What order to shoot the stripes with ball in hand?

[Cornerman]

It was not to imply you could not run it out. It's not a difficult layout and I'm confident I could get out regularly starting with any of the balls.

That said , if my opponent has bih and starts with the open ball in the middle of the table I consider it a strong indicator in my favor.

Funny… if my opponent started with the 13-ball, I know I’m up against someone strong in 8-ball pattern runouts. You might want to consider why some of the posters like myself, Bob Jewett, Easy E, etc. think 13-ball is a wise choice. Lots of people have added great input as to why.

 

[Island Drive]

Anytime your able to roll to shape with a high center cue ball, your shooting a shot that has the least going on. It's thee most simple shot of all.

 

[Jimmorrison]

More like a peninsula. I actually found this to be the most consistent path to success.

 

[Jimmorrison]

Damn. Me n Gatz are on an island on this one. 13 last is my borderline second favorite option to 13 first.
Getting on the 10 from the 14 is easy in a number of ways. you have basically guaranteed shape on the 13 off the 10 and the 8 is a simple natural roll off the 13. I like it.

 

[Rack’em]

13 in far side with follow. 15-11-14-10-

 

[Cuedup]

Funny… if my opponent started with the 13-ball, I know I’m up against someone strong in 8-ball pattern runouts. You might want to consider why some of the posters like myself, Bob Jewett, Easy E, etc. think 13-ball is a wise choice. Lots of people have added great input as to why.

Don't feel attacked.

I assume we all play with those lower skilled players that will ignore problem areas in favor of taking the ball in the middle.

I forgot the typical AZ poster is a local shortstop. My apologies.

 

[straightline]

Here's my earlier post simplified.

14 in the r/side center high cue ball to the 15/15 center high cue ball to the 11/11 center high roller cue ball to the 13/13 center high roller cue ball to the 10, if close to 13 then draw towards 10.... next 10 ball stop shot 8 ball straight in.... couldn't be any simpler.

Most every shot is cued with 12 o'clock high center follow. Thee most simple shot to perform great speed control and direction control.

I like this performance flow bias. It has practical relevance unlike the <number of pockets/least required competence> tack.
Fact is, oddsmakers still only get the ONE try at their algorithm.

 

[BasementDweller]

I think mine is the best

13
15
11
14
10
Yes the first shot with BiH takes a little touch, but it's with a rolling cue ball. Roll it into position and you are on your way. The 13 is probably the toughest ball to get on. Get rid of it if you can and you can!

 

[VarmintKong]

I enjoy these and hope a good time was had by all. Thanks to the O.P. for throwin’ it out there.

Put me firmly in the 15 ball first camp. Reason being, the 13 ball is great to transition to the half with the 14 and it’s almost impossible to not get on the 8 ball from the 14:

15-11-10-13-14-8

 

[VarmintKong]

Although, I can see why the 13 is appealing. You look at the table and say to yourself that 15 is blocking the 10. I need to take care of that.

Then you think what could I shoot to sit pretty on that 15 and the 13 is staring ya’ right in the face. It’s just a little roll.

However, going from 10 to 14 (or 14 to 10) seems like a lot more cloth to cover than 13 to 14. That’s my story and I’m stickin’ to it (unless convinced otherwise).

 

[skip100]

13-15-11-14-10-8 was my initial idea.

 

[BasementDweller]

Although, I can see why the 13 is appealing. You look at the table and say to yourself that 15 is blocking the 10. I need to take care of that.

Then you think what could I shoot to sit pretty on that 15 and the 13 is staring ya’ right in the face. It’s just a little roll.

However, going from 10 to 14 (or 14 to 10) seems like a lot more cloth to cover than 13 to 14. That’s my story and I’m stickin’ to it (unless convinced otherwise).

The 15 is really only blocking the 10 if you wait until the end. I think with an open table like this, the highest percentage runout MAY include MORE cue ball movement instead of LESS which is the accepted standard. This is actually a perfect rack to illustrate the difference between a player that is competent in both 9 ball and 8 ball, versus an 8 ball specialist. I think the 8 ball specialists sometimes look for the pattern that requires the least cue ball movement and to their detriment at times! Cue ball movement isn't a bad thing when you have huge positional zones you can track into and that's really what this pattern has to offer.

 

[Bigkat]

I don't like that 13!!
*Therefore, I'm running the 10 ball up the rail first with one tip above Center ball.
*Then I'm cutting the 13 in the side.
(A decent player should be able to manufacture it from there LOL)

 

[straightline]

I don't like that 13!!
*Therefore, I'm running the 10 ball up the rail first with one tip above Center ball.
*Then I'm cutting the 13 in the side.
(A decent player should be able to manufacture it from there LOL)

You could also shoot the 13 in the corner and roll into a suitable angle on the 11, subsequently rolling into a spot in-between the 10 and 15. Take your pick from there. Jocks put too much priority on not losing and not enough on getting skillederer.

