Looking for ideas - by far the weakest area of my game.
How to improve safety play?
- Thread starter Gerry Williams
- Start date
In general, the best way to improve your game is to first watch top tier pros do it, then practice doing it yourself.
For safety play, you should be watching professional matches. I would recommend 9 ball over 10 ball, as 9 ball is more "open", and this leads to safety play that is more "percentage" based. By this I mean, when a player is left with no shot in 9 ball, the balls are a million miles apart, and there are no "walls" to get behind, you get to see what the pro does that results in the highes percentage of times he does not sell out.
Speaking of "walls".. This is where 2 or more balls effectively block off a large percentage of the table. If you hit the lowest numbered ball and seek to put this "wall of balls" between the CB ending position and the OB ending position, then this is a good safety.
I am sure Phil Capelle has either a book directly related to improving safety play, or it is a part of his 9 ball book. I would start there, watch a few hundred hours of pro 9 ball matches, and practice hooking yourself over and over at the table.
In general, when you can manage it, safety shots that involve the least amount of english that is necessary are higher percentage. The reason for this is the speed is easier to judge when you are not spinning off a rail..
Short Bus Russ - C player
For safety play, you should be watching professional matches. I would recommend 9 ball over 10 ball, as 9 ball is more "open", and this leads to safety play that is more "percentage" based. By this I mean, when a player is left with no shot in 9 ball, the balls are a million miles apart, and there are no "walls" to get behind, you get to see what the pro does that results in the highes percentage of times he does not sell out.
Speaking of "walls".. This is where 2 or more balls effectively block off a large percentage of the table. If you hit the lowest numbered ball and seek to put this "wall of balls" between the CB ending position and the OB ending position, then this is a good safety.
I am sure Phil Capelle has either a book directly related to improving safety play, or it is a part of his 9 ball book. I would start there, watch a few hundred hours of pro 9 ball matches, and practice hooking yourself over and over at the table.
In general, when you can manage it, safety shots that involve the least amount of english that is necessary are higher percentage. The reason for this is the speed is easier to judge when you are not spinning off a rail..
Short Bus Russ - C player
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Watching the pros is a great tip...
Also learning to play the safety that is there and not trying to do too much... Most of the time when starting to play safe you have a tendency to try and control the object ball and the cueball to the point that you end up controlling neither... Concentrate on one or the other and you should start to see better results....
A safety requiring a kick or jump is a successful safety even if the opponent makes the ball or hooks you back...
Most people grade their safety place too severely and only feel like they played a good safe if they get ball in hand.. A good safe just means you chose to fore-go a shot you were likely going to miss if you even had one for another chance at getting back to the table.....
With that said if you play safes and end up on the losing end of the battles more often than not maybe your kicking and jumping needs the same work as your safety play......
Chris
Also learning to play the safety that is there and not trying to do too much... Most of the time when starting to play safe you have a tendency to try and control the object ball and the cueball to the point that you end up controlling neither... Concentrate on one or the other and you should start to see better results....
A safety requiring a kick or jump is a successful safety even if the opponent makes the ball or hooks you back...
Most people grade their safety place too severely and only feel like they played a good safe if they get ball in hand.. A good safe just means you chose to fore-go a shot you were likely going to miss if you even had one for another chance at getting back to the table.....
With that said if you play safes and end up on the losing end of the battles more often than not maybe your kicking and jumping needs the same work as your safety play......
Chris
There are some principles that are useful to know. They are described and demonstrated on the safety resource page. Other than that, its all all about practice. FYI, several useful safety drills are described and demonstrated on the safety drill resource page.
Enjoy,
Dave
There are several types of safeties:
1. cb hidden from ob. Where your primary concern is placing the cb.
2. ob hidden from cb. Where your primary concern is hiding the ob.
3. Safes where both 1 and 2 apply. Here, your concern is with exact placement of both balls.
4. Distance safes. Where all you can really do is put distance between the balls. Usually only works on weaker players.
5. Safes where you can't hide the ball and can only leave a long difficult bank shot. Usually only happens at the end of a rotational game.
The first thing you need to look at, is why you are weak in safeties. Do you have trouble with shooting softer shots that are usually required in safes? Do you have trouble judging the speed of the ob or cb? Are you unclear on just what the path of the cb will be off an ob? Or do you just not even see what to do to get safe? First place to start is finding out just what your weakness is.
As one who posted a lot of "what do you do here" and "what's your shot" threads, I am not known for my safety play. I don't like playing safe unless I have to. Knowing that, I knew I needed to work on my safety play. So what I did, is every tenth rack or so when playing rotation, I would instead of running out work on my safes. Each shot I would try and find the best safe available, then work on getting that safe.
