Can you describe some of them?...there are construction techniques that make the transference of power and finesse a more sure bet.
pj
chgo
Can you describe some of them?...there are construction techniques that make the transference of power and finesse a more sure bet.
I quess full splicing is one of them...Can you describe some of them?
pj
chgo
Was talking with Mike Johnson (Jensen Cues) some years ago and told him I was always impressed with how his cues hit, specifically his ss 5/16 14 jointed cues which is mostly what he made.
He thanked me and went on to say that he never cut corners while closely following Gus Szamboti's manufacturing methods including installing a buzz ring in his cues.
On a side note, very happy to hear that Mike is back cuemaking after his terrible m/c crash.
best,
brian kc
Pardon my ignorance, but what's a buzz ring? Is it visible?... Gus Szamboti's manufacturing methods including installing a buzz ring in his cues.
Can you describe some of them?
pj
chgo
Thanks a lot for all the detail - much appreciated.As was said below this question of yours. Full splicing takes away the joinery metal or the glueing in of the doweling in the A joint and buttsleeve. I believe (I am not a cuebuiler and I am not disparaging any cuemakers personal technique) that the full splice method of butt building, by someone who miters and glues well, gives the best (not only) chance of transmitting the power and finesse of a pool cue ball strike. I know that different cue builders use the joinery to make the weight and balance points different according to what their theory of a solid, good-hitting cue is. I myself am NOT a fan of building an all maple cue, inlaying the points and other things that make them works of art and then adding weight bolts in the buttcap and sleeve to achieve a customers desired weight. Production cues use that formula and do rather well selling them here in the USA. That is a cookie cutter- one size fits all approach- that really does not take into account the real issues of building a precision instrument for delivering a "hit" in the "pool stroke contacts cue ball realm" of physics.
Having said all this BS, I wish I could play like I did in the 1970's, not worrying about all these abstract issues, when I carried a good house cue on my adventures. Really!!!
ps....I did not take into account the breakdown joint construction and all that is at work there for good connectivity. In my opinion, the old billiard cue "big wood screw" in the shaft connected to a big receiver tap into the full splice butt is the best for overall feel and power with less effort (I also think the shaft end of this cue should be larger and heavier (than most production sneakys) and the butt should be compound tapered to achieve comfort and the good balance point I like (about 19 inches from the end of the buttsleeve). There are not very many like that being produced here in the USA. I have one that is a j/b production cue that I installed a White Diamond break tip on and I sometimes get frustrated with my search for the perfect hitting cue(that will solve almost every bad stroke and missed shot), and use my j/b to play with. I really have to pay close attention to my cue ball contact and chalking with the WD tip but it usually elevates my play, especially on bar tables. Go figure, right?
A metal stud is not a must to join the forearm to the handle .As was said below this question of yours. Full splicing takes away the joinery metal or the glueing in of the doweling in the A joint and buttsleeve. I believe (I am not a cuebuiler and I am not disparaging any cuemakers personal technique) that the full splice method of butt building, by someone who miters and glues well, gives the best (not only) chance of transmitting the power and finesse of a pool cue ball strike. I know that different cue builders use the joinery to make the weight and balance points different according to what their theory of a solid, good-hitting cue is. I myself am NOT a fan of building an all maple cue, inlaying the points and other things that make them works of art and then adding weight bolts in the buttcap and sleeve to achieve a customers desired weight. Production cues use that formula and do rather well selling them here in the USA. That is a cookie cutter- one size fits all approach- that really does not take into account the real issues of building a precision instrument for delivering a "hit" in the "pool stroke contacts cue ball realm" of physics.
A metal stud is not a must to join the forearm to the handle .
Full-splice was initially done to add more weight to the cue.
They can be bottom heavy too, hence heavy metal joint collars became popular . They are also not as stable as cored short-splice cues .
I don't think there is a professional player today who seeks to play with full-splice cues only.
Wood screw to the shaft has been outdated by G-10 and aluminum screws imo.
They offer no advantage.
Pardon my ignorance, but what's a buzz ring? Is it visible?
pj
chgo
Maybe as you're eluding to Joey, there's a lot of misconceptions regarding construction to what's "best" for hit. Fact is there's no definitive answer. What does make a difference imo, regardless of what construction method is used and assuming the maker has good knowledge, is materials used, machining proficiency, and attention to detail throughout the entire build process.
A metal stud is not a must to join the forearm to the handle .
Full-splice was initially done to add more weight to the cue.
They can be bottom heavy too, hence heavy metal joint collars became popular . They are also not as stable as cored short-splice cues .
I don't think there is a professional player today who seeks to play with full-splice cues only.
Wood screw to the shaft has been outdated by G-10 and aluminum screws imo.
They offer no advantage.