Great repair work! Keep the sharing! And keep up the great work
Only thing I could say is try adding some" glue seats" when working with a non threaded tenon. Just cut some small ring notches down the tenon.My first tip install
- Thread starter SSDiver2112
- Start date
Great repair work! Keep the sharing! And keep up the great work
Only thing I could say is try adding some" glue seats" when working with a non threaded tenon. Just cut some small ring notches down the tenon.
SSDiver2112
Escott Cues
Thanks for the feedback. I’ve done that with the ferrule before. Should have thought to do that here.Great repair work! Keep the sharing! And keep up the great work
I burnish mine with some spit and a round piece of maple hardwood. I use the edge of the hardwood to press against the side of the tip, works great...
Jaden
Guy Manges
Registered
That squaring to the table is so important... I even see the pros blame their tip... Guy. Thank you Kelly for what you do, I hope the members here will let you do your good job... GuyMy advice to players new to the Thoroughbred tips is if you are normally used to using 2 tips of english on a shot, only use 1 tip of english to start. Most of the time that is all you will need. The only times I miscue is due to a poor stroke, stretched out or not chalking for several racks. Don't think about the tip, think about the shot.
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While cutting grooves, cut a couple lengthwise too. Amazing how much pressure you can build up if excess glue and the air has no place to go. Quite possible to split your female component. That particular piece, might have just been sure I drilled a through hole for the bumper screw before assembly. No big deal just one more thing to remember glue and air have to go somewhere.
I was quite pleased with myself when I cut a metal cap to an airtight fit. Then it turned out to be completely airtight, the air wouldn't even seep out over time. Pained me to have to true everything up in the lathe and cut a couple thousandths clearance full circle so the slick and shiney piece actually worked!
Hu
SSDiver2112
Escott Cues
Another good point. I realized the need for a relief slot after I got it all glued up and it started to rise out a little from the pressure. I managed to release the pressure by rotating and moving it around until it stopped pushing back. So far, no signs of a problem. I'll remember this for next time.
SSDiver2112
Escott Cues
Recently I was given two sneaky petes to re-tip. I ended up keeping the purpleheart one for myself, paid in trade . I figured I could leave it at my favorite local haunt, so if I just stop by and don't have my cue with me, I will have something nicer than a house cue to use. The more I thought about it the more I wanted to do something to it to make it uniquely mine.
This became my next "let's see if I can do it" project. At first, I was just going to add a linen butt cap to protect the bottom better, but then I decided to go all out and make a whole butt sleeve. I used Purpleheart, Yellowheart, black plastic and aluminum rings, and black linen for the buttcap and fat ring. I'm no hustler so removing the "sneakiness" wasn't an issue.
Well, I definitely learned many ways not to do this. Many of my ideas made this much harder than it should have been. I tried to build the entire sleeve, glue it together, and then shape and bore it as one piece. Keeping all the pieces lined up was a real pain. I was worried something was offset enough I wouldn't be able to shape it to the right diameter. I was able to round it off to a preliminary diameter, but while boring it, some of the pieces separated. I bored each piece and just reassembled on the tenon. I do not have a taper machine, so I got it to the final butt cap diameter and sanded the rest to the right taper.
I realize now (and should have from the start) that I need to just turn the wood blanks down to a rod, bore it out, and then cut off the pieces to size. Now it would be easier to assemble and glue on the tenon. Simple.
The other big thing I did wrong was not monitoring the finish close enough and sealed in some flaws between the layers. I ended up sanding it all off and started again.
It is almost done. Here are some pictures. I will add some final pictures as soon as I get back to it.
. I figured I could leave it at my favorite local haunt, so if I just stop by and don't have my cue with me, I will have something nicer than a house cue to use. The more I thought about it the more I wanted to do something to it to make it uniquely mine.This became my next "let's see if I can do it" project. At first, I was just going to add a linen butt cap to protect the bottom better, but then I decided to go all out and make a whole butt sleeve. I used Purpleheart, Yellowheart, black plastic and aluminum rings, and black linen for the buttcap and fat ring. I'm no hustler so removing the "sneakiness" wasn't an issue.
Well, I definitely learned many ways not to do this. Many of my ideas made this much harder than it should have been. I tried to build the entire sleeve, glue it together, and then shape and bore it as one piece. Keeping all the pieces lined up was a real pain. I was worried something was offset enough I wouldn't be able to shape it to the right diameter. I was able to round it off to a preliminary diameter, but while boring it, some of the pieces separated. I bored each piece and just reassembled on the tenon. I do not have a taper machine, so I got it to the final butt cap diameter and sanded the rest to the right taper.