You will quickly see the advantage of trying to control just one ball precisely. Whether that be the cb or ob. You will find it easier to control the cb precisely, and the ob to a general area. When you have to control both precisely, it gets pretty touchy. Once I got the safe, I figured I might as well kill two birds with one stone, so I would then practice on getting out of the safe. Whether jumping or kicking.
Practicing that way, you will never get through a rack, but stick with it for ten or fifteen minutes. Then go back to rotation. You will be surprised how much you learn just playing around with it. What is high percentage, and what is low percentage, ect.
1. cb hidden from ob. Where your primary concern is placing the cb.
2. ob hidden from cb. Where your primary concern is hiding the ob.
3. Safes where both 1 and 2 apply. Here, your concern is with exact placement of both balls.
4. Distance safes. Where all you can really do is put distance between the balls. Usually only works on weaker players.
5. Safes where you can't hide the ball and can only leave a long difficult bank shot. Usually only happens at the end of a rotational game.
The first thing you need to look at, is why you are weak in safeties. Do you have trouble with shooting softer shots that are usually required in safes? Do you have trouble judging the speed of the ob or cb? Are you unclear on just what the path of the cb will be off an ob? Or do you just not even see what to do to get safe? First place to start is finding out just what your weakness is.
As one who posted a lot of "what do you do here" and "what's your shot" threads, I am not known for my safety play. I don't like playing safe unless I have to. Knowing that, I knew I needed to work on my safety play. So what I did, is every tenth rack or so when playing rotation, I would instead of running out work on my safes. Each shot I would try and find the best safe available, then work on getting that safe.
You will quickly see the advantage of trying to control just one ball precisely. Whether that be the cb or ob. You will find it easier to control the cb precisely, and the ob to a general area. When you have to control both precisely, it gets pretty touchy. Once I got the safe, I figured I might as well kill two birds with one stone, so I would then practice on getting out of the safe. Whether jumping or kicking.
Practicing that way, you will never get through a rack, but stick with it for ten or fifteen minutes. Then go back to rotation. You will be surprised how much you learn just playing around with it. What is high percentage, and what is low percentage, ect.
These are snooker drills, so some layouts don't look like what you might encounter on a pool table, but the principles are the same.
You will see a the desired finishing location indicated.
Comes down to speed control and accurate contact to place the balls in the desired locations ... repeatedly.
http://www.147academy.com/files/Downloads/SAFETY.pdf
Drills give you the skills and understanding - your imagination tells you when and how to use them.
You will see a the desired finishing location indicated.
Comes down to speed control and accurate contact to place the balls in the desired locations ... repeatedly.
http://www.147academy.com/files/Downloads/SAFETY.pdf
Drills give you the skills and understanding - your imagination tells you when and how to use them.
Do you have a friend? Hopefully.
If so, I swear this is the most enjoyable way to bring your safety game up.
It's also good for your kicking.
It's a simple game based on trying to safe your opponent. If you succeed, they must kick or jump
at the object ball. If the don't make a good hit, you get a point. Then it's their turn.
Race to however many points.
It sounds really basic but it's honestly fun.
There have been times when I meet a friend to play some 10-ball or whatever.
We start out with the safety game to 'warm up'. Except instead of being a warmup, three hours later we're still playing.
What it really teaches you is how to play an aggressive safe where you freeze up on another ball.
It's not much use selling out a simple kick or jump.
Eventually you'll reach a point where your feel for these is so good you almost never sell out a look at the ball
even if you fail to freeze up the cue ball.
Here's a link to the rules of the game.
Safeties game.
If so, I swear this is the most enjoyable way to bring your safety game up.
It's also good for your kicking.
It's a simple game based on trying to safe your opponent. If you succeed, they must kick or jump
at the object ball. If the don't make a good hit, you get a point. Then it's their turn.
Race to however many points.
It sounds really basic but it's honestly fun.
There have been times when I meet a friend to play some 10-ball or whatever.
We start out with the safety game to 'warm up'. Except instead of being a warmup, three hours later we're still playing.
What it really teaches you is how to play an aggressive safe where you freeze up on another ball.
It's not much use selling out a simple kick or jump.
Eventually you'll reach a point where your feel for these is so good you almost never sell out a look at the ball
even if you fail to freeze up the cue ball.
Here's a link to the rules of the game.
Safeties game.
Bob Hennings Pro Book has a couple of sections on safety plays.
http://www.bebobpublishing.com/
I just had a look at his site and damned if he doesn't have a new book out, PRO SAFETIES: THE TOP 100 SAFETY SHOTS IN POOL !
Dave
http://www.bebobpublishing.com/
I just had a look at his site and damned if he doesn't have a new book out, PRO SAFETIES: THE TOP 100 SAFETY SHOTS IN POOL !
