if u spray clearcoat properly u will not need much to very little sanding , finish should be glasslike with very little FLA , sand with 6 to 800 then 1500 to 200 then polish , diffrent clears flow diffrent , i use Chroma , ....
Pre Coat Epoxy???
- Thread starter kiinstructor
- Start date
Hey, just because you do high end body work for a living doesn't make you an expert on finishing. It matters not what the material manufacturers recommend. They're not cue makers. Being educated on the subject, having vast experience with the subject, and depending on your knowledge & skill with the subject as a means of making your living, doesn't make you a subject matter expert. No sir it does not! Making 6 cues out of prefab components in your spare bedroom & using epoxy to smother them is what makes you know your sh!t. This is AZ, mister. We have zero tolerance for absolute truth, simply won't have it. So next time you think actual experience & education & expertise is relevant, you better check yourself.
When you are able to glitter dirt all over your finish & use it as an example to show how awesome you are, then you may have something to offer the forums. Until then, you're not hack enough.
I regret giving it away now.
Nobody has ever mentioned using red pad on epoxy coat before
spraying with clear here iirc.
Works on CA finish on shafts too for repair jobs.
Randy,
I never thought to use a S Pad after I spray my clear coat as I start my wet sanding at 1200. I personally use a 2x speed clear with a flow enhancer and I don't have any orange peel or stipple to knock down on my clear coat after spraying.
I am not knocking any method that produces a high end deep luster in the end.
Does the auto shops use the pad on the color before clear or do they use them after the clear coat is applied?
I am curious,
Rick
Nobody said you use it on final finish.
The thread title is Pre-coat epoxy.
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A CA finish shouldn't require scuffing between coats. Unlike urethane or epoxy, cyano adheres quite well to itself. It fascinates me how different finishes require their own techniques. I by no means am qualified to discuss in much detail how to finish a cue, as I'm very much still learning. I do an acceptable finish that's shiny & clear, but man some of you guys make a cue glow. When somebody like Randy with such a specific expertise speaks, I listen closely & make notes, rather than argue. Just little things like the passing talk of different grit pads gives me a lot of ammo for experimentation, which no doubt will ultimately advance my finish. So thank yall for sharing stuff like that.
Oops, I meant on the epoxy base coat before applying the thin CA
I've never done pure CA finish really.
Tnx.
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Let me digress here a bit and be more specific. The pads are only for scuffing, not for leveling. Scuffing between coats, not for leveling. They save a heck of alot of time, last longer, and are easier to use for that operation. I'd never consider using paper anymore.
Also, I've never painted a car(sprayed a 55 foot boat once though) and don't claim to be an expert on finishing. I have worked at a body shop for a couple of years and learned different things that are useful. I don't want to convey something I'm not.
I fish, scour CL and Ebay for deals, talk trash, and make cues....my expertise is listed in that order. Working in the boating industry exposes a person to just about every aspect we use here. Adhesives, epoxies, paints, construction methods.
I've learned alot from many good people here and like to contribute in any way I can. What I said to Rick was not meant to be pompous or condescending, but his info was incorrect.
I truly think you have to hate yourself to do CA....I really do..
It is nasty. So, I limit it to repairs only.
Doesn't take much on shaft collars after epoxy coat.
Good thing about shaft collars is , you can heat that portion to quick dry epoxy and not fear warpage.
Just make a heat box to fit that portion.
Scuff the next day, then a few coats of CA.
There are varieties of epoxy of course. Low odor ones and cynapoxy .
I quit testing them already.
I just use thin loctite when I have to. Which is very seldom.
Randy,
I use both the red and the green for different things just never needed to use them on the clear coat. That was the point I was making to my friend Kim as I know he has his method down pat.
Atlas sells them I was just there last week and stocked up. I am a pad type of guy. LOL:thumbup:
Rick
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OK. I guess I misread what you wrote. I appreciate your opinion.
The pads are just so much faster, better, and cheaper, for scuffing between coats. It's a money saver.
10-4 on the pads for sure.
And I guess I was wrong if Royce uses it after the UV. I have seen his cues and the finish is awesome.
Lot of ways to skin a cat, as they say.
Rick
On the off chance that some might want use on of the various grades of steel wool - a favorite furniture workers' tool - you should be aware that it comes from the factory treated with oil. This is to prevent it from rusting on the store shelves in humid locations.
I like steel wool for certain applications, and it works very well for between-coat scuffing on certain types of cues. So, as per most knowledgeable furniture guys, I rinse mine in solvent multiple times and let it evaporate off before shelving it in my finish area.
I also use Scotchbrite pads (red and gray) but have found the steel wool invaluable for certain between-coat uses.
TW
Good info - thanks.
