Prather is prolly next to build my full splice, or dzuricky since gilbert wont answer my emails and drexler has had my deposit for 3 months and hasnt started the cue.
Full splice lost art
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DeeDeeCues
Well-known member
Cute.
How does a jump break cue with a screw where the forearm meets the handle qualify as a full-splice cue ????
Doesn't that make it a short-splice ?
And add to the coring debate, the last ebony full-splice blank I got from Davis had a laminated maple core dowel at the bottom ( ebony part ).
Doesn't that make it a short-splice ?
And add to the coring debate, the last ebony full-splice blank I got from Davis had a laminated maple core dowel at the bottom ( ebony part ).
DeeDeeCues
Well-known member
He also thinks that his player is one piece of coco...or that is what I get out of his description. Seems like it'd be a heavy cue and a waste of coco to put it under the wrap...between rings...
DeeDeeCues
Well-known member
What exactly did you expect when you started this thread? You have a handful of posts during the two years you have been here and you haven't given any indication that you know what you are talking about. Despite that, you are arguing with cuemakers and people who have been around a lot of cue making for a long time.
I'm not surprised that a cuemaker with a golden reputation isn't calling you back.
I’m by no means an expert but the weirdest take away in this thread for me is that some people think coring is a shortcut. It’s been nothing but a process for me.
And you think bob will entertain your call ??
Eh ASScue ??
Totally agree but how they play is not guarantee'd to be good. Too many other factors which you know well yourself.
DeeDeeCues
Well-known member
100%
This discussion is so weird, OP making a broad generalization on a flawed initial premise. Pretty sure the Gilbert J/B never started life as a full splice, pretty sure it was always built as a short splice forearm that screws into the handle section. Even if that wasn't the case and it started life as a full splice, as soon as it was cut it instantly became the equivalent of a short splice...since that's leaves the forearm constructed exactly the same in either case.
Now, perhaps the OP misspoke or spoke out of ignorance on the topic and is really trying to refer to a properly spliced cue as opposed to inlayed points? That would at least actually apply to the cue in question. But still, to make a broad assumption about feel and playability based on a sample size of one is quite the leap.
For what it's worth, I've owned them all. Full splice, short splice, inlayed points, merry widows, most cored, at least 1 or 2 non-cored. I can make no such generalizations based on my experiences.
Now, perhaps the OP misspoke or spoke out of ignorance on the topic and is really trying to refer to a properly spliced cue as opposed to inlayed points? That would at least actually apply to the cue in question. But still, to make a broad assumption about feel and playability based on a sample size of one is quite the leap.
For what it's worth, I've owned them all. Full splice, short splice, inlayed points, merry widows, most cored, at least 1 or 2 non-cored. I can make no such generalizations based on my experiences.
This was done on AZBilliards 10 or so years ago. I believe 10 different style of cues were sent to various members to see if they could tell the difference. All the cues were covered so the participants could not identify anything about them. I slightly remember the results but have not been able to find the posts. Does anyone remember?
if the handle was ebony, it was probably cored to balance and reduce the weight.
You’re always a one-way street on this topic….conversely, give a good player a better cue, and he’ll play at a higher level.
This guy is one of those
Nothing hits like an ivory joint cue types
Nothing hits like an ivory joint cue types
I don't think that is true at all....but I also can't tell if you're arguing for or against that statement, haha.
I guess maybe it depends on how you define "better". But I don't think if you gave Shane an amazingly crafted Szamboti, Balabushka, or similar cue most people would classify as "better" than his Cuetec, that he would actually play any better.
I think the modern quality production cue is plenty good to play truly top level pool. Basic butt, good carbon or wood low deflection shaft, and you're really set for top-level play. Pre LD/Carbon era maybe you'd have a little more of a point but even then I'm not sure that argument holds water.
Now, I'm not talking about a comparison to an absolute POS cue....there is a minimum level a cue needs to meet and then there are personal preferences on top of that. But I think most players of any level can play their best game with something solidly sub-$1k and what I would call a decent cue.
Lee Trevino was told about a new putter….so he putted with it for a while…went into the pro shop and bought one.
When he went back to the motel, he raised the putter over his head and smashed it on the carpet on the heel, changing the angle slightly…..
……that was the putter that put him in the hall of fame.
Byron Nelson had the same set of clubs for years….when they came out with the idea of swing weighting, they tested Byron’s set and found that it was bang-on except for either the four or the eight iron…Byron said he never could find one that suited him.
I remember when someone did this but it was with cue joints. I think they covered the joints with masking tape. And, yeah. Nobody got it right.
And
And stabilize it. My previous blank warped.
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It's a proven fact in my head that cues with white joints hit better than all the other joint colors combined.