I am using a larger lathe, but what I did is I made a Delrin sleeve with the OD slipping into the through-tube of the lathe and the ID of the sleeve tapered the same as my butt taper. Even if the butt is larger or smaller (due to finish variance or whatever), the sleeve slips down and becomes tight at one point on the cue.
Then I added a single layer of masking tape to the OD of my sleeve, and it fits nicely in the lathe tube with no slop.
(NOTE: I could not use a back side chuck if I wanted to, because my headstock is longer than the cue butt when the joint is in the collet closer)
Then I use the Hardinge collet closer, with a plastic bushing, and grab my steel joint collar close to the closer, and bore and thread for my pin.
This system works well for me, and it eliminates the need for a backside chuck. My back-end run out is less than 0.003, or about the same as a low-cost 3-jaw chuck. Since that potential 0.003 run out is ~20 inches from my joint, it is essentially zero at the pin anyway. (so if you get a back side chuck, don't go crazy for super-accuracy!)
Cost was an hour of labor.
Then I added a single layer of masking tape to the OD of my sleeve, and it fits nicely in the lathe tube with no slop.
(NOTE: I could not use a back side chuck if I wanted to, because my headstock is longer than the cue butt when the joint is in the collet closer)
Then I use the Hardinge collet closer, with a plastic bushing, and grab my steel joint collar close to the closer, and bore and thread for my pin.
This system works well for me, and it eliminates the need for a backside chuck. My back-end run out is less than 0.003, or about the same as a low-cost 3-jaw chuck. Since that potential 0.003 run out is ~20 inches from my joint, it is essentially zero at the pin anyway. (so if you get a back side chuck, don't go crazy for super-accuracy!)
Cost was an hour of labor.