My favorite borer
- Thread starter JoeyInCali
- Start date
I have been using the same for awhile now.....but use your router with that in it and see how well it bores......:thumbsup:
I have a tool post mounted Kress and two Makita adjustable die grinders.
I snagged two Makita's eons ago. They are a lot longer than Kress.
But, I like them better. Runs truer. Great for threading too.
I use the shorter versions like that in My mill all the time. I just bought a 1/4" 4 flute carbide mill for the slotting on My taper bars, but the flutes are shorter on It, when looking to buy one I saw the longer versions just like Yours, and was thinking the same thing as what You came up with, mainly because I thought the 1/4" may fit the router, and they seemed to have a good length for boring operations. I suppose I already knew in a way, but still Nice to know they will work well for sure before ordering one. Thanks for sharing.
Boeing Airplane Co. used to have a surplus store about 10 miles away from me , I could buy bits like that for $1.00 per lb . I have a few different sizes , but i should have bought a couple hundred lbs . Jim
Yes.
I spot drill with a 1/4 about 3/4 deep then follow with a regular drill to the depth.
Step up to .295" ( for 3/8 screws and shaft threads ).
Then bore.
Use gauge pins as needed.
As a supplementary question (ie not a hijack), has anyone ever user a rotabroach annular cutter in wood ? I used one for the first time to drill out the steel beams in my basement and was totally wow'd by these things. They have a unique cutting / flute geometry and work amazing in steel and I wondered if anyone had used them for wood.
http://www.rotabroach.co.uk/cutters
Rotabroach invented them but others make them I think.
Dave
http://www.rotabroach.co.uk/cutters
Rotabroach invented them but others make them I think.
Dave
RBC
Deceased
Joey
Just keep your hands out of them!
Seriously, I stuck one into the pointer finger of my right hand between the middle joint and the palm. They had to sew the tenons back together to get it to work again!
By the way, we've used these for boring for years. Clean, fast and accurate.
You can get them up to about 4" long if I recall.
Royce
Just keep your hands out of them!
Seriously, I stuck one into the pointer finger of my right hand between the middle joint and the palm. They had to sew the tenons back together to get it to work again!
By the way, we've used these for boring for years. Clean, fast and accurate.
You can get them up to about 4" long if I recall.
Royce
Yes, it helps.
Live tooling works great for boring in wood. This video shows a 3" long, 2 flute end mill used to install a joint pin in a sneaky pete. I start out with a 9/32" carbide drill & go straight to the end mill.
If you do, you'd be stuck to one ID.
I haven't tried mounting it on a boring bar holder, but I suppose that would work too. Like a D drill.
I don't mind having one size per operation
I'm going to look into it. Flat bottom too is a nice touch
I have used a 1/2" 4 flute carbide endmill in my tailstock when I needed a (shallow) flat bottom hole. I didn't have any problems.
I thought that is what everyone did. :thumbup:
Thanks for the postings by everyone. I haven't used live tooling for headstock operations.
Do you guys keep the tool parallel to the bed, or do you skew it slightly so that only the tip of it cuts (like a stationary boring bar)?
Thanks.
Do you guys keep the tool parallel to the bed, or do you skew it slightly so that only the tip of it cuts (like a stationary boring bar)?
Thanks.
I can't speak for everybody but I find that it cuts so clean, I align it parallel to the ways so I can use it for both internal & external machining.
If you're having a problem with a parallel setup, the logical answer is to tip it slightly.
Like most operations that are explained here - your mileage may vary. A little experimentation answers all questions and most importantly, answers them relative to YOUR machine & equipment.