip only.

Best 2 You & All.
 
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If one hits a center ball with this tip, won't the missing mass of the tip affect the cueball's speed?

Also, that tip is reducing the amount of contact area between the cb and tip, when using side.. (see question, above)

Why do it? If it fixed a real problem, I'm all for it, but if it ADDS more problems, why do it?


Jeff Livingston
 
Don't have a lathe or the full use of my right arm at the moment, otherwise I'd try it myself. I don't expect it to be anything revolutionary, but it's an interesting idea.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HYO0bVoPKVw

You don't need a lathe. All you need is the drill bit.

I did my hard leather break tip entirely by hand.

Sanded the center flat so the bit point would 'grap' & cut at center without sliding to the side.

When I say by hand, I mean with no drill. I turn it 'by hand'.

It was easy.

Best 2 Ya.
 
If one hits a center ball with this tip, won't the missing mass of the tip affect the cueball's speed?

Also, that tip is reducing the amount of contact area between the cb and tip, when using side.. (see question, above)

Why do it? If it fixed a real problem, I'm all for it, but if it ADDS more problems, why do it?


Jeff Livingston

I think it's a good idea for a break cue if one hits a touch off center when adding power. I think it negates or reduces unwanted spin if one is off for that small amount.

Also I think it might be beneficial for those that try to play predominantly trying to hit center ball by doing the same thing for that off center hit.

Or like 'Ralph' said just stop at the Flat Center.

Best to You & All.
 
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I posted this on the YouTube video;

I have one question. If you are removing the center portion of the tip, so that unwanted grip might be eliminated from a off-center hit, does the round dimpled contour in the tip, from using the ball's surface to form the indent, create a problem in an off center hit from the two non-concentric surfaces.
 
I take the opposite point of view.
I want my break tip dime-shaped, like my playing cue.
...this focuses the energy....flat-shaped dissipates it.

If you want to knock someone out, you don't slap, you punch.

There is no substitute for hitting center ball if you're breaking hard.
 
I take the opposite point of view.
I want my break tip dime-shaped, like my playing cue.
...this focuses the energy....flat-shaped dissipates it.

If you want to knock someone out, you don't slap, you punch.

There is no substitute for hitting center ball if you're breaking hard.

Well, you have a point.

nyah,

Jeff Livingston
 
I think it's a good idea for a break cue if one hits a touch off center when adding power. I think it negates or reduces unwanted spin if one is off for that small amount.

Also I think it might be beneficial for those that try to play predominantly trying to hit center ball by doing the same thing for that off center hit.

Or like 'Ralph' said just stop at the Flat Center.

Best to You & All.

This sounds like a job for Dave's high speed camera work.

Jeff Livingston
 
Look at the chalk mark on the CB after breaking.
Dime shaped tips on your break cue flatten a lot.
.

I use original hard Mooris from the middle 90s...seldom need shaping.

But the best break tip I ever had came with my BK-First Edition...
...McCarty put a 15 mm tip in a vice for four days
 
Tried both. Circular grooves on phenolic tip did seem to hold chalk better, but eventually switched to Samsara which holds chalk just fine. Did the center drilled hole, without the concave ball sanding, but didn't work for me. Had to remove tip because the hole in tip was messing with my head.

Love trying new things though... keep 'em coming
 
Well if one is going to always hit center ball & not ever be 1 mm off center...

just get a Diamond Hard Cubic Zurconium in a round cut & mount it with the point face out.

The hall might make you use your own cue ball when you break though.

Think about the ridge around that hole. If one is off center that small amount then it is similar to hitting on the center point of a 'dime' radius & you get no spin from the center of the tip hitting off center.

If one is perfect in their tip placement when breaking then certainly there is no need or use for it.

There is confidence & then there is reason & common sense regarding perfection.

Best 2 All.
 
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