Dave
I find when i decide to play safe that i may not put the same mental effort or planning into the shot. You are definately a strong enough player to know when and how to play safe
Pick the safe that provides the largest margin of error, play for the lockdown - ideally frozen to a ball or rail or both cutting off all possible angles as best you can from your current position.
Take the appropriate time to plan and visualize - just because it is a safe and not a clear run does not mean it is time to half ass it! A strong safe lets you play the ghost -
I like you vs. the ghost.
Pick the safe that provides the largest margin of error, play for the lockdown - ideally frozen to a ball or rail or both cutting off all possible angles as best you can from your current position.
Take the appropriate time to plan and visualize - just because it is a safe and not a clear run does not mean it is time to half ass it! A strong safe lets you play the ghost -
I like you vs. the ghost.
For those interested, here's a video demonstration:
NV C.17 - Safety challenge game and drill, from VEPP V
This is a fun game, and it definitely helps improve one's safety play with enough "practice."
Regards,
Dave
I try and play a game by myself every time I get to the table before or after I start playing the ghost or what ever. It can be any game, but I only use it for 8, 9 and 10 ball.
The game - you play as both players in a match. Mr safe vs Mr attack.
Mr safe can only play safe, and starts play each time after the break. Mr safe can only win the game if Mr attack can't run out a rack of 9 ball in less than 15 shots, for example.
Mr attack can only try to pocket everything. He shoots second after Mr safe has the first shot. Kicks, banks, jumps...you name it Mr attack has to got for it and try make the ball. Mr attack wins if like above, he runs out in less than 15 shots in 9 ball.
This keeps safety play fresh in the memory if you play each session. Soon makes you understand what a good safe is and what an excellent safe is. Not only does it develop your safety game, but everything else too.
My common thought process is that if I'm trying to get the CB say 2 rails tucked in behind a cluster and up against a rail, I only concentrate on CB path. Doesn't matter where the OB is its going to be hard to escape. These situations are rare though and you need to really think about the OB resting point. You are a very good player Gerry so I know this isn't going to be too difficult for you.
Also, this might be worth a mention...if you're playing safe on the 1 but the 2 and 8 are in a cluster, don't leave the 1 safe at the other end of the table to the cluster. BIH is still going to be tought to break the 2 out. Leave the 1 as close to the cluster as you can whilst playing safe. That way, they miss the 1 you get BIH with an easy break out or they break into the cluster for you and miss the 1.
The game - you play as both players in a match. Mr safe vs Mr attack.
Mr safe can only play safe, and starts play each time after the break. Mr safe can only win the game if Mr attack can't run out a rack of 9 ball in less than 15 shots, for example.
Mr attack can only try to pocket everything. He shoots second after Mr safe has the first shot. Kicks, banks, jumps...you name it Mr attack has to got for it and try make the ball. Mr attack wins if like above, he runs out in less than 15 shots in 9 ball.
This keeps safety play fresh in the memory if you play each session. Soon makes you understand what a good safe is and what an excellent safe is. Not only does it develop your safety game, but everything else too.
My common thought process is that if I'm trying to get the CB say 2 rails tucked in behind a cluster and up against a rail, I only concentrate on CB path. Doesn't matter where the OB is its going to be hard to escape. These situations are rare though and you need to really think about the OB resting point. You are a very good player Gerry so I know this isn't going to be too difficult for you.
Also, this might be worth a mention...if you're playing safe on the 1 but the 2 and 8 are in a cluster, don't leave the 1 safe at the other end of the table to the cluster. BIH is still going to be tought to break the 2 out. Leave the 1 as close to the cluster as you can whilst playing safe. That way, they miss the 1 you get BIH with an easy break out or they break into the cluster for you and miss the 1.
RBC
Deceased
The one thing I've seen more successful than any other also happens to be the simplest one.
Play one ball safe. In other words, focus on either getting the cue ball to a particular spot, or the object ball to a particular spot.
What happens is, when we are trying to think about both balls, we get the speed wrong and usually come up short or go too far.
You can always visualize both balls and where they will go, but when it comes time to shoot, choose the most important one to focus on. You'll be amazed at how often both balls go where you expected to.
Play one ball safe. In other words, focus on either getting the cue ball to a particular spot, or the object ball to a particular spot.
What happens is, when we are trying to think about both balls, we get the speed wrong and usually come up short or go too far.
