Full splice or mot

Personally when I hear full splice I expect the butt to be complete. I don't think it's "true" otherwise. From my understanding half spliced are inlayed not a actually spliced.
 
Last edited:
i think some of us are using different termonology to describe the same thing,and the same words to describe something tiotally different

this was not meant to ber a witch hunt or critical thing

i was thinking of say Joel.since he is as good as it gets

He makes a full splice front that he then cuts off below the points and proceeds from there as if the cue were a short blank

nothing inlayed etc

my thinking was that these cues,as excellent as we know they are, are still not
what i called a full splice cue

whether they play as good,or better is not the question

I picked Joel because he is a super cue maker,this is not a critique in any way of the quality

my question is to do with the nomenclature or term

I would also like to know if there is a reason to think a full splice cue is better than a shorty or plain jane

i suspect there may be no clear answer


I would like to buy a Joel Hercek cue,so please no nit picking arguments

I never understood the titleist craze but many cue makers cut them in half and proceed as if it were a shoty ,but call it a full splice,which I don't understand

thanks
dean
 
deanoc said:
i think some of us are using different termonology to describe the same thing,and the same words to describe something tiotally different

this was not meant to ber a witch hunt or critical thing

i was thinking of say Joel.since he is as good as it gets

He makes a full splice front that he then cuts off below the points and proceeds from there as if the cue were a short blank

nothing inlayed etc

my thinking was that these cues,as excellent as we know they are, are still not
what i called a full splice cue

whether they play as good,or better is not the question

I picked Joel because he is a super cue maker,this is not a critique in any way of the quality

my question is to do with the nomenclature or term

I would also like to know if there is a reason to think a full splice cue is better than a shorty or plain jane

i suspect there may be no clear answer


I would like to buy a Joel Hercek cue,so please no nit picking arguments

I never understood the titleist craze but many cue makers cut them in half and proceed as if it were a shoty ,but call it a full splice,which I don't understand

thanks
dean
Click to expand...

I suppose there are different ideas of what a "full splice" is, but I think the same as you.

I assume one may call a cue that has both ends of the points, in each direction, intact a full splice and then add a handle or extra piece of wood to make up the length of the butt, but I always used the term to mean the cue didn't have any handles or extension added to it.

That is why I asked this question in the cue makers forum about Titlists:

http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=421754&highlight=full+splice+titlist
 
deanoc said:
i think some of us are using different termonology to describe the same thing,and the same words to describe something tiotally different

this was not meant to ber a witch hunt or critical thing

i was thinking of say Joel.since he is as good as it gets

He makes a full splice front that he then cuts off below the points and proceeds from there as if the cue were a short blank

nothing inlayed etc

my thinking was that these cues,as excellent as we know they are, are still not
what i called a full splice cue

whether they play as good,or better is not the question

I picked Joel because he is a super cue maker,this is not a critique in any way of the quality

my question is to do with the nomenclature or term

I would also like to know if there is a reason to think a full splice cue is better than a shorty or plain jane

i suspect there may be no clear answer


I would like to buy a Joel Hercek cue,so please no nit picking arguments

I never understood the titleist craze but many cue makers cut them in half and proceed as if it were a shoty ,but call it a full splice,which I don't understand

thanks
dean
Click to expand...

The reason why Joel's are still referred to as full splice is because he uses splice joint construction for the original blank, then fully splices in the handle with no hidden connection hardware. He does this to help prevent warping and to assist in weight control.

In the case of a Titlist cut short and a handle screwed in with a "A" joint, any full splice advantage is long gone, and the joint is weak right there.

Theoretically, if you were to take a short splice cue handle and it on a brick at each end, then stand on it, it should break at the "A" joint. On the other hand, if you take a full splice handle and do the same thing, it may not break at all, or it may break at the neck, but doesn't break at the joint. Mark Bear demonstrated this to show why a full splice joint is stronger than a typical A joint.

Personally, with modern glues and hardware, I no longer think there is an advantage to the old full splice other than those I previously stated.
 
9Ballr said:
Most makers also make more money of the more labor intensive cues.
It keeps them coming back to the shop.
So I understand the "justification".

