What specific performance qualities are necessary for a cue to "play great", "hit great", "hit a ton", etc.?
Or do those terms just mean "I like it"?
pj
chgo
Or do those terms just mean "I like it"?
pj
chgo
What's Good About A "Good Hit"?
- Thread starter Patrick Johnson
- Start date
Pretty much. Unless you're selling it. Then it definitely "hits a ton"
Either it is definitely for sale...or definitely not.
My Joss is definitely not for sale. It plays great, hits a ton. :wink:
I always like: "Moves the cue ball well, with little effort". Hell, a baseball bat can move the cue ball well and with little effort. LOL!
.
A good hit is a one piece hit, and it can be either hard, i.e., crisp, or it can be a bit more compliant. Actually, the hit has more to do with the tip than other parts, though loose parts in the ferrule, joint, A joint, or buttsleeve can cause a problem.
The good hit is just that. It's a nice one piece hit, where parts are not clanging around. You can tell a bad hit, you can call it a buzz, a ring, a clanging sound, whatever you want to call it. The good hitting cue doesn't have that, whether it's a crisp hit, or a more compliant, softer hit.
Everybody understood this, correct?
All the best,
WW
The good hit is just that. It's a nice one piece hit, where parts are not clanging around. You can tell a bad hit, you can call it a buzz, a ring, a clanging sound, whatever you want to call it. The good hitting cue doesn't have that, whether it's a crisp hit, or a more compliant, softer hit.
Everybody understood this, correct?
All the best,
WW
Good hit
Really hard to describe as hit is subjective to hitter. But to me a good hitting cue is instant feedback. As soon as the tip makes contact with the cue ball I know if i have made a good shot. Some cues feel dead, for example I hate the hit of a McDermott, i have nothing personal against them I just don't like the dead feel. Same with some steel jointed cues they seem dead. I like lively woods almost any rosewood with a wood to wood joint. I think i like the tone or sound a cue makes or maybe it's the vibrations at contact. Nothing scientific just personal preferences is what " hit " is all about.
Really hard to describe as hit is subjective to hitter. But to me a good hitting cue is instant feedback. As soon as the tip makes contact with the cue ball I know if i have made a good shot. Some cues feel dead, for example I hate the hit of a McDermott, i have nothing personal against them I just don't like the dead feel. Same with some steel jointed cues they seem dead. I like lively woods almost any rosewood with a wood to wood joint. I think i like the tone or sound a cue makes or maybe it's the vibrations at contact. Nothing scientific just personal preferences is what " hit " is all about.
Forgot...Monster player.
Have yet to hear "Hit's like a Mother".
The cue should be able to last a lifetime.
.................
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A lot of what the hit is, is vibration and flex. A guy like Efren, likes a lot of action in his cue ( flex ) as well as weight.
Others like cues that are very stiff. If you take out the rubber bumper in the base of a cue it won't feel the same when you hit balls.
Me personally, I don't like ivory ferrules and steel joints. Now I had a SW shaft where the ferrule became loose and I took it out to Ernie G., to fix it and he only puts on ivory ferrules and that cue hit great with an ivory ferrule.
SW Pauferro and the original shaft had a Westinghouse micarta ferrule. True story. I bought a 30th anniversary Ginacue from Ernie and I started to experiment with it and had Tim Padgett put a Westinghouse micarta ferrule on that cue and it hit great.
I showed it the Ernie and he went ballistic. With a wood to wood joint I like ivory ferrules but not with steel.
Currently using a Tiger 11.75 mm shaft with the sniper tip on my SW cue and it " hits a ton".
Others like cues that are very stiff. If you take out the rubber bumper in the base of a cue it won't feel the same when you hit balls.
Me personally, I don't like ivory ferrules and steel joints. Now I had a SW shaft where the ferrule became loose and I took it out to Ernie G., to fix it and he only puts on ivory ferrules and that cue hit great with an ivory ferrule.
SW Pauferro and the original shaft had a Westinghouse micarta ferrule. True story. I bought a 30th anniversary Ginacue from Ernie and I started to experiment with it and had Tim Padgett put a Westinghouse micarta ferrule on that cue and it hit great.
I showed it the Ernie and he went ballistic. With a wood to wood joint I like ivory ferrules but not with steel.
Currently using a Tiger 11.75 mm shaft with the sniper tip on my SW cue and it " hits a ton".
