I do something similar by setting my compound at a ninety when cutting them and just slightly widening threads instead of going deeper to get them to fit.
Shaft plug materials?
- Thread starter Kim Bye
- Start date
I do something similar by setting my compound at a ninety when cutting them and just slightly widening threads instead of going deeper to get them to fit.
YES I AM.......I FIXED IT FOR FREE SO THE LESS TIME AND WORK FOR ME THE BETTER... AND NO I DON'T THINK THERE WILL BE A LASTING EFFECT. THE THREADS WILL PROBABLY FULLY STRIP OUT IN THE FUTURE
Kim
I'm not looking to make a lead screw type of attachment. Looking to make an actual jig. Something that you either put in the lathe headstock or something that slides into the taig lathe bed. A quick tightening of one screw or the jaws on the lathe and the jig is secure. No drilling needed type of jig. Of course if I design it for being held in the jaws of the headstock chuck, then it'll also be allowed to be used in any lathe. Designing it for the taig lathe bed narrows the possible buyers even more. I know there is at least one idea like mine out there that was sold here on AZB. It was limited to 18tpi only. I'm looking to advance that basic concept to allow more use than just for ferrule installs.
http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=351000
mickey mouse threader
cost a couple bucks for dremel bit
everything else I had laying around
mickey mouse threader
cost a couple bucks for dremel bit
everything else I had laying around
So far I've been satisfied using phenolic for threaded inserts I make using a normal 1/2-13 die,cutting the OD down to .485. I drill them out with an A drill before I thread,so it leaves me room to bore and release extra epoxy at the same time.
It's been a while since I did it,but my original shop instructor was the kind of guy that wouldn't let you leave the shop on graduation or call yourself a skilled lathe operator in his presence until you could chase threads using a single-point tool. In his eyes,stuff like that was just mastering the machine in front of you.
In fact,once you had actually made a screw as part of the course,you didn't get to go any further in the course until you passed his test which was removing your cutter in front of you and telling you to pick the thread back up because it was covered in the bookwork so you should know how.
For the biggest part of my time in school,this meant doing it on OLD American iron South Bend or their later Taiwan counterparts that the instructor said were worn out back when he took the same course himself in the early 80's.
Once the technique is shown to you,it's not much more complicated than setting up to cut a screw normally.
Doing it with live tooling may add another dimension however. Tommy D.
It's been a while since I did it,but my original shop instructor was the kind of guy that wouldn't let you leave the shop on graduation or call yourself a skilled lathe operator in his presence until you could chase threads using a single-point tool. In his eyes,stuff like that was just mastering the machine in front of you.
In fact,once you had actually made a screw as part of the course,you didn't get to go any further in the course until you passed his test which was removing your cutter in front of you and telling you to pick the thread back up because it was covered in the bookwork so you should know how.
For the biggest part of my time in school,this meant doing it on OLD American iron South Bend or their later Taiwan counterparts that the instructor said were worn out back when he took the same course himself in the early 80's.
Once the technique is shown to you,it's not much more complicated than setting up to cut a screw normally.
Doing it with live tooling may add another dimension however. Tommy D.
Totally different meaning of thread chasing. The thread chasing I'm referring to, and what I believe Dave was referring to, is cutting threads by hand on a wood lathe. You do it pass by pass, with the tool in your hand, not in a tool post. It's completely different than picking up threads on a metal lathe. Apples & oranges.
I kinda thought you probably had a different meaning or technique because I wondered how you make as nice of a cue as you do :thumbup: and not know how to chase threads using the compound like you would on a metal screw.
Once again,I've picked up something new,with no drama attached as well
.
Once again,I've picked up something new,with no drama attached as well
.
I kinda thought you probably had a different meaning or technique because I wondered how you make as nice of a cue as you do :thumbup: and not know how to chase threads using the compound like you would on a metal screw.
Once again,I've picked up something new,with no drama attached as well
I may be speaking out of turn, but for clarity, I don't think anyone including Eric uses the ancient art of "thread chasing" (as in the link I posted) in making pool cues.
