What is the dfference between Predator Pre-cat 314, Cat 314 and 314-2?

K

Ky Boy

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
This is for all you hard-core Predator fanatics out there. I have heard varying opinions of Predator shafts over the years and how they help or hurt each one's game.

But, I haven't heard what the difference between these 3 shafts are: Pre-Cat 314, Cat 314 and 314-2.....

So what are they guys.....I have an opportunity to potentially purchase a Cat 314 and wonder about the eccentricities of all 3....please enlighten me with your opinions.......thanks!!!!!!!!


Gary
 
i've had all 3 over the years. i feel i played a bit better with the pre-cats. dont ask to describe couldnt tell you why. just my personal belief.
 
I know for the 2nd generation they shortened the ferrule. At some point they also went from LePro to Everest for the standard tip- that may have been when they started putting the cat log on, not sure.
 
Ky Boy said:
This is for all you hard-core Predator fanatics out there. I have heard varying opinions of Predator shafts over the years and how they help or hurt each one's game.

But, I haven't heard what the difference between these 3 shafts are: Pre-Cat 314, Cat 314 and 314-2.....

So what are they guys.....I have an opportunity to potentially purchase a Cat 314 and wonder about the eccentricities of all 3....please enlighten me with your opinions.......thanks!!!!!!!!


Gary
Click to expand...

One thing I have noticed while do tips and repairs on this shafts is that it appears that the material they are using for the ferrules on the 314-2 is different than the material used previously. I could be wrong, but I don't think I am, if I were you I would contact KJ here on the forum the business he does repair work for is an authorized Predator repair facility and I am certain he has all the up to date information on this subject.

JIMO
 
Thanks for all the replies so far.....


I would also like to hear a few answers regarding the difference in playability of these shafts......


Gary
 
When i started back playing a couple of years ago, i bought the 314, it has a 3/4" ferrel and a 12.75mm shaft. I then bought a 314-2, which has a 1/2" ferrel and also a 12.75mm shaft. The z shaft is i believe a 1/4" ferrel and a 11.75mm shaft. I also know they came out with a fat shaft that is a little over 13mm shaft. I haven't heard of any cat shafts. I would think the shorter ferrel and thicker shafts would be a stiffer hit. I just know i tryed them for a few months and went back to a regular shaft.
 
I have a 314 and swithched to a Z2 for the smaller diameter and less mass = less squirt. Mostly for the smaller diameter though.
 
I read on here a while back that the cat logo Predators are made in China, the 314 only logo are the ones made in Jacksonville, FL. I don't know for certain, just repeating what I read on this forum a while back. Now, the 314-2 is definitely made overseas. Not sure about the first generation 314 cat logo shafts.

What I do know is that Predator changed the taper. I very much prefer the original 314's taper. This puts me in the minority. Since the beginning of the Predator, the biggest gripe and *****ing among potential Predator owners was the 314's flex. Read it on here, read it on the Usenet, heard it in pool halls at tournaments. Very common.

Two complaints:

1. 314 was too thin. Most complaints coming from people used to thicker and stronger tapers of stiff shafts.

2. 314 was too "whippy" ..too much flex. Wanted it stiffened up. To play more like the stiffer shafts many players are used to.

So Predator beefed up the taper just a little bit on the 314-2. It's not a big difference that makes it night and day, but it is noticeable and it is different. 314-2 plays stiffer. Funny thing is, a lot of players still don't like the 314-2 cause it's not stiff enough and too whippy. But I would guess from what I read and seen that a good number of players that didn't like the 314, do like the 314-2. Whereas, very few 314 lovers refuse to play with the 314-2. That's a win for Predator in sales. A few seconds on a lathe with some 600 grit turns a 314-2 into a 314. Doesn't take much. That's another factor, most players - even good experienced players, decrease their shaft diameter by the use of abrasives whether they realize or not. A 314 in the hands of an owner who uses abrasives can become Meucci thin and whippy pretty quick. Over the years I've hit with people's original 314 that was sanded too much, and I can see why some thought it was too whippy. Thing would flail around! But that's not Predator's fault or design.