I realize now (and should have from the start) that I need to just turn the wood blanks down to a rod, bore it out, and then cut off the pieces to size. Now it would be easier to assemble and glue on the tenon. Simple.
The other big thing I did wrong was not monitoring the finish close enough and sealed in some flaws between the layers. I ended up sanding it all off and started again.
It is almost done. Here are some pictures. I will add some final pictures as soon as I get back to it.
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Love it. Nice job
SSDiver2112
Escott Cues
Learn from the mistakes so you can better understand why the correct way, is the correct way.
The butt sleeve ended up turning out pretty nice. The techniques used to build it were wrong (as stated in the previous post), but the result is acceptable.
The finish however is a different story. After refinishing the backend of the cue, I realized the top half now had a totally different color of purple. The part I did on the bottom was revitalized to its more purplish glory, while the older top part had a brownish tint to it. I then had to strip off the top part and re-finish it too. The color is pretty close, but there is a noticeable color difference if you look. I had done another cue this way for a different reason and it worked out fine. Purpleheart must be a bit more sensitive. I need to get or make something to hold the butt in the lathe by the bumper hole so I can just finish the entire cue at once.
Another problem is the purple bled into the maple points. See the last two pictures below. If anyone has any suggestions for avoiding this, I would appreciate it. I didn't notice until after I was done and had the cue in my hands looking down the stick. When looking straight at the side it is much less noticeable, but at an angle you can see it more. I don't know if this was just dust getting in the wood or if the wood's dye actually bled over.
Although it wouldn't be acceptable if I was doing this for someone else, this is my cue and will be fine for my bar stick.
Purple bleed is less noticeable from straight on the side.
More noticeable at an angle
The butt sleeve ended up turning out pretty nice. The techniques used to build it were wrong (as stated in the previous post), but the result is acceptable.
The finish however is a different story. After refinishing the backend of the cue, I realized the top half now had a totally different color of purple. The part I did on the bottom was revitalized to its more purplish glory, while the older top part had a brownish tint to it. I then had to strip off the top part and re-finish it too. The color is pretty close, but there is a noticeable color difference if you look. I had done another cue this way for a different reason and it worked out fine. Purpleheart must be a bit more sensitive. I need to get or make something to hold the butt in the lathe by the bumper hole so I can just finish the entire cue at once.
Another problem is the purple bled into the maple points. See the last two pictures below. If anyone has any suggestions for avoiding this, I would appreciate it. I didn't notice until after I was done and had the cue in my hands looking down the stick. When looking straight at the side it is much less noticeable, but at an angle you can see it more. I don't know if this was just dust getting in the wood or if the wood's dye actually bled over.
Although it wouldn't be acceptable if I was doing this for someone else, this is my cue and will be fine for my bar stick.
Purple bleed is less noticeable from straight on the side.
More noticeable at an angle
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SSDiver2112
Escott Cues
Took it out for a spin last night. I decided not to put the weight bolt back in and try it out that way. It is at 17.8 so it is a fraction of an ounce less than my Pechauer I normally play with. It has a Medium UltraSkin Ivory tip. I am very impressed with the hit and feel of the cue. The cue's playability and curb appeal are a definite home run.
In addition to what I mentioned above I can further nitpick my first butt sleeve. When some of the pieces came apart while I was boring it, I forgot to realign the grain of the bottom purpleheart piece with the others and there is also a small spot on one black ring where the glue must have lifted off the ring leaving it a little foggy. These are small things that are not really noticeable unless you are up close and personal. Most people will never notice. I am definitely happy with the cue, just bothers me a bit because I want it to be perfect. Still a keeper though!
In addition to what I mentioned above I can further nitpick my first butt sleeve. When some of the pieces came apart while I was boring it, I forgot to realign the grain of the bottom purpleheart piece with the others and there is also a small spot on one black ring where the glue must have lifted off the ring leaving it a little foggy. These are small things that are not really noticeable unless you are up close and personal. Most people will never notice. I am definitely happy with the cue, just bothers me a bit because I want it to be perfect. Still a keeper though!
SSDiver2112
Escott Cues
Since I added the new butt to the Purpleheart Meucci (above) I’ve been looking for another cue to do something similar with or maybe try my hand at a joint pin by converting a one piece.
During my search/wait I’ve been continuing with tips and ferrules, and I even made a bocote ring for my girlfriend.
Finally, just what I was looking for. A busted up sneaky needing some love. With the help of AZB'ers it was identified as an old Huebler. The butt was all busted up so this was a perfect candidate for a new butt. Once I finally got the weight bolt out and saw what was under it, I had to figure out what wood and what design.
As a side note before I continue:
I settled on Snakewood and African Blackwood as the wood combination with aluminum rings and a brown linen phenolic butt plate, and setout planning the layout and structure, keeping in mind what I learned to not do from the other one I did. I wanted to incorporate the metal bumper cup just for the nostalgia, but in the end, I went without it for structural reasons. This time I did it right and turned the wood down to the right diameter and cored them to the size of the tenon and then cut them into the individual pieces.
In creating the tenon some of the length was lost where the metal cup was located. I didn't want to just glue the butt plate out on the end without any support. Using black phenolic I made an extension insert to bridge between the end of the tenon and butt plate to give it some support.
Before and after.
After replacing the ferrule with a new Tomohawk and an Ultraskin medium Fire tip, I took it for a spin last night to see how it plays. I know I probably should have tried it out before putting work into it but with the reputation Huebler has, I figured I would take a chance. The tip is 11.85mm I play with a 12.75mm normally and have never played with a smaller tip before. I can say the feel and sound of the hit is very nice. The thinner shaft did feel less stiff than I am used to, but I defiantly give this cue a thumbs up. Now I just need to decide on the finish for the cue. Thanks for looking.
Note: this picture is before finish.
During my search/wait I’ve been continuing with tips and ferrules, and I even made a bocote ring for my girlfriend.
Finally, just what I was looking for. A busted up sneaky needing some love. With the help of AZB'ers it was identified as an old Huebler. The butt was all busted up so this was a perfect candidate for a new butt. Once I finally got the weight bolt out and saw what was under it, I had to figure out what wood and what design.
As a side note before I continue:
- Can anyone tell me what kind of wood the cue is made of? My guess is walnut, but I don't know enough.
- I have had good success with CA as a finish. In my searches have seen many recommending Solarez. I would like to hear any opinions on the matter.
- And as a curiosity other than going from a broken to a fixed cue, does this type of modification increase or decrease the value?
I settled on Snakewood and African Blackwood as the wood combination with aluminum rings and a brown linen phenolic butt plate, and setout planning the layout and structure, keeping in mind what I learned to not do from the other one I did. I wanted to incorporate the metal bumper cup just for the nostalgia, but in the end, I went without it for structural reasons. This time I did it right and turned the wood down to the right diameter and cored them to the size of the tenon and then cut them into the individual pieces.
In creating the tenon some of the length was lost where the metal cup was located. I didn't want to just glue the butt plate out on the end without any support. Using black phenolic I made an extension insert to bridge between the end of the tenon and butt plate to give it some support.
Before and after.
After replacing the ferrule with a new Tomohawk and an Ultraskin medium Fire tip, I took it for a spin last night to see how it plays. I know I probably should have tried it out before putting work into it but with the reputation Huebler has, I figured I would take a chance. The tip is 11.85mm I play with a 12.75mm normally and have never played with a smaller tip before. I can say the feel and sound of the hit is very nice. The thinner shaft did feel less stiff than I am used to, but I defiantly give this cue a thumbs up. Now I just need to decide on the finish for the cue. Thanks for looking.
Note: this picture is before finish.
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Great project. Pretty nice work. Looking forward to your “pinning” conversation.
Your lathe does not have a taper bar? I’m asking.
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you are a wise man
SSDiver2112
Escott Cues
I was hoping to get an answer to the questions in my last post about the Huebler repair.
Especially: Can anyone tell me what kind of wood the cue is made of?
Walnut maybe?
Especially: Can anyone tell me what kind of wood the cue is made of?
Walnut maybe?
SSDiver2112
Escott Cues
I do not have a taper bar. Wish I did and probably will when I can afford it.
I sanded the taper by checking with a straight edge against the cue.
SSDiver2112
Escott Cues
After more research I decided to finish the cue with CA. I am still interested in Solarez, but I am lacking all the equipment and setup to do it right. I will work my way up to that as I can afford it.
Your work looks great. I know your lathe does not have one.. just checking how you turned to dimension. I want to convert a house cue
without a taper bar. Joint and custom butt cap. Anyway keep up the beautiful work. It’s classy, custom and one of a kind.
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BuffaloSlim
Active member
Lookin good Diver .. good job
SSDiver2112
Escott Cues
Lots of starting and stopping to check the taper with a straight edge and to measure the butt cap with the calipers until I was satisfied. Probably not up to cue maker standards, but I am happy with the results.