Sorry for any confusion I may have created with my side-bar comment about thread chasing as a threading method.
Dave
I kinda thought you probably had a different meaning or technique because I wondered how you make as nice of a cue as you do :thumbup: and not know how to chase threads using the compound like you would on a metal screw.
Once again,I've picked up something new,with no drama attached as well
Hahaha cue making is only part machining. But yeah, I learned to follow threads when I was prolly 15yrs old. Learned on an old Logan. Got a new appreciation for the technique when I was 19 I think, doing some valve refurbishment for a nuclear power plant. I had to fabricate a face plate to mount the valve faces to, center it in a 4-jaw, then follow the opposite internal threads to clean them up for refit to the pipe nipple. For days I did nothing else but stand at that lathe, refacing one side & thread following the other. The plants would schedule a shutdown every three years for actuator & valve overhaul, whether it was needed or not. The older guys got to suit up & go in for disassembly. I was the kid so I got stuck with the b!tch work :lmao:
That's a safe bet. What Tommy was referring to is a completely different animal, just shares a common term.
I thought that when you cut threads in a hole you are tapping a hole..... if you are using a tap.
Chasing threads is cleaning out or straightening out existing threads with a thread chaser.... usually a threaded object with a flat side or 2 to clean threads and not cut the threads deeper............
Kim
Chasing threads is cleaning out or straightening out existing threads with a thread chaser.... usually a threaded object with a flat side or 2 to clean threads and not cut the threads deeper............
Kim
Ever try tapping a 6" diameter hole? Even if they made a tap for it, how would you ever hold on to it, let alone ensure the threads are cut straight? The thing would weigh 100lbs or more. You cut internal threads with a single point, just as you do with external threads. It 'can' be a different tool bit, but not necessarily.
As for thread chasing, in wood turning it is the technique used to cut threads. They call it chasing because you have to be skilled enough to relocate the tool over & over to the exact same position, by hand, while the lathe is spinning. In metal working, it means to use a single point in following threads to clean up any burrs or chunks, remove debris, etc. to clean up the already existing threads. It means to sync the gear box with the workpiece so that the bit follows the already existing threads rather than cutting new ones.
I'm working on one now for myself. Just buy a piece of hex rod, drill and tap for whatever tpi you want to use. Make a hex cutout in the back of the piece that fits in the headstock jaws and have a different insert (to hold the shaft arbor, etc) with threaded rod with that particular thread. You don't need to use cue specific sizes, just the right tpi.
I don't know how I missed this before when you posted. That's much simpler.
Thanks for all the stuff you share, Chuck, I've learned a lot from your posts.
Here's a scenario.
You get a shaft for repair with a busted ferrule.
The ferrule is threaded .
You machine out the ferrule down to the tenon .
The tenon is threaded and the ferrule was epoxied with a real quality epoxy .
Chase the threads by placing that miller on the epoxy, lock the thread gear.
Re-thread.
Voila!
Didn't have to replace the tenon.
That's prolly the most common scenario as it relates to cues.
I'm with Joey on this one ... Wood has it over phenolic as to hit and feel ... and Bocote has a great texture.
Willee
Once the ferrule is removed, I usually use a dental pick heated with a torch and just run it along the threads, turning the chuck by hand. It takes less than 2 minutes and a couple repeated heating of the pick, but all the epoxy gets removed but it leaves everything intact, no matter what TPI was used on the tenon. There are a few odd threads out there that one may not have the proper tool to chase them with.
Dave
As soon as I get my Weiss, I`ll try different woods, plastics and Phenolic and see if I can make a comparison chart.
There seems to be some strong feelings about this topic, so it would be cool to break it down in a more scientific way.
Please add to the list:
Plastics:
ABS
Delrin
Nylon
Phenolic
Woods:
Maple
Purpleheart
Yellowheart
Olive wood
Bacote
There seems to be some strong feelings about this topic, so it would be cool to break it down in a more scientific way.
Please add to the list:
Plastics:
ABS
Delrin
Nylon
Phenolic
Woods:
Maple
Purpleheart
Yellowheart
Olive wood
Bacote