Predator also came out with that FAT shaft....supposedly for the big demand particularly among Taiwanese players.


Other changes were already mentioned, such as the shorter ferrule of the 314-2. They also use a different ferrule material. The new ferrule material is more white in color than the original 314 and supposedly more scratch resistant. The 314-2's joint is arguably more stable and solid due to the phenolic insert they use. Aside from all that, Predator claims the 314-2 has some changes that makes it lower deflection.
 
Ky Boy said:
This is for all you hard-core Predator fanatics out there. I have heard varying opinions of Predator shafts over the years and how they help or hurt each one's game.

But, I haven't heard what the difference between these 3 shafts are: Pre-Cat 314, Cat 314 and 314-2.....

So what are they guys.....I have an opportunity to potentially purchase a Cat 314 and wonder about the eccentricities of all 3....please enlighten me with your opinions.......thanks!!!!!!!!


Gary
Click to expand...

taper, foam insert, and quality control. that last part could have been fixed but at this pointit's a trust issue
 
manwon said:
One thing I have noticed while do tips and repairs on this shafts is that it appears that the material they are using for the ferrules on the 314-2 is different than the material used previously. I could be wrong, but I don't think I am, if I were you I would contact KJ here on the forum the business he does repair work for is an authorized Predator repair facility and I am certain he has all the up to date information on this subject.

JIMO
Click to expand...

the first gen 314 used something called isoplast for the ferrules. the 2nd gen 314's used titan initially, then switched to something called maxlite. i can't tell the difference between titan and maxlite personally.

i think the 2nd gens are a lot better. the first gens seems to have gotten this mythical reputation, seems to happen to things that are old and not made anymore. the first gens i thought were way too whippy and the ferrule was a very soft material. the second gen fixed these issues by using a harder ferrule and a stiffer taper.
 
I've had several Predator shafts over the years. I believe my first was an early "cat" 314. I bought several other similar 314's, and 314-2's. I must say the piece of wood in my very first shaft was *excellent*. It really had a great hit, and overall nice playability. All of the shafts had Uni-Loc joints except for my most recent 2, which have 3/8-10 joints. I must say after switching to a (really nice Gilbert) cue with a 3/8-10 joint, the feel of the cueball is *radically* enhanced. However, I will also say that while still using the Uni-Loc, the 314-2 represented an overall improvement. The hit was firmer, more solid feeling. Also the "performance" with regard to squirt was clearly better, and this seems to be the principle reason that people get into Predator shafts.

I will point out one interesting thing: the construction techniques appear to have improved dramatically with the newer 314-2 shafts. While they may be made overseas, and I would guess that the quality of the *wood* used is lower, the joint construction is definitely better. The original ones basically had joint sleeves that were literally slipped onto the shaft and glued. This is super weak in my opinion. I have had the joint ring fall right off. The newer ones appear to be either threaded on or are integrated with the joint insert that goes into the shaft, thus providing more structural integrity. I had a great cue guy put a new joint ring on the one that fell off. He did it the right way, threading it onto the wood rather than just slipping it on. Made a huge difference in the quality of hit. Maybe that is why I love my first one so much. Nonetheless, I had to give it up because there was no denying the performance improvements with the 314-2.

Hope this helps,

KMRUNOUT
 
FWIW I was told by someone who I wont name thats affiliated with Predator and has used all their products from day one, after about a year he replaces his shafts because they get soft and whippy after about a years play-he plays alot. But it makes sence to me. Cues have 2 nodial points and flex in the shape of a sin wave(get your math book out or wikipedia and look at the shape of a sin wave) when u hit a ball, the harder u hit it the more flex one flex point is in is in the butt and the other is in the shaft towards the middle of the shaft, since the shaft is lamanated wood that flexation over time will weaken the the bond of the adheasive inthe shaft therefore making the shaft have less structial integretity. This dosent happen with one piece of wood shafts as there are no glue lines.this wont effect/change the butt because it flexes less and is much stronger

So point is buy new shafts and selll them when they get soft.
 
