Ya' know, the saddest part about you is that you do decent enough work. You don't have to make claims like how you are the only living person who can do something. I guarantee that I work with 50 guys who could do what you do, as well as you do it. We choose to, instead, design and build multi-million dollar CNC machines.
Your methods are clever and they obviously get results which are good enough for playing pool.
You claimed that you were '...level to .0010" everywhere...'. That is the same as saying that it is flat to 0.001". That is one-third of the thickness of a sheet of notebook paper. You don't have a method to measure that. I guarantee this because you would need nearly $100,000 in hardware to measure that. That wood will move more than 0.001" with a temperature change of only a few degrees.
Charlatan.
And...not to correct you or anything, but elevation and flatness iare two different things and are measured differntly. The starrett 8" machinist level reads to with in .0010 elevalion per 12" and that means the entire frame of the the table can read up or down, as long as its within those specs. Flatness is to read the entire frame of the table as one single flat plane, good luck acheving that with all your million dollars worth of equipment when it comes to leveling the frame of a missmatched GC when its made out of wood, then throw another 750lbs of weight on it and see what happens. The art of leveling a pool table is to compensate for the imperfections of the slate and frame to acheave an overall flat playing surface as to not roll off any balls. The flatter the frame, the less compensation is required to match the slate to it as to create a level surface. Who in the hell but a hack wants to use a thousand shims to compensate for a missmatched GC frame, as MOST used GCs have, and have the entire slate sitting above the frame sitting on wedges or shims?
See, your problem is you're to smart to work on pool tables. If someone with a Diamond table told you the table played great when i first bought it, but the rails play dead now...can you fix it? Well, as smart as you are, first thing you'd have to do is...research for cause and effect. 6 months later, you find out the rail bolts are loose, then 6 more months of research would be needed to determine why they came loose, then 3 more months to determine at what torque should they be tightened to. Then you'd have to spend another month determining the best way to tighten them, then spend 10 minutes doing it, and give tbe customer a bill for 1.2mil to cover all your research and development because after all, you do have to get paid right!!
I on the other hand would with all my years of experience tell the customer his rail bolts have come loose, common thing once a new.table has been set up for a while, then tell the customer what is needed to not only tighten the rail bolts, but to check them for tightness every couple of months until they stop coming loose, as far as my bill....no charge as i did it over the phone in my spare time:thumbup:
