Opinions: what is the best playing wood for a cue?

wambamcam

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I'm sure this has been discussed before, but the search function on az stinks, and I couldn't find any threads on this.

I'm contemplating another cue, and was wondering what people though about the best playing wood? I've heard from some that ebony is a hit or miss material, but it's my favorite as far as look goes.

Thoughts?
 
I'm sure this has been discussed before, but the search function on az stinks, and I couldn't find any threads on this.

I'm contemplating another cue, and was wondering what people though about the best playing wood? I've heard from some that ebony is a hit or miss material, but it's my favorite as far as look goes.

Thoughts?

I too like ebony wood in cues. Though I would say the cue maker is a more important choice. Many construction methods involve coring the exotic woods and filling that space with another wood type like maple or purple heart.

My advice and it's free so disregard if you so choose. Find a cue maker who makes cues with the hit you like and that you also trust.

Then, consult with them on wood choices based on their selection and construction methods and pick something you like. There is no magic cue, no magic wood. Personally I would be sure to have them build you a set of shafts that you will like as opposed to buying a 3rd party shaft. After all the custom cue should be built for you, not built to flip or to have half of it sitting in your closet never to be used.
 
For me I like hardwoods on the forearm.Ebony,hard curly,Cocobolo,
Bacote,tulipwood,African Blackwood and Rosewood are my favorites that seem to give that proper sound and tone that resonates through the cue when striking the cueball.Softer forearm wood seems to lessen the feel
and stability in what I like in a cue.Goodluck
 
Maple. It is the wood of choice for many reasons.
(1). Relatively low cost.
(2). High strength to weight ratio.
(3). High resistance to warpage.
(4). Ease in machining.
(5). Some pieces are highly decorative.
I could go on, but my chicken pot pie is in the oven waiting for me. :smile:
 
Wood

I used to have a custom with Mexican Bacote and African Padauk, and it played real well, plus my cuemaker told me that Bacote was a good wood because it is dense.

I do not understand what everyone's obsession with ebony is?
 
I used to have a custom with Mexican Bacote and African Padauk, and it played real well, plus my cuemaker told me that Bacote was a good wood because it is dense.

I do not understand what everyone's obsession with ebony is?
Ebony and African Blackwood are highly regarded woods
in the making of musical instruments and have a great tone.For pool cues
it might be that nice black ebony compliments many veneer colors as well
as giving that solid feel without going to just maple and having to stain it black.
 
From what I have been told by cuemaker friends of mine, rosewoods are very good playing woods for cues.

Rosewoods include Bacote, Cocobola, and African Blackwood.

Purpleheart and straight grained maple rank high on their lists too.

I have a number of Ebony and Maple cues that I love, but I will soon be getting an African Blackwood cue, with an Ambonya handle that is cored with Purpleheart.

I cannot wait to see how it plays.
 
Here's a couple that I like......: :thumbup:

1-1-9.jpg
 
do you think if you ask that question in the "ask the cuemaker" forum you might get an educated answer???:rolleyes:
just sayin
:thumbup:
 
If you asked this question in the Ask the Cue Maker forum, you would get
both the same and possibly different answers as in the Main forum.

Same goes for asking in the Cue and Case Gallery.

Just because a person doesn't build cues doesn't make some or many any less qualified to give an opinion.

When a person has a custom cue made, they are made based on the type of wood they like in a cue. That and in part, the cue maker that they have chosen to make the cue. In that respect, the type of construction techniques used by that maker as well as woods that he has chosen for coring, handle wood etc.

The maker, has most definitely over the years experimented with different wood combinations and thru trial and error, mistakes etc, has come to the conclusion of what works best for them.

As many makers that will agree on certain types of woods and what works best or better, you will find just as many that will have varying opinions on other materials. Can of Worms, right? If every maker used the same woods and techniques in building, it would get
pretty boring quickly wouldn't it.

Makers do share knowledge so in my opinion, the art of cue making will always be evolving as knowledge and new techniques are experimented with and shared.

So, the person that owns the custom cue, knows what materials were used in constructing their cues and have just as much a qualified opinion
of what works and what doesn't, at least for them in any particular cue that they have or are using at the moment.

They might not have a broader range of knowledge concerning all the materials used in cue making, but, like I mentioned, they know what works for them in many instances. That said, I'm sure there are many players and collectors that have experimented with the use of different woods based on personal preferences.

So, just because you are not physically making the cue yourself, doesn't mean that both players and collectors have not studied
different species of woods and are knowledgeable about them.

The reason different wood types are used in construction range from aesthetics, adding or reducing weight, guarding against warpage when using lighter more unstable woods and exotics.

Then you get into the personal preferences of the makers re the matching of woods, including the use of even exotic woods for use as core woods.

The makers personal preferences will be based on years of trial and errors.
 
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do you think if you ask that question in the "ask the cuemaker" forum you might get an educated answer???:rolleyes:
just sayin
:thumbup:

Yep.... you could ask the cuemaker that owns that buckeye and redwood. :thumbup: I mean if you like burl...
 
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If you asked this question in the Ask the Cue Maker forum, you would get
both the same and possibly different answers as in the Main forum.

Same goes for asking in the Cue and Case Gallery.

Just because a person doesn't build cues doesn't make some or many any less qualified to give an opinion.

When a person has a custom cue made, they are made based on the type of wood they like in a cue. That and in part, the cue maker that they have chosen to make the cue. In that respect, the type of construction techniques used by that maker as well as woods that he has chosen for coring, handle wood etc.

The maker, has most definitely over the years experimented with different wood combinations and thru trial and error, mistakes etc, has come to the conclusion of what works best for them.

As many makers that will agree on certain types of woods and what works best or better, you will find just as many that will have varying opinions on other materials. Can of Worms, right? If every maker used the same woods and techniques in building, it would get
pretty boring quickly wouldn't it.

Makers do share knowledge so in my opinion, the art of cue making will always be evolving as knowledge and new techniques are experimented with and shared.

So, the person that owns the custom cue, knows what materials were used in constructing their cues and have just as much a qualified opinion
of what works and what doesn't, at least for them in any particular cue that they have or are using at the moment.

They might not have a broader range of knowledge concerning all the materials used in cue making, but, like I mentioned, they know what works for them in many instances. That said, I'm sure there are many players and collectors that have experimented with the use of different woods based on personal preferences.

So, just because you are not physically making the cue yourself, doesn't mean that both players and collectors have not studied
different species of woods and are knowledgeable about them.

The reason different wood types are used in construction range from aesthetics, adding or reducing weight, guarding against warpage when using lighter more unstable woods and exotics.

Then you get into the personal preferences of the makers re the matching of woods, including the use of even exotic woods for use as core woods.

The makers personal preferences will be based on years of trial and errors.

I definitely understand your perspective. I guess what I'm sorta trying to get to is this- if I ask a cuemaker to make me the "best" playing cue possible, regardless of design or price, I would like to know what type of wood he would pick.

I've always been fond of ebony, curly maple, and cocobolo with my past cues. They've seemed to play very well. Actually, my current playing cue is a Josey BEM and purple heart sneaky, and I absolutely love the way it plays.
 
Actually, my current playing cue is a Josey BEM and purple heart sneaky, and I absolutely love the way it plays.

I have a Lee Peppers PH/BEM 4-pointer (veneers) that plays VERY good!!!

My main player (Larry Vigus) has a wenge forearm and buttsleeve with a curly maple handle.

I like the hit of both of these combinations.

Maniac
 
I find it truly amazing that folks are worried about the wood in the butt of the cue materially affecting the playability.

I saw a guy in college beat a very good opponent with a MOP HANDLE:eek:

No tip, he chalked the wooden end of the handle:D

Just saying that there are more important things to worry about to improve your game:cool:
 
I find it truly amazing that folks are worried about the wood in the butt of the cue materially affecting the playability.

I saw a guy in college beat a very good opponent with a MOP HANDLE:eek:

No tip, he chalked the wooden end of the handle:D

Just saying that there are more important things to worry about to improve your game:cool:

I don't think anyone is literally "worried" about woods, and the OP was just looking for our "thoughts". I chose the woods on my main player from the suggestion of the cuemaker, and lo and behold, it not only came out looking GREAT, but played very well also!!!

FWIW, I found that most "very good" players in college turn out to be not as good as advertised ;). I'm sure the guy that won with the "MOP HANDLE" probably paid his way through college by playing pool too, right???

Maniac (just playin' with ya thommy!)
 
Padauk. A cue has to have padauk in it to play well! I have enough padauk to build about 400 cues. So if you need some for a cue, table legs, dog house just let me know.

Larry
 
No, I think he was a business major. There wasn't any money to be made in Pullman Washington in the late 60s. the town was 20,000 during the school year and the school was 12000 of them!!

I played a little back then and could recognize who could shoot, these two guys were the best on campus. One guy was just way better, even with a mop handle. He took the mop off though:D

I don't EVER mind anyone messing with me:thumbup:
 
Best Player: Full splice ebony into straight-grain maple, 4 veneers, ivory 5/16x14 piloted joint, optional inlay. Some will play it better than others. :D
 
Ive always heard any fine grained wood will play amazingly because of the way it resonates (feel and Feedback) which is of course subjective.

I personally like a cue that has a nice ping tones to it when I stroke the cue ball, vibrations are part of the (feel) I like but honestly I think you can make a great PLAYER out of any wood, just as long as the shaft ferrule and tip are tuned in correctly.

Please correct me if i'm wrong, but a great player to someone might be like hitting with a piece of ply wood for me... Just saying.
 
my humble opinion;

i use now an uncored ebony forearm; great sound, resonance and feel :thumbup:
i also tried out a purpleheart player; great hit and sound too :)

these two, along with cocobolo, are my favorites as forearmwoods. they give a "deeper" sound which i appreciate
 
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