You can always visualize both balls and where they will go, but when it comes time to shoot, choose the most important one to focus on. You'll be amazed at how often both balls go where you expected to.
go on youtube and watch some snooker matches, more specifically john higgins and ronnie osullivan, pay attention to their beginning of game strategy and their end game strategies even though u will only see them in a small % of games snooker magnifies just how good a top players cue ball/object ball control are, the better your cue ball control is the better your object ball control will be, it also helps a lot to be able to play snooker w a strong player u will pick up a lot more than u think
a close 2nd would be watching efren or corey playing 1 pocket and how 99% of the time their cue ball ends up virtually exactly where they want it to! snooker showcases the types of skill these guys have but just magnifies it really
a close 2nd would be watching efren or corey playing 1 pocket and how 99% of the time their cue ball ends up virtually exactly where they want it to! snooker showcases the types of skill these guys have but just magnifies it really
Thanks for all the responses - some really good suggestions here.
I too get caught up in playing the ghost as a method of practice. Joe Tucker also mentioned defensive 10 ball which is a great game. Each player is allowed to make 2 balls and then must play a safety.
Appreciate your help.
Cheers,
Gerry
I too get caught up in playing the ghost as a method of practice. Joe Tucker also mentioned defensive 10 ball which is a great game. Each player is allowed to make 2 balls and then must play a safety.
Appreciate your help.
Cheers,
Gerry
Here's a game I used to play with Johnny Ervolino nearly twenty years ago.
One player breaks and any balls pocketed are spotted. A push is permitted on the next shot.
On all subsequent shots, a player shoots just once per inning and must play a safety. Any balls that go in as that safety is played are spotted, so on all turns there are nine balls on the table and the safety must be played on the one ball.
Any foul gives opponent ball in hand. Two consecutive fouls is loss of game.
This game develops your defense and your kicking.
One player breaks and any balls pocketed are spotted. A push is permitted on the next shot.
On all subsequent shots, a player shoots just once per inning and must play a safety. Any balls that go in as that safety is played are spotted, so on all turns there are nine balls on the table and the safety must be played on the one ball.
Any foul gives opponent ball in hand. Two consecutive fouls is loss of game.
This game develops your defense and your kicking.
Keep leaving yourself with difficult shots. :grin:
Assuming your talking about rotation games and not 14.1, I play a bastardized version of ghost 9 or 10 ball when I want to practice safeties and kicks. Break, then BIH, If you miss you lose, as usual. But I modify the game like this: I can choose to play safe any time, like say if I have a difficult shot. If I succeed in hooking the ghost such that he has to kick or jump to make legal contact, then I don't lose the game. If the ghost has a direct shot at the OB, my safe was unsuccessful and I lose. If I hook him then, as the ghost, I make my best attempt at the kick, even trying to kick safe if possible. This help my kicking game as well. And I play on from there.
If you want, you can even do this at given intervals, like every other ball you attempt to hook the ghost.
Assuming your talking about rotation games and not 14.1, I play a bastardized version of ghost 9 or 10 ball when I want to practice safeties and kicks. Break, then BIH, If you miss you lose, as usual. But I modify the game like this: I can choose to play safe any time, like say if I have a difficult shot. If I succeed in hooking the ghost such that he has to kick or jump to make legal contact, then I don't lose the game. If the ghost has a direct shot at the OB, my safe was unsuccessful and I lose. If I hook him then, as the ghost, I make my best attempt at the kick, even trying to kick safe if possible. This help my kicking game as well. And I play on from there.
If you want, you can even do this at given intervals, like every other ball you attempt to hook the ghost.
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8-ball?
What game do you mostly play?
If it's 8-ball, I'm currently doing a series in Pool & Billiard magazine, "Fifty Game-winning 8-ball Safety Shots". There are two problem situations and the solutions in each issue.
The key to safety play is imagination. No one can teach what to do in every possible situation, but a good teacher can help you cultivate your imagination by describing his or her thought processes and how they read and plan a table.
What game do you mostly play?
If it's 8-ball, I'm currently doing a series in Pool & Billiard magazine, "Fifty Game-winning 8-ball Safety Shots". There are two problem situations and the solutions in each issue.
The key to safety play is imagination. No one can teach what to do in every possible situation, but a good teacher can help you cultivate your imagination by describing his or her thought processes and how they read and plan a table.
Johnnyt
A Good Game.
A friend of mine snooker John use to play nine ball like this for practicing playing safe and for your kicking.You try to hook yourself every chance you get.Once you make the ball by kicking at it you just go to the next ball.
Remember play safe if you can hit it, and a ball can only be kicked in.
One game should take awhile....unless you kick like Efren.
Anthony
A friend of mine snooker John use to play nine ball like this for practicing playing safe and for your kicking.You try to hook yourself every chance you get.Once you make the ball by kicking at it you just go to the next ball.
Remember play safe if you can hit it, and a ball can only be kicked in.
One game should take awhile....unless you kick like Efren.
Anthony