The Gulyassy stuff shaft freeze is real good. Mike is also a good player from back in the day he just lives kinda far from Columbus. Good luck
Shaft
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The Gulyassy stuff shaft freeze is real good. Mike is also a good player from back in the day he just lives kinda far from Columbus. Good luck
1. Magic eraser. Use clean part of eraser to wipe, otherwise you are using dirt to wipe off dirt.
2. Rub carnauba wax on with microfiber cloth. Easy on the wax.
3. Burnish with Burnisher from whatever online store. Careful not to get it hot from friction.
Wash your glove, and keep your hands clean.
Wipe off your shaft before you put it away.
Or just play and to hell with the dirt.
2. Rub carnauba wax on with microfiber cloth. Easy on the wax.
3. Burnish with Burnisher from whatever online store. Careful not to get it hot from friction.
Wash your glove, and keep your hands clean.
Wipe off your shaft before you put it away.
Or just play and to hell with the dirt.
I like the dirt
But for some reason with my glove there is a lot more dirt about 6 in or so in the middle of the shaft
That sounds like dirt from your glove or oils from your other hand. Is that where you hold your cue when your not shooting?
Just for the heck of it wash your glove with soap and water. If you've used it for a while you won't believe how dirty it got! Use regular bar soap and wash it under a tap.
It's from my pre shot
cleaning
Use rubbing alcohol with your magic eraser. It will raise the grain and feel rough. When it dries - just hit it with a dry magic eraser and it will smooth out. Then wax it.
Use rubbing alcohol with your magic eraser. It will raise the grain and feel rough. When it dries - just hit it with a dry magic eraser and it will smooth out. Then wax it.
Cue Buddy, it is Mike Gulyassy that developed the shaft sealer. I believe that with that particular finish, it might be hard to get the shaft dirty.
Is Mike in Alaska.
Heres one tho, Much simpler to clean and wax the shaft once. Carry 2 gloves in case
one gets dirty from chalk. Wash the used glove in the sink with a little laundry soap after every session.
If you are talking actual wood stain, I supposed that it is possible to bare the wood and apply a few coats of lighter brown, or which ever color you'd like.
When you stain a piece of wood, it is usually finished with a gloss coat. Keeping the shaft waxed extra well would probably be necessary.
Somehow I don't think that you mean actual wood stain.
I have one shaft that I got with a cue from Lee Pepper. He finished the entire shaft with CA glue. I've not had it get dirty or gritty feeling yet. And if it did, I doubt it would take much more than a wipe with a wet towel to clean it. Dinging that shaft might be a hassle as larger dings would have to be refinished somewhat.
Or use Kamui chalk. I hear that you only have to chalk once a year. True Story.
Take glove off before wiping bum. There is a player in town that I nick named, "The Sleeve". It involved him using the washroom at a bar with his jacket on.
After, when he was drinking his beer, he kept telling everyone that his beer smelled skunky. Wipe with right hand, drink beer with right hand. Now that is a very True Story.
Is Mike in Alaska.
Heres one tho, Much simpler to clean and wax the shaft once. Carry 2 gloves in case
one gets dirty from chalk. Wash the used glove in the sink with a little laundry soap after every session.
If you are talking actual wood stain, I supposed that it is possible to bare the wood and apply a few coats of lighter brown, or which ever color you'd like.
When you stain a piece of wood, it is usually finished with a gloss coat. Keeping the shaft waxed extra well would probably be necessary.
Somehow I don't think that you mean actual wood stain.
I have one shaft that I got with a cue from Lee Pepper. He finished the entire shaft with CA glue. I've not had it get dirty or gritty feeling yet. And if it did, I doubt it would take much more than a wipe with a wet towel to clean it. Dinging that shaft might be a hassle as larger dings would have to be refinished somewhat.
Or use Kamui chalk. I hear that you only have to chalk once a year. True Story.
Take glove off before wiping bum. There is a player in town that I nick named, "The Sleeve". It involved him using the washroom at a bar with his jacket on.
After, when he was drinking his beer, he kept telling everyone that his beer smelled skunky. Wipe with right hand, drink beer with right hand. Now that is a very True Story.
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I use an LD shaft. Here is what I do, and not a problem.
1) Magic Eraser - dip in in water and ring it out very good.
2) Scrub shaft with ME
3) Wipe down with clean dry towel
4) Let it dry for 10 mins
5) Use 1500 Grit Sandpaper, and go easy with it. Just knocking down the fibers.
6) Use 3000 Grit Sandpaper, and polish very well.
7) Wipe cue down with clean cloth
8) Burnish with a piece of leather.... work it good.
9) That's it. I don't use wax or anything else, feels like a piece of glass, and clean as a whistle and it stays clean for months and then repeat as needed.
I just use the magic eraser, no wax, no sandpaper. The eraser is so easy to use, takes 30 seconds to wipe down, then dry it and I'm done. If my hands get sweaty I use finger slides instead of gloves. Keeps the cue cleaner, and I can feel the rest of my hand.
http://www.cuezctc.com/
http://www.cuezctc.com/
I finish my shafts with CA also, I think it hardens the surface to a certain extent and makes it a little less prone to dings. Thanks for the info on Gulyassy and as far as the last paragraph....are you certain he wasn't drinking St Pauli Girl ?
Wow
All the different answers.
I strongly suggest that you do not us anything wet to clean a predator shaft.......
The same goes for any kind of sand paper.
I really don't like putting anything petro base on a predator shaft, like carnauba wax.
Buy a can of Meguiar's ultimate paste wax it is pure synthetic polymer from your local auto parts store.
http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Ultimate-Paste-Wax-oz/dp/B004HCS4PK
It takes extra long to dry, point is use the wax to clean the shaft.
The wax will push out allot of grit and grim. And will act kind of like a sealer, You will just have to wax more often.
then let the wax dry on the shaft overnight and buff out. repeat waxing until the shaft is smooth.
There is nothing that I have suggested that cannot be un done.
Except you are out 20 bucks for wax.
I think it is to late to try to seal with 50/50 shellac and alcohol.
I don't like the idea of laminated wood and alcohol. < looks like trouble to me >
The polymer wax will work if you give it a chance.
MMike
All the different answers.
I strongly suggest that you do not us anything wet to clean a predator shaft.......
The same goes for any kind of sand paper.
I really don't like putting anything petro base on a predator shaft, like carnauba wax.
Buy a can of Meguiar's ultimate paste wax it is pure synthetic polymer from your local auto parts store.
http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Ultimate-Paste-Wax-oz/dp/B004HCS4PK
It takes extra long to dry, point is use the wax to clean the shaft.
The wax will push out allot of grit and grim. And will act kind of like a sealer, You will just have to wax more often.
then let the wax dry on the shaft overnight and buff out. repeat waxing until the shaft is smooth.
There is nothing that I have suggested that cannot be un done.
Except you are out 20 bucks for wax.
I think it is to late to try to seal with 50/50 shellac and alcohol.
I don't like the idea of laminated wood and alcohol. < looks like trouble to me >
The polymer wax will work if you give it a chance.
MMike
Gloves are for sissy's. Throw that thing away. Or, go the other extreme and get a pink glove. That way it will be closer to the color of the maple.
