gun drill

800 is the lowest you can go on a Deluxe isn't it Kim?

I know I have started a small fire boring a piece of ebony for a butt sleeve.

Ahhh, the smell of burning ebony in the morning.

Tell what movie I took that from.
 
Blue Hog ridr said:
800 is the lowest you can go on a Deluxe isn't it Kim?

I know I have started a small fire boring a piece of ebony for a butt sleeve.

Ahhh, the smell of burning ebony in the morning.

Tell what movie I took that from.
Click to expand...



Sorry.... I didn't really try to ignore you. I just never looked at this post again.

substitute napalm for ebony........

I have tried coring at faster rpms but the motor controller trips out. I can do 800 - 900 rpm and practice tells you how hard to push the feed rate. I have a 3/8 gun drill and I use that first. It makes the big one go in a little easier. I also have a 1/2 hp 1725 rpm AC motor hooked up if I need it or I am in a hurry.

If it gets too hot and squeals, I put a little cue wax on the head. (of the drill) lol

Kim

Kim
 
Hi,

I use .750 and bring my 30" dowels down to about .738 before the G Glue and water spray.

Joey made a very good point about the ring alignment. I ordered a .740 drill bit that I mount in my tail stock and I drill out my ring billets on the lathe 1" at a time between cutting them off with the slitting saw.

This way the ring geometry does not have a chance of moving around.

I run my chuck at 450 rpm and induce 100 psi air but only crack the valve a little and monitor heat and the debris comming out into my vacuum. Like Goldylocks said, not too hot, not too cold but just right.

Rick
 
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scdiveteam said:
Hi,

I use .750 and bring my 30" dowels down to about .738 before the G Glue and water spray.

Joey made a very good point about the ring alignment. I ordered a .740 drill bit that I mount in my tail stock and I drill out my ring billets on the lathe 1" at a time between cutting them off with the slitting saw.

This way the ring geometry does not have a chance of moving around.

I run my chuck at 450 rpm and induce 100 psi air but only crack the valve a little and monitor heat and the debris comming out into my vacuum. Like Goldylocks said, not too hot, not too cold but just right.

Rick
Click to expand...

Joey has a very good point. My gun drill is .6876 and I make the dowels about 12 to 15 under size. My rings on the rear of the cue are sloppy at .750 bore. To fix this I sleeve the core and turn it to about .750 to make sure the rings are tight. If I have enough handle or butt sleeve I turn the end of that for the rings. This makes an extra step and more work for me.

That is why everyone recommends that you have an over size gun drill. You can make the dowels at .750 and eliminate the extra step that I must do.

The front of the dowel ... I just turn to .625 for those rings.

Merry Christmas .....

Kim
 
Glue Relief

Happy New Year, everyone! I've read this thread several times, and others dealing with this subject, and I'm still confused. I mean, if I wanted to buy a gun drill tomorrow, I wouldn't know what size to get. I realize this is somewhat subjective, but I'd expect there to be a rough consensus regarding the difference between the core diameter and the drill diameter. In this and another thread, I've read the following: SCdiveteam cores everything at .750 and uses a .737 core (.013 diameter difference for glue relief). Cueman leaves a .010 diameter difference. Ok, those two are close, but most others seem to recommend a .775 drill for a .750 core, and a .650 drill for a .625 forearm core. That equates to a .025 diameter difference which is twice as great. So, are both of these tolerances equally appropriate? I realize the advantage of using .750 and .625 cores so standard size phenolic (and other) tube will fit, but that would fit on a .625 or .750 core with no glue relief. Can someone clear this up for me. I hope to play around with this as a hobby some day. TIA
 
shankster8 said:
Happy New Year, everyone! I've read this thread several times, and others dealing with this subject, and I'm still confused. I mean, if I wanted to buy a gun drill tomorrow, I wouldn't know what size to get. I realize this is somewhat subjective, but I'd expect there to be a rough consensus regarding the difference between the core diameter and the drill diameter. In this and another thread, I've read the following: SCdiveteam cores everything at .750 and uses a .737 core (.013 diameter difference for glue relief). Cueman leaves a .010 diameter difference. Ok, those two are close, but most others seem to recommend a .775 drill for a .750 core, and a .650 drill for a .625 forearm core. That equates to a .025 diameter difference which is twice as great. So, are both of these tolerances equally appropriate? I realize the advantage of using .750 and .625 cores so standard size phenolic (and other) tube will fit, but that would fit on a .625 or .750 core with no glue relief. Can someone clear this up for me. I hope to play around with this as a hobby some day. TIA
Click to expand...

.775 drill gets a .765" dowel . No less than .760".
.650" core gets a .640" dowel.
I use .758" drill and use .750" dowel most of the time.
.775" for a forearm with an .840" or so joint size is too big for my liking.
Maybe for the handle.
 
Shankster8, I think you are confusing glue relief for rough core size. You can use an oversize core and turn it to final size after to fit your rings. If you start on size or smaller you will have nothing clean up. If you let your blanks sit after coring the size can change by the time you get to mating it to a handle so it is always nice to have some material to turn down to an exact size when doing your joint work.
 
shankster8 said:
Happy New Year, everyone! I've read this thread several times, and others dealing with this subject, and I'm still confused. I mean, if I wanted to buy a gun drill tomorrow, I wouldn't know what size to get. I realize this is somewhat subjective, but I'd expect there to be a rough consensus regarding the difference between the core diameter and the drill diameter. In this and another thread, I've read the following: SCdiveteam cores everything at .750 and uses a .737 core (.013 diameter difference for glue relief). Cueman leaves a .010 diameter difference. Ok, those two are close, but most others seem to recommend a .775 drill for a .750 core, and a .650 drill for a .625 forearm core. That equates to a .025 diameter difference which is twice as great. So, are both of these tolerances equally appropriate? I realize the advantage of using .750 and .625 cores so standard size phenolic (and other) tube will fit, but that would fit on a .625 or .750 core with no glue relief. Can someone clear this up for me. I hope to play around with this as a hobby some day. TIA
Click to expand...
The .650 and .775" are .025 oversize and that allows you to ream your phenolic slightly over 5/8" or 3/4" so all rings are the same ID. Then you have a core that is maybe .010" oversized to the ring size so you can turn it down to an exact snug fit. So the sizes you should buy if you want to use stock Phenolic tube for rings is about .775" and .650". The .650 for forearms and .775" for handles.
 
