Full spliced cue vs. Not full spliced cue

mazinga74

mazinga74

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Ok here is a question. If you get your cue built by the same cue maker but one cue is full spliced with veeners and no inlays and other is not full spliced with veeners but inlays in the butt and points (not crazy inlays), would fullspliced cue be worth more, equal, or less cause it doesn't have inlays? I know that full splice method is harder to build so would this make a big difference. Let me know what you guys think. Would love to hear your openions or facts.

Thanks
 
When you say, Full Spliced (with veneers) picture a Sneaky Pete.
That is a full spliced cue. Some make plain sneakys and others fancy.
John Davis and Prather come to mind. Full splice with veneers.

Half spliced is when the points are cut into the forearm. These points can be
plain or with veneers.

Floating points are cut in (inlayed) with either a pantograph or much better, a CnC machine.
 
depends

depends on the level of inlaywork, however the inlayed cue would most likely be more. there are many cuemakers who use pre made fullsplice blanks because of the amount of work involved in creating a fullsplice cue.
 
Full will cost more- have lots of feel to it.

Its all in the cuemakers style - some only make full splice!! Joel Hercek 4,500 for a colo bolo cue - with 40 ivory inlays. George balabuska prefered full splice until Gus Szamboti blanks became available> mark
 
A sneaky pete style cue is a full splice, but without veneers. A full splice with veneers is not considered a sneaky pete. Actually, it's not a sneaky pete if it has anything, including collars...it's just a fancy non-veneered full splice.


Now that I have clarified that....

Doesn't matter if a cue is a short splice or a full splice, once you start adding inlays, the cost begins to increase, especially if you use premium abalone/paua shell or elephant ivory. Typical cost of inlay can average from $25-$250 per inlay, depending upon size and difficulty.

If the maker is building his own full splice blanks, then it is conceivable that a full splice with no inlays can price out at the same or slightly more than a short splice with some simple diamond inlays.

Lisa
 
mazinga74 said:
Ok here is a question. If you get your cue built by the same cue maker but one cue is full spliced with veeners and no inlays and other is not full spliced with veeners but inlays in the butt and points (not crazy inlays), would fullspliced cue be worth more, equal, or less cause it doesn't have inlays? I know that full splice method is harder to build so would this make a big difference. Let me know what you guys think. Would love to hear your openions or facts.

Thanks
Click to expand...


This is an easy question to answer, since very few cue makers today build truly full spliced blanks, I would say no. For those who do build this style blank, and build a quality full splice blank I do not think in most cases the blank itself will cost a premium if your are purchasing a cue.

In most cases the Cue Makers name and notoriety will dictate the cost of a cue more than anything else.

JIMO
 
manwon said:
This is an easy question to answer, since very few cue makers today build truly full spliced blanks, I would say no. For those who do build this style blank, and build a quality full splice blank I do not think in most cases the blank itself will cost a premium if your are purchasing a cue.

In most cases the Cue Makers name and notoriety will dictate the cost of a cue more than anything else.

JIMO
Click to expand...

Thanks for everyones input. So who are some big name cue makers that build their own fullsplices that is worth paying big money for??? I know Hercek and who else???
 
-r-

Jerry Rauenzahn of Rauenzahn Custom Cues out of Warren, PA
builds full splice cues from his own blanks. 40 years of cuemaking
experience and a hell of a nice guy to deal with. I have 1 of his cues. and
I like the hit so much I went to him to build a Balabushka tribute cue. It
should be ready in May.

<------- it was ready in May and that's a picture of it right there.

Ron F
 
Last edited:
-r-

I have two cues from Jerry R. that meet the OP's question.

A fullsplice cue with no inlays, and a short spliced cue with ivory inlays.

I paid more for the short spliced cue.

Jerry R makes a great cue at a reasonable price. Check him out.
 
Scott Gracio is now making full spliced cues.

Duc Lam makes good cheap full spliced blanks.

John Davis makes full spliced blanks.

Prather makes full spliced cues and blanks.

Carolina custom cues makes full spliced cues.

LP makes full spliced cues.

I prefer the hit of a full spliced cue to "most" short splices.

I've hit some shorties that I cannot tell that it's a short splice. The only consistent reason to me seems to be when the forearm is threaded (most builders) and there is no air gap between the forearm male an handle female does it mostly feel solid.

Hangar bolts connecting the forearm to the handle feel weird to me.
 
Not that there's anything wrong with short splices. You are afforded greater flexibility in building short spliced cues in ring possibilities, recut points, and balance.

It's all about what you like to play with and how it makes you feel when shooting.

If the cue makes you feel confident, who cares if it's a $100 eBay special or a $9,000 Black Boar?

I could t walk into a pool hall or bar (shudder) with a cue worth a few grand without feeling self conscious.
 
I used to shoot with a fancy cue with inlays and ringwork, but after shooting with a sneaky, I had to have one. I absolutely love the hit/sound/feedback of it. One of these days I'm going to order a John Davis blank.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top