Personally I much prefer the hit and feel and actually the look
of a full splice but that may be because I played house cues
for years and years before I got my first custom cue.
When I did it was - and pretty much has been - a disappointment.

I have several high quality ques but keep going back to the, full splice sneakies.
Just because I feel more at home with them.

Am getting a new one this coming month, a Keith Josey.
He makes some of the best full splice I've played.
Yes, I'm including Scruggs and Frey cues, in my opinion they
simply don't match what Keith is doing.

All of this is just an opinion. Take it as such. Especially since I have no idea
how much a cue maker makes per cue...
Click to expand...

Just wanted to say thank you. You have given me an answer to a question I never asked, but already knew the answer but didn't know it I knew it lol. Confused yet? I have always thought that a good house cue plays " hits " better than any 2 piece I've ever played with. I too have always preferred the PJ sneakies such as from Frey and Scruggs, which are and always have been my go to choice of a player. I really don't know that much about cue construction, just know what I like in the feel of a player. So this thread; and your post particularly , has enlightened me as to why I like what I like.
 
Full Splice Blank

Pete Tascarella had an ebony blank he completed a couple of years ago. I had him finish it for me, received it two weeks ago.

I have one of his short splice cues as well, and it definitely has a different feel. It plays a little more limber than the short splice, joint, shaft, ferrule and tips all identical on both cues. I am loving it!

I also have Joel Hercek on order, and that should be coming up fairly soon. Last time I contacted Joel, he was working on his 2003 orders, and that was a few years ago. 2004 is next!

-dj
 

Attachments

  • T3Fore.jpg
    T3Fore.jpg
    89.1 KB · Views: 252
  • T3Sig2.jpg
    T3Sig2.jpg
    60.2 KB · Views: 230
Last edited:
skins said:
They're still considered full splices....
Click to expand...

No actually there not in fact I would have to see more cause that looks like cut in dropped in points and that by no means is a splice , a splice is joining woods not cutting them in


1
 
Davis makes full splice cues and cuts them down. A short splice is Inlayed, a full splice short is a true full splice with the bottom cut off and another piece of wood added as a another splice.

I have researched this extensively and have found "full splice" is not necessarily they best way to build a cue.
 
Last edited:
The reality is that a cue made with a fullsplice or longsplice blank is not under any circumstances inherently better than a cue made with a V-channel pointed short splice blank or inlaid points forearm and handle (or merry widow). Great playing cues and crappy playing cues can be constructed with all of the methods. The overall woods and construction methods including taper matter a lot more IMO. The skills and knowledge of the cuemaker are of a higher importance than a blank.

For as long as you have been around cues and cue shops Dean I'd think you'd agree.




deanoc said:
As i understand it,a cue where the bottom piece is spliced into the upper end with or without veneers is a full splice cue.
The cue is supposed to be more solid or provide some benefit because it is a stronger or less piecemeal construction


But when the full splice is then cut slightly below the points and then constructed exactly like a typical 3 piece or regular cue butt


Here is the question

Is it still a full splice cue?
stated again ,would it have more in common with a normally constructed cue
than it would with a true full splice?

I have been told by well known cue makers that the simple full splice design
should be better playing,but I really don't know why or if this is true
Click to expand...
 
i have been around a long time and benefited from
knowing most of the great cue makers,but I really
don't understand these things too clearly myself

If I had to bet Jazznpool,I would agree with him,
but don't ask me to prove it

It is just me,but if I get a full splice cue,I like it to be
wrapless and show the sharp ends up and down

pretty much the same reason I like sharp inlays,
I think they look right to me

Lately Larry Vigus has been making me some
cues with the butt of one piece of wood and
using ash for the shaft.

I think the play is really great,I think he cores these for stability
regardless I have been happy,but he started making full splice
with colors and they are so pretty that I want one just because of looks
i don't see how it could play better


PS
shadowmoss has some ash blanks,if you can afford to buy the wood and wait and get your cue maker to fit your cue,I think you will love it,I get mine 12.5 and it is still not wimpy,i would like to try a 12mm

again if you don't like what I do,I told you I didn't know what I was talking about
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top