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Well, I finally got my gun drill in the mail and decided to give it a shot last night. I had a bit of trouble getting it started into the wood, but once it was in, damn, it was like i was cutting butter! I heeded the advice of several people and ordered one from sterling. I cored out a nice piece of coco and used a purple heart dowel. Ive never used gorilla glue, but it wasnt hard to figure out, lol. Ill try to get some pics up later 2nite.

Joe
 
snipershot said:
Well, I finally got my gun drill in the mail and decided to give it a shot last night. I had a bit of trouble getting it started into the wood, but once it was in, damn, it was like i was cutting butter! I heeded the advice of several people and ordered one from sterling. I cored out a nice piece of coco and used a purple heart dowel. Ive never used gorilla glue, but it wasnt hard to figure out, lol. Ill try to get some pics up later 2nite.

Joe
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Did you drill a pilot hole? You need a pilot to get it started efficiently. You should also put a hole in the opposite end to reduce tear out...
 
pescadoman said:
Did you drill a pilot hole? You need a pilot to get it started efficiently. You should also put a hole in the opposite end to reduce tear out...
Click to expand...

I center drilled the coco, but i think the center drill was too big. The gun drill kept trying to walk when it hit the hole. I think if i use a smaller center drill it will be better. I didnt have any tear out, maybe i just got lucky. Ill follow your advice next time man. Thanks for the info! :thumbup:

Joe
 
snipershot said:
I center drilled the coco, but i think the center drill was too big. The gun drill kept trying to walk when it hit the hole. I think if i use a smaller center drill it will be better. I didnt have any tear out, maybe i just got lucky. Ill follow your advice next time man. Thanks for the info! :thumbup:

Joe
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A forstner followed by a finsh bore works pretty quickly. You can also just use a forstner bit, but when I told my friend(pretty well know cue maker) about that he frowned and scolded me......

He said you should always just bore the hole.
 
pescadoman said:
A forstner followed by a finsh bore works pretty quickly. You can also just use a forstner bit, but when I told my friend(pretty well know cue maker) about that he frowned and scolded me......

He said you should always just bore the hole.
Click to expand...

I thought about boring a .650 starter hole, i guess i should have did it instead of being lazy. I will do that next time for sure.

Joe
 
snipershot said:
I thought about boring a .650 starter hole, i guess i should have did it instead of being lazy. I will do that next time for sure.

Joe
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The starter hole should be as close to the same size as the gun drill and as straight as possible. There is no Forstner nor spiral drill nor reamer that will drill a straight, round and correct size hole. The only thing that will work is a boring bar, period. You drill a smaller hole to the depth that you want and then follow up with the boring bar so that the hole is a very good fit to the gun drill. This assures that your set up for the gun drilling will be exactly aligned with the lathes bed so that it can do it's job without trying to run off or chatter causing an untrue or non straight bore. I use a boring bar on all holes that I drill larger than .250". I have no boring bars smaller in diameter or I would bore those also.

Dick
 
rhncue said:
The starter hole should be as close to the same size as the gun drill and as straight as possible. There is no Forstner nor spiral drill nor reamer that will drill a straight, round and correct size hole. The only thing that will work is a boring bar, period. You drill a smaller hole to the depth that you want and then follow up with the boring bar so that the hole is a very good fit to the gun drill. This assures that your set up for the gun drilling will be exactly aligned with the lathes bed so that it can do it's job without trying to run off or chatter causing an untrue or non straight bore. I use a boring bar on all holes that I drill larger than .250". I have no boring bars smaller in diameter or I would bore those also.

Dick
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You're right Dick, no sense arguing or saying I've done it successfully......numerous times.

You can't go wrong with the way Dick is describing.
 
I like the idea of boring the hole. Ive got 4 different boring bars, so its no biggie. I think i will try that tonight.

Joe
 
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Just a few questions on these things.

Is there an insert on these things,or a multi-faceted cutting edge that can be reground?

From brand-new to no longer working properly,how long do they last?

If you have a machine that allows it,can you use these out of a QCTP mounted chuck or boring bar holder,and feed under power like a boring bar,or do they have to be mounted in the tailstock?

Thanks,Tommy D.
 
rhncue said:
The starter hole should be as close to the same size as the gun drill and as straight as possible. There is no Forstner nor spiral drill nor reamer that will drill a straight, round and correct size hole. The only thing that will work is a boring bar, period. You drill a smaller hole to the depth that you want and then follow up with the boring bar so that the hole is a very good fit to the gun drill. This assures that your set up for the gun drilling will be exactly aligned with the lathes bed so that it can do it's job without trying to run off or chatter causing an untrue or non straight bore. I use a boring bar on all holes that I drill larger than .250". I have no boring bars smaller in diameter or I would bore those also.

Dick
Click to expand...
I carry a boring bar that is 3/16.
 
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