The L Drill

its a great drill and not just for one pocket.......the other you show on your site from david the "crucifix" is a great pratice method also.

you def get shape like a one pocket player brother :p:thumbup:

good shootin,
-Grey Ghost-
 
its a great drill and not just for one pocket.......the other you show on your site from david the "crucifix" is a great pratice method also.

you def get shape like a one pocket player brother :p:thumbup:

good shootin,
-Grey Ghost-

Thanks bud. I noticed playing other games like 9 ball I am playing position for one pocket, haha.
 
You could do a lot of variations with that drill as well... like hit no rails or alternate pockets. In fact, you could drive yourself completely mad with that drill. :D
 
You could do a lot of variations with that drill as well... like hit no rails or alternate pockets. In fact, you could drive yourself completely mad with that drill. :D

Yes I have heard of the no rails and also doing it in rotation, lots of possibilities to vary the difficulty of it.
 
This is my favorite drill. Its a variation of Joe Tucker's Guaranteed Improvement #2 drill. This drill will teach you a TON on 1 rail position play in close quarters, and how to handle all the angle variations. I keep my score on this, and compete against myself.


CueTable Help

 
I also keep score when I use this drill. I play a set to ten and then figure my average. When I first start this drill my number of balls in a row will average four to five, after several hours I will be up to six to seven.

On my Olhausen I could run this four or five times in ten tries but my Diamond is way tougher, if I run two in ten I am tickled.
 
Great drill. Practicing / drilling is the best way to get better, most people just go play, hard to learn much that way.
 
Original post on 1pkt.org...

I learned this drill from Peter Rabbit Linhardt in the 60s. Peter would shoot them in rotation, as you did, and not touch another ball, as you did, and he would bet even money that he could do it every time.
The only criticism I have of your run is that you wound up far away from your work a few times and you went to more than one rail often. When running the first line you should only come off of the short rail, and not have to go to the long rail; and when you get to the second line you should try to only use the long rail.
That means you have to get the correct angle every time, and you will be operating much closer to your work. That is balkline type position, and not many players are comfortable with it.

A hint for those trying to run off the first line using only one rail: To maintain the correct angle you must play the cue ball to land in the line of the THIRD ball rather than the next ball in the sequence. Example: If you had them lined up in rotation you would shoot the one ball to get straight in on the three ball, which would give you the correct angle on the two ball, then shoot the two to get straight in on the four to get you right on the three and so on.


Beard

It's a fabulous one pocket drill
 
I learned this drill from Peter Rabbit Linhardt in the 60s. Peter would shoot them in rotation, as you did, and not touch another ball, as you did, and he would bet even money that he could do it every time.
The only criticism I have of your run is that you wound up far away from your work a few times and you went to more than one rail often. When running the first line you should only come off of the short rail, and not have to go to the long rail; and when you get to the second line you should try to only use the long rail.
That means you have to get the correct angle every time, and you will be operating much closer to your work. That is balkline type position, and not many players are comfortable with it.

A hint for those trying to run off the first line using only one rail: To maintain the correct angle you must play the cue ball to land in the line of the THIRD ball rather than the next ball in the sequence. Example: If you had them lined up in rotation you would shoot the one ball to get straight in on the three ball, which would give you the correct angle on the two ball, then shoot the two to get straight in on the four to get you right on the three and so on.


Beard

It's a fabulous one pocket drill

Great tip Beard. Johnnyt
 
I learned this drill from Peter Rabbit Linhardt in the 60s. Peter would shoot them in rotation, as you did, and not touch another ball, as you did, and he would bet even money that he could do it every time.
The only criticism I have of your run is that you wound up far away from your work a few times and you went to more than one rail often. When running the first line you should only come off of the short rail, and not have to go to the long rail; and when you get to the second line you should try to only use the long rail.
That means you have to get the correct angle every time, and you will be operating much closer to your work. That is balkline type position, and not many players are comfortable with it.

A hint for those trying to run off the first line using only one rail: To maintain the correct angle you must play the cue ball to land in the line of the THIRD ball rather than the next ball in the sequence. Example: If you had them lined up in rotation you would shoot the one ball to get straight in on the three ball, which would give you the correct angle on the two ball, then shoot the two to get straight in on the four to get you right on the three and so on.


Beard

It's a fabulous one pocket drill

HA - I just learned why I usually dog this drill. Thanks, Beard.
 
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