What qualities or defects should I look for when buying a used table?

infest

Banger
Silver Member
I'm going next week to look at a table that's for sale. It's a refinished 1950 Brunswick Anniversary. So what should I look for as far as defects or qualities? I'm a first time buyer so I honestly don't know what to look for.
 
How can I tell if it is rotted? This table is completely assembled.

Then you play on it. Plain and simple.

Really, there are many things that could be wrong with it. Might not be anything wrong with it...

I suggest having whoever will be doing the move/ setup go with you. He will probably appreciate an early look at the job.
 
I don't know how "open" the bottom of an Anniversary is, but you can often see the slate from below to look for cracks. Use a strong flashlight; there's not much light down there. If the cloth is worn you might be able to see cracks from the top as more worn than the surrounding area (of course the typical break-shot paths and rail gutters will show extra wear, but that's normal).

Our community center table has a small crater where someone must have slammed a ball on the slate and caused an indent. You can "see" it by looking for the nickle-sized ring of cloth wear.

Testing the rails is simple but a bit time-consuming. Hit a few bank shots off of each rail just to see if any rail is really dead. Then press a finger(s) against the rail every 2" or so, feeling for hard spots or soft spots. After a foot or two of pressing you'll get the feel for "normal."
 
I think on an older table like this there will be a certain amount of bumps and bruises which of course come with territory. As far a bad rubber, who cares? that is so easy to remedy it wouldn't affect my decision in the least. Depending on the age and condition of the refinish job, new rubber is a no brainer anyway. less than 200$ in parts (plus labor). I would be more concerned with the condition of the Corner/Side pocket castings, the aluminum that wraps the legs, and the condition of the slate ( which will be harder to see if the table is still together. These old Anniversary's are the bee's knees and play beautifully if set up properly. just my .00002 worth :D
 
I'm going next week to look at a table that's for sale. It's a refinished 1950 Brunswick Anniversary. So what should I look for as far as defects or qualities? I'm a first time buyer so I honestly don't know what to look for.

I would not make this purchase without speaking with RealKingCobra. He is always willing to help out. He's a walking encyclopedia of pool table information too.

Glen - 702-927-5689 Send a text is best.

Ray
 
This one doesn't have the aluminum on the legs. May be a deal breaker for me. But I won't know until I see it. Not sure what it has on the pockets. I am supposed to bet getting pictures sent to me today.
 
This one doesn't have the aluminum on the legs. May be a deal breaker for me. But I won't know until I see it. Not sure what it has on the pockets. I am supposed to bet getting pictures sent to me today.

Post them up when you get them.
 
If only there was a guy who:

1) traveled the Country working on and fixing tables and knew all about them

2) was a member of this forum and easy to contact here

3) was only too glad to share his wealth of knowledge.

If such a guy did exist, I'm sure we as a community of pool players would support and appreciate him.

Kevin
 
If only there was a guy who:

1) traveled the Country working on and fixing tables and knew all about them

2) was a member of this forum and easy to contact here

3) was only too glad to share his wealth of knowledge.

If such a guy did exist, I'm sure we as a community of pool players would support and appreciate him.

Kevin

And did what he said he would do in the time he said he would it...too bad we don't have any of those guys.

(Actually any good mechanic can do just as good unless you find a table in dire need of repairs.)

Ken
 
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This one doesn't have the aluminum on the legs. May be a deal breaker for me. But I won't know until I see it. Not sure what it has on the pockets. I am supposed to bet getting pictures sent to me today.

You can add the aluminum bands later.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk.
 
Shoot four "Round the World" shots.

From each corner shoot "Round the World shots" (aim at the sixth diamond on the far long rail) with your standard strong break speed shot. IF the ball rolls the same distance on all four shots - the cushions are consistent. Any ball roll that comes up very short tells you one (or more) of the six cushions are weak.
 
She got me the pics. Sorry about the size.

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that's a bad mama jamma right there. I like the ones with the white corners and banding on the legs. Not sure what they're asking but if it was me I'd sure be very interested.
 
This! +1 Old pool tables can be a great find (occasionally for a great deal), or they can be a money pit. Don't worry about the aluminum bands...many Anniverary tables did not have them.

Scott Lee
http://poolknowledge.com

Really, there are many things that could be wrong with it. Might not be anything wrong with it...

I suggest having whoever will be doing the move/ setup go with you. He will probably appreciate an early look at the job.
 
From each corner shoot "Round the World shots" (aim at the sixth diamond on the far long rail) with your standard strong break speed shot. IF the ball rolls the same distance on all four shots - the cushions are consistent. Any ball roll that comes up very short tells you one (or more) of the six cushions are weak.

Take a ball in your hand and hold it about 8 inches to a foot from the rubber. Slap it against the rail medium hard and catch it back in your hand. Do it again about two inches down the rail. Work your way around the entire table doing this, kind of dribbling the ball against the rubber and listen to the sounds you hear. You can get a rhythm just like dribbling a basketball so it won't take long to get all the way around.

Rubber that is hard in spots or loose under the rail will make a distinctly different sound when the ball hits it doing this exercise. Also look for the ball jumping up off the slate which indicates problems with the rubber. On a table with anchor nuts sandwiched in the rails it will have three slots under the rubber that may sound funny when you hit the spot on the rubber in front of the rail bolt and this is ok. Each rail will have one of these in the exact center and one near each pocket.
 
Well they want $2500 for the table. All of the sticks (some custom), the light, 2 wall racks (one is custom made. he was a wood worker by trade), the original balls, and the rack. Assuming it's a 9 foot table, which I haven't found out yet. I couldn't have gotten luckier on the trade.

The unfortunate part is I believe my wife is backing out unless I can change her mind. If I can't I'll let you guys know where it's at so that someone else has a shot at it.
 
It looks smaller than a nine footer. A nine foot table will measure fifty inches by one hundred inches inside the cushions. That light was made for an eight footer or a bar box.
 
Also, I'd find out more about the custom cues. Hell, you might be able to flip them and get your money back. ;)
 
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