finishing box

Chains

After much research, I have decided to build mine with chains. I got many requests to build others as well. For all of you that contacted me, this is my game plan. I will build one for myself first and make sure it works perfectly before I would even consider building one for someone else. Once mine is done and all the bugs worked out, I will post pictures and would be willing to build others at that time. Thank you all for your requests and you can contact me again if you have any questions. Again, I just refuse to build/sell anything unless I know it is a great product. Thanks for your patience. Russ
 
bhambomber said:
does anyone make a finishing box that will turn 2 butts and 2 shafts? nothing fancy and doesnt have to be enclosed. thanks

This is what I am looking for but I want it with the sprocket and chain instead of belts.


sprayrack1.jpg
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I would think you could get some cheap sprockets for all the shafts, some inexpensive chain...maybe improvise a few tensioners in between and that should work....
 
Finish booth

Now I am on the lookout for something just like this...
Please let me know if anyone has one for sale.
Thanks,
Larry
 
Well, mine is not quite as ghetto as a string or rubber band that you twist, but it serves the purpose for me for now.

The door in the second picture looks warped, but it's not - just camera effects.
Gary
 

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GEBrown said:
Well, mine is not quite as ghetto as a string or rubber band that you twist, but it serves the purpose for me for now.

Gary
Click to expand...

Not wanting to make you feel badly but actually, this is a pretty bad design for more than one reason. 1. You can't spray in it without the fear of either blowing up your house or a slow death from nerve system damage or emphysema and 2., You want a smooth, fairly heavy coats of finish put on the cue so that there is a smooth and unblemished film when finished and dry as possibly can be attained. For this reason the cues need to revolved horizontally and spun rather slowly ( 30-150 rpm) until a little bit dry so that the finish will not run. Hanging and spinning vertically may make applying finish consistent but does not help at all from running and getting curtains in the finish as it will be ever more thicker the farther you get from the joint. You just can't get around Newton's law about gravity.

Dick
 
> Is there the possibility that lubrication from a chain-drive setup could cause finish contamination? Tommy D.
 
rhncue said:
Not wanting to make you feel badly but actually, this is a pretty bad design for more than one reason. 1. You can't spray in it without the fear of either blowing up your house or a slow death from nerve system damage or emphysema and 2., You want a smooth, fairly heavy coats of finish put on the cue so that there is a smooth and unblemished film when finished and dry as possibly can be attained. For this reason the cues need to revolved horizontally and spun rather slowly ( 30-150 rpm) until a little bit dry so that the finish will not run. Hanging and spinning vertically may make applying finish consistent but does not help at all from running and getting curtains in the finish as it will be ever more thicker the farther you get from the joint. You just can't get around Newton's law about gravity.

Dick
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Dick,

Not feeling bad - that's how I learn. Since my shop is in the basement, I'm sticking to water-based finishes for odor and volatility reasons. And yes, I think about the Newtonian thing, but it's what I"ve got for now.

You've probably already forgotten more about cue making and machinery than I'll ever learn, so your insight is valued.

Thanks,

Gary
 
vertical booth

Gary, if it makes you feel any better, i don't even have a booth. Also, I have visited a big time cuemaker who has, what i consider to be a Grade A finish who sprays his cues vertically...only his is in a dedicated booth. So I know its possible to achieve a good finish with a setup like yours.

"Not disagreeing with Dick"
 
fiolledapool said:
Any recommendations to buy motor and variable speed? where?
ac or dc motor?
Click to expand...

Yeah, go back to post #9 in this thread. I made the original box shown then changed it over to chain & sprocket after experiencing a slippage problem with the belts & pulleys. I purchased the bearings, chain, sprockets, motors & speed controls from the surplus center linked in post #9 . They have a lot of stuff for building & maintaining machinery at good prices.
 
LGSM3 said:
Gary, if it makes you feel any better, i don't even have a booth. Also, I have visited a big time cuemaker who has, what i consider to be a Grade A finish who sprays his cues vertically...only his is in a dedicated booth. So I know its possible to achieve a good finish with a setup like yours.

"Not disagreeing with Dick"
Click to expand...

LGSM3,

I don't feel bad - like I told Dick (and this applies to all others) I REALLY appreciate how open and helpful the guys are here. I've got a lot to learn, I learn a lot every day - just wish I had the time to practice all that I'm told!! Until I practice it, it isn't learned.

But THANKS for the thought.

Gary
 
RSCue said:
After much research, I have decided to build mine with chains. I got many requests to build others as well. For all of you that contacted me, this is my game plan. I will build one for myself first and make sure it works perfectly before I would even consider building gibson exhaust tips one for someone else. Once mine is done and all the bugs worked out, I will post pictures and would be willing to build others at that time. Thank you all for your requests and you can contact me again if you have any questions. Again, I just refuse to build/sell anything unless I know it is a great product. Thanks for your patience. Russ
Click to expand...

It would be great to see your idea take place. Once you start building I'll surely want to see some pics for some inspiration and maybe order one from you. Good luck.
 
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rhncue said:
Not wanting to make you feel badly but actually, this is a pretty bad design for more than one reason. 1. You can't spray in it without the fear of either blowing up your house or a slow death from nerve system damage or emphysema and 2., You want a smooth, fairly heavy coats of finish put on the cue so that there is a smooth and unblemished film when finished and dry as possibly can be attained. For this reason the cues need to revolved horizontally and spun rather slowly ( 30-150 rpm) until a little bit dry so that the finish will not run. Hanging and spinning vertically may make applying finish consistent but does not help at all from running and getting curtains in the finish as it will be ever more thicker the farther you get from the joint. You just can't get around Newton's law about gravity.

Dick
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Hi,

Dick is right about the horizontal spray position. If you spray vertical you must spray light dry coats so gravity does not make to clear run. I have found that for the best finish and buffing possible you need to put the finish on as thick as possible obtaining a very wet look. Not too thick as to have it run before you can get around the whole diameter. Just like Goldielocks, it has to be just right!

If you don't spin the cue slowly after your spray while ratchet rotating the cue 6 or 7 times while spraying, the clear coat will drip. After about 10 minutes you are ready for the next coat and spin again without dripping. With a 1.4 tip and a full squeeze on the trigger my gun works left to right in about 3.5 seconds on a 29 inch cue.

If I were to do this on the vertical it would be drip city.

Rick Geschrey
 
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GEBrown said:
LGSM3,

I don't feel bad - like I told Dick (and this applies to all others) I REALLY appreciate how open and helpful the guys are here. I've got a lot to learn, I learn a lot every day - just wish I had the time to practice all that I'm told!! Until I practice it, it isn't learned.

But THANKS for the thought.

Gary
Click to expand...

I spray on the lathe but I "index" it.
I spin after the spraying is done.
Enduro waterbased clear over two coats of Finish Cure Epoxy.
 
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