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Fatboy said:
FWIW I was told by someone who I wont name thats affiliated with Predator and has used all their products from day one, after about a year he replaces his shafts because they get soft and whippy after about a years play-he plays alot. But it makes sence to me. Cues have 2 nodial points and flex in the shape of a sin wave(get your math book out or wikipedia and look at the shape of a sin wave) when u hit a ball, the harder u hit it the more flex one flex point is in is in the butt and the other is in the shaft towards the middle of the shaft, since the shaft is lamanated wood that flexation over time will weaken the the bond of the adheasive inthe shaft therefore making the shaft have less structial integretity. This dosent happen with one piece of wood shafts as there are no glue lines.this wont effect/change the butt because it flexes less and is much stronger

So point is buy new shafts and selll them when they get soft.
Click to expand...
Or just dont believe the hype and play with Maple? ;)
 
No hype, just scientific fact

OK, let's separate the wheat from the chaff.

There is no difference btwn the 'Cat' shafts and the pre-cat shafts.
The only change made was the decal. Both where made this side of the pond. All Gen2 shafts are made in China.
Predator added the 'Cat' for greater visual exposure of their logo and product identity. The 314 in the decal is larger as well.

'McChen's' statement is accurate. Thanx Gary.
"the first gen 314 used something called isoplast for the ferrules. the 2nd gen 314's used titan initially, then switched to something called maxlite."
It's also true that the length of the ferrule, from the Gen1 to the Gen2 was shortened. Plastic weighs more than wood. Reduce the front-end mass and the result is reduced deflection.

All Gen1 shafts are constructed the same. Some of the very first Predator shafts were constructed using 6 pie-splice construction and some were constructed using 12 pie-splice construction though each had a very short production run and should be considered just part of the progression of the construction design. The pre-cat, the cat and the current Gen2 shafts all share 10 pie-splice construction.

This old chestnut is a favorite of mine and is perpetuated by nothing more than guessing or hearsay (something I heard). "foam insert".
There is no foam core. There is no foam insert. Is a 'sticky' in order?
All Predator shafts are hollow for 5" from the tip down and filled with nothing but air.

As has been mentioned, the Gen2 shafts have incorporated the use of a phenolic mtrl. at the joint of the shaft. I have mixed feelings on this matter. I'm not against the use of phenolic, I use it in my own cues. I think it's a wonderful idea and allows for a better hit when used properly.
I do believe that the shaft should be 'banded', at the joint, with a phenolic ring rather than relying solely on the phenolic insert to keep the shaft intact. This is JMO.

I'd like to address the 1 stated issue of the clients deco ring "falling right off". This was the 'band' that I was speaking of, the deco-ring. IMO, it makes the joint-end of the shaft considerably stronger. It prevents the pie splices from separating when side-loading the joint.

Let me also state that I do all of the custom work for the world's largest Predator dealership and have built, to mate & match, well over 1,000 Predator shafts. I have never seen the shaft deco-ring on a Predator shaft fall off. That's not to say that it didn't happen to the poster who made the statement.
I just gotta figure that 1 out of 1 million isn't too bad of a track record.

I would welcome any questions that you may have on Predator shafts as my greater concern is that of accurate information. No more WMD theories, OK?
 
Thanks so much for all the replies guys!!!!!

You have answered my questions flawlessly........


Gary
 
i had used predators since they became available. through karen corr and directly. i had multiple of pre cat 314 only, 314 with cat and 314-2. at one point i had 4 shafts sent back. 2 with ferrule problems. one that literally split down the middle (which was hollow until about 5 inches above the joint insert which had a light blue almost white foam inside and another that had a cracked ferrule that broke off during a break. predator replaced each and every shaft at no charge other then shipping with the new 314-2 models as per the person i spoke to "previous models were structurally faulty and would be replaced with newer models only.
 
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