Full Splice Question

JMW

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What is the advantage of a full splice butt over a butt made with one piece of wood? Specifically, what are the advantages of a full splice butt of bacote into a maple forearm versus a butt made only from a single piece of bacote? Or maple?

Thanks,
Jonathan
 
JMW said:
What is the advantage of a full splice butt over a butt made with one piece of wood? Specifically, what are the advantages of a full splice butt of bacote into a maple forearm versus a butt made only from a single piece of bacote? Or maple?

Thanks,
Jonathan

It makes it easier to balance the cue and makes it less likely to warp. Besides that it looks better in my opinion.
 
I have wondered the same myself. Why did early cue makers start splicing different woods together to make cues in the first place? I can only speculate that the playing characteristics of maple were found to be superior to other woods. If so, then why not a cue entirely of maple? I don't think it's a weight or balance issue, because people have been weighting the butt end of cues with lead since . . . well, way, way back. I have some very early examples. So did they start splicing different woods together simply for asthetic reasons? Seems too simple to me, but I just don't know.

It would seem to me that a single piece of solid wood would be the best way to transfer the vibrations and harmonics of the hit cleanly from tip, to handle, to players hand. A "full spliced" forearm will, however tend to produce a stiffer hit than a solid cue made of many species of wood. Maple, for example.
 
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Stability. Two pieces will stay straighter than one. It is very difficult to keep one piece of wood straight over the length of 29".
 
ratcues said:
Stability. Two pieces will stay straighter than one. It is very difficult to keep one piece of wood straight over the length of 29".
That's what I thought, The splice creates a "Spine"..
 
Thanks everyone,

So far the advantages of a full splice versus a single wood butt are-
Stability- helps prevent warping
Weight- some woods are just too light
Balance- makes it easier to balance without using weights
Looks- a plain cue is plain
Hit- produces a stiffer hit

The only disadvantage could be a loss of feedback.
 
The only disadvantage could be a loss of feedback.
I don't agree with that assumption at all.
Imo two woods with opposing weight, density and tone make for better feedback.
That's why bocote and purpleheart sneaky petes/conversion are excellent hitter.
Kinda like a softwood bodied guitar with more ridgid/denser backs.
 
I'm not sure how to explain but have heard the splice hit is suposed to be better. When the cue ball is contacted the wood compresses and the long splice spreads the presure evenly or throughout the cue. My friend explained it much better that.
I have been wondering if anybody has a slow motion video of a cue hitting the cue ball. I saw one years ago and want to see it again. When watching it shows the tip contacting the cue ball seven times before they separate. It's kewl and could help makes sence of the theory above.
 
Graciocues said:
I'm not sure how to explain but have heard the splice hit is suposed to be better. When the cue ball is contacted the wood compresses and the long splice spreads the presure evenly or throughout the cue. My friend explained it much better that.
I have been wondering if anybody has a slow motion video of a cue hitting the cue ball. I saw one years ago and want to see it again. When watching it shows the tip contacting the cue ball seven times before they separate. It's kewl and could help makes sence of the theory above.

I know that the four prong splice method was created to maximize the wood surface area for better adhesion, as adhesives in those days weren't very strong. Haven't heard of the full splice spreading pressure evenly . . .

Try here for all the high speed pool video you could want. Good stuff.
Mr H
 
Tip contacting the ball 7 times. That is a bad hit. Ball in hand.

On the other hand, every extremely high speed video of a tip hitting a cue ball I have ever seen shows that the ball is gone before the shock wave gets to the butt cap.
 
I'm not sure I agree with the straightness aspect of full splicing. If somebody can keep a maple shaft straight then it should be no problem to keep a butt straight. I have actually experienced more warped sneaky blanks than solid butts warping. They always seem to warp right at the back of the splice. However, everybody experiences different things.

As for the pros vs cons, I think the most notable pro to full splicing is weight & balance control. A cocobolo sneaky has weight in the back because of the coco heaviness, and the joint pin to balance it out in the front. It's easy to get a 19oz., 19" balanced cue with no weight bolt. I can't think of any serious cons of splicing.
 
qbilder said:
I'm not sure I agree with the straightness aspect of full splicing. If somebody can keep a maple shaft straight then it should be no problem to keep a butt straight. I have actually experienced more warped sneaky blanks than solid butts warping. They always seem to warp right at the back of the splice. However, everybody experiences different things.

.
Imo that's due to bad runouts on the maple fronts or the handle/points.
I've seen so many with bad twists that I don't even try to cut at all.
What for? They're gonna twist again unless you drill them out.
Imo shafts would be straighter if they were fullsplice too.
But, they'd look ugly and be heavy.
 
Mr Hoppe said:
I know that the four prong splice method was created to maximize the wood surface area for better adhesion, as adhesives in those days weren't very strong. Haven't heard of the full splice spreading pressure evenly . . .

Try here for all the high speed pool video you could want. Good stuff.
Mr H

Those are kewl vidoes. The video I saw was zoomed in a lot closer and yes it showed every shot being a double hit faul (7 hit faul).
 
for a one piece butt,there are only a handful of woods that you can successfully build a cue with.when you start splicing them you have many more options.

i do think that a one piece butt has an advantage in the hit and feedback though.i would rather have a one piece butt that was balanced and weighted properly than a spliced butt.

the full splice cues i have owned and/or built seem to have a softer hit than the plain janes or one piece butt cues.the only thing i can figure is that the glue at the two surfaces of wood tends to soften the hit.i don't know if soft equates to less feedback,and i do like soft,but i also like the crispe hit of the widows or pne piece butts.

i want to emphasize that this is all just my opinion and could be eintirely wrong.
 
ratcues said:
Stability. Two pieces will stay straighter than one. It is very difficult to keep one piece of wood straight over the length of 29".

Pre 1900. It was a one piece full splice cue. What about the above three quarter of the cue? Why not worried about the 1st half of the cue getting em straight? Those are the most problem area, right?
 
icem3n said:
Pre 1900. It was a one piece full splice cue. What about the above three quarter of the cue? Why not worried about the 1st half of the cue getting em straight? Those are the most problem area, right?

Back then it was common to splice the shaft as well, usually with ebony.
Mr H


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JMW said:
What is the advantage of a full splice butt over a butt made with one piece of wood? Specifically, what are the advantages of a full splice butt of bacote into a maple forearm versus a butt made only from a single piece of bacote? Or maple?

Thanks,
Jonathan
It allows you to make a cue that is in most cases less likely to warp. It allows you to keep maple in the forearm for a more consitant hit and allows you to balance the cue out at a more appropiate weight than plain maple or other woods might give. Bocote in most cases is too heavy as a one piece and maple is too light.
 
i would think some Bubinga,Purpleheart,Zircote,some Rosewoods,Bocote and maybe some dense Maple heartwood would make decent one piece cues.
 
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