Draw stroke: tip or shaft?

obr

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I'm curious about whether the tip or the shaft has a greater effect in the ability to draw the CB. Assuming one's stroke is fine and the tip holds chalk, does the tip really play a huge role in drawing the CB... i.e. do some tips draw better than others?

I'm asking because right now I'm using a certain layered tip and while drawing the CB is possible, it's not as easy as I'd like. Is there a difference between layered vs. non-layered tips in terms of putting action on the CB?
 
I'm curious about whether the tip or the shaft has a greater effect in the ability to draw the CB. Assuming one's stroke is fine and the tip holds chalk, does the tip really play a huge role in drawing the CB... i.e. do some tips draw better than others?

I'm asking because right now I'm using a certain layered tip and while drawing the CB is possible, it's not as easy as I'd like. Is there a difference between layered vs. non-layered tips in terms of putting action on the CB?

I think the answer is in your stroke. Sure, you gotta have a tip but its all in your stroke.
 
I'd ask the instructor,or Scott Lee

ask the instructor- section will give you a good answer or ask Scott Lee.mark
 
Follow through and stay down. Don't "punch" or "poke" at the CB. Make sure to follow all the way through, maybe even exagerate it a little bit (assuming you have the room to do so). A good tip and shaft can help, but it's all in the stroke. "Indian, not arrow".
 
Like Cleary says, your stroke has to be true to get the draw. However, there are "dud" tips that make drawing the ball seem impossible. I find it most often in one piece tips but at the same time I find the best tips in one piece tips. Not too often I get "dud" layered tips. That said, specific brands make the major difference. Layered tips I find to be good are Moori, Kamui, the Tiger line, Hercules Balibushka(not the herculesII), superpro, & talisman. I have tried lots of others but nothing really was all that good. A new tip that's coming out if not already is the Hirano. It's 4 layers of pigskin & those tips are the shizzle. Miki Mezz gave me a few to test & I like them....a lot.
 
I just bought a new jacoby with a everest tip on it, and i found i can draw the ball much easier, and with more control with a lepro. I had a couple of more people to hit with it and they also agreed. I have tried many tips since i started back playing and have found i like the lepro and triangle better than any i tried. Of course, back when i played before, i think the choice was a elkmaster and then the lepro came along later.
 
I'm curious about whether the tip or the shaft has a greater effect in the ability to draw the CB. Assuming one's stroke is fine and the tip holds chalk, does the tip really play a huge role in drawing the CB... i.e. do some tips draw better than others?
First of all, your bolded statement is quite bold. If one's stroke is truly fine, and if the tip really is holding chalking well, the tip type or hardness shouldn't make any significant difference, IMO. For info and resources on this topic, see:

Concerning the shaft, it should also not make a significant difference. For info and resources on this topic, see:

A good draw shot comes from good draw shot technique. For info and resources on this topic, see:

Check out the links. There is some good info there.

Regards,
Dave
 
I'm curious about whether the tip or the shaft has a greater effect in the ability to draw the CB. Assuming one's stroke is fine and the tip holds chalk, does the tip really play a huge role in drawing the CB... i.e. do some tips draw better than others?

I'm asking because right now I'm using a certain layered tip and while drawing the CB is possible, it's not as easy as I'd like. Is there a difference between layered vs. non-layered tips in terms of putting action on the CB?

You have already isolated that the stroke is good and primary factor. To answer your question is it then the tip or shaft? In my opinion it is the tip. You can have a great shaft but with a bad tip nothing will happen. That is why the game really changed when the leather tip was installed on a cue.

It is easy to figure out. Take a cue with 2 shafts and use different tips on each and then do the test.
 
While the stroke and shaft play a part, the amount of grip varies from tip to tip.
I shot two videos doing a power draw shot, the one I did last year was with a Moori S and this one linked here was with a Tiger S, I felt I had to really punch the shot with the Tiger I could just feel less bite. Even though I got about two feet more draw from the tiger I put that down to new cloth.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mrHQZkXr_Zo
 
First of all, your bolded statement is quite bold. If one's stroke is truly fine, and if the tip really is holding chalking well, the tip type or hardness shouldn't make any significant difference, IMO. For info and resources on this topic, see:

Concerning the shaft, it should also not make a significant difference. For info and resources on this topic, see:

A good draw shot comes from good draw shot technique. For info and resources on this topic, see:

Check out the links. There is some good info there.

Regards,
Dave

Great links, thanks Dave!
 
First of all, your bolded statement is quite bold. If one's stroke is truly fine, and if the tip really is holding chalking well, the tip type or hardness shouldn't make any significant difference, IMO. For info and resources on this topic, see:

Concerning the shaft, it should also not make a significant difference. For info and resources on this topic, see:

A good draw shot comes from good draw shot technique. For info and resources on this topic, see:

Check out the links. There is some good info there.
Great links, thanks Dave!
Thanks ... and you're welcome. I aim to squerve. ;)

I meant to add the following:
If you think the tip and shaft make a big difference, then they will make a big difference. The mind is a powerful thing.

Regards,
Dave
 
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Stroke an don't poke and blue diamond chalk seem to help me. :thumbup:
 
Stroke

I use to be able to draw the cue ball effortlessly w/ my Predator cue a few years back. Then I went down the road of custom cues and couldn't draw a lick, until I found my stroke. Now I can use any cue and draw just fine. So yes, a shaft can help you, and of course tips can make a difference too, but it all comes down to you and your stroke.
 
I play with a triangle tip and it draws great,so does a kamui.If your stroke is decent you can can draw the cb with ease whether your using a $2 tip or a $30 tip. It is probably your stroke. I can draw the cb with my break cue with a phenolic tip
 
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For me, I find I can play draw shots with alot less effort with a LD shaft compared to my Maple shaft. I had been using Maple for about 3-3.5 years and could draw quite well. On longer draw shots, I had to put a hell of alot more effort in to achieve this, and at times with me putting as much effort as I can in, I wouldnt always get where I want. Now with an LD shaft, I can draw long shots with alot more ease and seems to be more success.

I also use Kamui Medium tips, and have to say, best there is in my opinion. Moori's are good for 1st month, then go hard, Tiger Snipers are good, but tend to mushroom a lot. Kamui is best all rounder (Ive also tried an Everest, then bit it off as I didnt like it at all). All personal preference.

So in answer to the OP, a good tip you are comfortable with with a good stroke and shaft should help...my preference now is Kamui Medium (as always) with an OB1 shaft
 
I'm curious about whether the tip or the shaft has a greater effect in the ability to draw the CB. Assuming one's stroke is fine and the tip holds chalk, does the tip really play a huge role in drawing the CB... i.e. do some tips draw better than others? [...]

As Dave has explained, no.

Every day in every pool room across the world players will claim, in many languages, that ...this soft tip, this Le Pro, this Moori, this Kamui black super soft, this everest, layered tips, this hard tip, ...gets more action or draws the ball better...

It's self delusional gobblygook...
 
....He once bet his dad he could shoot a spot shot, and have the cb hit the rail at least even with the ob, but not past it, shooting from the kitchen. He did it first try!
I doubt that he did this with a full-sized cue ball unless he was shooting with a lot of elevation.

The shot, to make sure we are talking about the same thing: object ball on the spot, cue ball in the kitchen, a ball frozen to the side rail at the second diamond on the same side of the table as the cue ball. You have to make the spot shot and have the cue ball hit above the center of the ball on the cushion.

The easiest way to gaff the shot is with a small cue ball.
 
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