 

[The_JV]

Damn. Me n Gatz are on an island on this one. 13 last is my borderline second favorite option to 13 first.
Getting on the 10 from the 14 is easy in a number of ways. you have basically guaranteed shape on the 13 off the 10 and the 8 is a simple natural roll off the 13. I like it.

The worst two balls on the table are the 15 and 13.

When I determine patterns. I don't look at what should happen if I everything goes right. I place more weight on what can happen if things go wrong.

The most position critical ball on the table is the 15. It has one pocket, blocks another ball, and the transition from it to the 11 makes or breaks the pattern. Keeping all that in mind. Why on earth the correct play would be to pot the 13 first with the goal to play shape on the 15 is beyond me. The 13 gets me out of the corner relative to the 11 with ease. I want that 13 after the 11. If I under hit the 13 first, or even get a kick, I could be left very thin on the 15 if not possibly snookered. The 15 is frozen to the rail so any angle your generating off the 13 now requires you to slow roll the 15 to insure a decent shot on the 11. You don't want to spin down the bottom rail as it's way too easy to get flat on the 11 and get into position wherein you need to work the CB out of there.

Although it's easy enough to use the 10 last, it does allow for some cueing errors to bite you in the ass. It gets worse when you're now attempting to play shape to the 13 from the 10. The transition from 10 to 13 boils down to how close you get to the 10 after the 14 and the cut angle you're left with. So how good are you at moving the CB with accuracy over the distance of 9-10ft and 1-2 rails..? It would be incredibly easy to under hit the 10 and end up blocked by the 3. It's just as easy to over compensate for the potential under hit and leave yourself a cut angle on the 13 that now is going to run you down table further than you would like for the 8. That may go as bad as being forced to play 3 rails to get back to above the 8.

None of the pitfalls are all that terrible, (other than the snooker) and a decent player could work themselves out of any of them. However why even take the risk...? Why play a pattern that relies on shot making ability and better than avg CB control. When you could literally just roll the CB around and get out without any risk of snookers.

 

[WobblyStroke]

The worst two balls on the table are the 15 and 13.

When I determine patterns. I don't look at what should happen if I everything goes right. I place more weight on what can happen if things go wrong.

The most position critical ball on the table is the 15. It has one pocket, blocks another ball, and the transition from it to the 11 makes or breaks the pattern. Keeping all that in mind. Why on earth the correct play would be to pot the 13 first with the goal to play shape on the 15 is beyond me. The 13 gets me out of the corner relative to the 11 with ease. I want that 13 after the 11. If I under hit the 13 first, or even get a kick, I could be left very thin on the 15 if not possibly snookered. The 15 is frozen to the rail so any angle your generating off the 13 now requires you to slow roll the 15 to insure a decent shot on the 11. You don't want to spin down the bottom rail as it's way too easy to get flat on the 11 and get into position wherein you need to work the CB out of there.

Although it's easy enough to use the 10 last, it does allow for some cueing errors to bite you in the ass. It gets worse when you're now attempting to play shape to the 13 from the 10. The transition from 10 to 13 boils down to how close you get to the 10 after the 14 and the cut angle you're left with. So how good are you at moving the CB with accuracy over the distance of 9-10ft and 1-2 rails..? It would be incredibly easy to under hit the 10 and end up blocked by the 3. It's just as easy to over compensate for the potential under hit and leave yourself a cut angle on the 13 that now is going to run you down table further than you would like for the 8. That may go as bad as being forced to play 3 rails to get back to above the 8.

None of the pitfalls are all that terrible, (other than the snooker) and a decent player could work themselves out of any of them. However why even take the risk...? Why play a pattern that relies on shot making ability and better than avg CB control. When you could literally just roll the CB around and get out without any risk of snookers.

I like the breakdown. You've convinced me to drop the 13 last pattern from my second favorite to T-3rd lol.

 

[Pool Hand Luke]

10 ball had to go first. Shot it up to the corner pocket but it rattled and hung. Opponent stepped up and cut the 5 in the side going 3 rails for a stop on the 3 and then pushed the 8 straight in the corner. Game over.

 

[easy-e]

Don't feel attacked.

I assume we all play with those lower skilled players that will ignore problem areas in favor of taking the ball in the middle.

I forgot the typical AZ poster is a local shortstop. My apologies.

I believe the ball(s) in the middle could be the biggest problem. I guess its all about perspective. Would you mind posting a video of you running the pattern your way? I think we all should do that so we can get a better idea of why a player wants to play it that way.

 

[ChrisinNC]

I forgot the typical AZ poster is a local shortstop. My apologies.

I consider it a compliment to many of us when you say the typical poster here is a local shortstop. I recall 20+ years ago when Tony Watson and Amat Kang passed through here and I took turns matching up with them both all day/night, with a small spot.

I may have ended up losing a little $ but they sure had to work hard for it. I’ll never forget Amar commenting to Tony that I played at shortstop level and couldn’t be taken lightly. Ever since I gained a new respect for what pro players consider a shortstop level player.

 

[Texas Carom Club]

15,11 ,13 ,14 ,10