Performance and hit aren't related, so none.
All I can tell ya is that my 2007 Keith Josey is not for sale. So yes, I consider it to be a good hitting cue despite it having "only" the original maple shafts.
I’ve always felt that it was a combo of the feel of the cue in your hands, the sound it makes upon contact with the CB, and the vibration passing through the cue into your fingers. Never understood how guys play with earbuds in — it totally deadens the feedback you’re getting when shooting, IMO.
Lou Figueroa
The only way I can describe cues that "hit a ton", "monster player" etc., would be
the cue helps you make the ball better than an average playing cue.
Some cues seem to have an extra dimension that drives the cue ball better and
helps take the ball to the hole.
The times I've seen it, others notice it as well.
I've played with and sold hundreds of cues in the last 16 years and when I've sold
the cues I'm talking about, I get messages for months from the buyers, thanking me, and talking about the cue.
Most cues play good, or can be tuned up to play good, but some are outstanding.
There are a lot of variables and certain cuemakers just have the touch.
Sometimes it's the shaft, and Schon is a good example of that.
I have 2 Schon's and 16 shafts by Schon or made for Schon by others.
Talk about differences in hit, and outstanding vs. good or acceptable.
I've also noticed that certain cues in pristine condition, seemingly new, keep getting
flipped, while well used cues with darkened shafts are difficult to sell.
It's possible that the used cue was well used because it plays really good, while that
pristine new looking cue has no feel and hits like crap.
There are some hilarious cues stories about well travelled cues I'm aware of,
and not so funny stories about cues that are horribly overrated.
the cue helps you make the ball better than an average playing cue.
Some cues seem to have an extra dimension that drives the cue ball better and
helps take the ball to the hole.
The times I've seen it, others notice it as well.
I've played with and sold hundreds of cues in the last 16 years and when I've sold
the cues I'm talking about, I get messages for months from the buyers, thanking me, and talking about the cue.
Most cues play good, or can be tuned up to play good, but some are outstanding.
There are a lot of variables and certain cuemakers just have the touch.
Sometimes it's the shaft, and Schon is a good example of that.
I have 2 Schon's and 16 shafts by Schon or made for Schon by others.
Talk about differences in hit, and outstanding vs. good or acceptable.
I've also noticed that certain cues in pristine condition, seemingly new, keep getting
flipped, while well used cues with darkened shafts are difficult to sell.
It's possible that the used cue was well used because it plays really good, while that
pristine new looking cue has no feel and hits like crap.
There are some hilarious cues stories about well travelled cues I'm aware of,
and not so funny stories about cues that are horribly overrated.
Rick Howard
For
For me it starts with the sound when the cue hits the cue ball. Some cues I have owned stand out in my memory.
I remember playing with a brand new Lambros cue and had several people remark how solid the hit sounded on that cue. It was when Mike first came out with the Ultra joint as an option.
I am sure it is different for everyone that is why some players prefer one joint over another or a longer cue vs a shorter cue. I also think what tip is on a cue makes a big difference.
For me it starts with the sound when the cue hits the cue ball. Some cues I have owned stand out in my memory.
I remember playing with a brand new Lambros cue and had several people remark how solid the hit sounded on that cue. It was when Mike first came out with the Ultra joint as an option.
I am sure it is different for everyone that is why some players prefer one joint over another or a longer cue vs a shorter cue. I also think what tip is on a cue makes a big difference.
You have lots of agreement in this thread - Lou's response is a good example of those saying it's the "feel" (even including the sound):
But not everybody thinks it's limited to "feel" or "feedback", for example:
I'm interested to hear about both "feedback" and "performance" benefits, with as much specificity as possible. (I recognize that the player's performance is also affected by the cue's feedback, but I'd like to keep "performance" focused on the cue's performance.)
Thanks for all responses,
pj
chgo
The tip, since it's the only part of the cue that actually does any hitting.
It hits so good, it'll be mine forever.
There are plenty of good looking cues with high quality workmanship. But when I attend an SBE or DCC, usually I walk away not wanting to buy any of them. They can be great looking but uninspiring in hand. Once in a while, I get to play with a cue that stands out from the others and makes me want to buy at almost any cost. Those unforgettable cues usually were built by the same small group of cuemakers. By the time I discover their cues, their waiting lists are so long that effectively I cannot buy one directly from them. There must be something those guys are doing to keep them at the top of my list for interest in owning.