What's Good About A "Good Hit"?
- Thread starter Patrick Johnson
- Start date
I quess full splicing is one of them...
Was talking with Mike Johnson (Jensen Cues) some years ago and told him I was always impressed with how his cues hit, specifically his ss 5/16 14 jointed cues which is mostly what he made.
He thanked me and went on to say that he never cut corners while closely following Gus Szamboti's manufacturing methods including installing a buzz ring in his cues.
On a side note, very happy to hear that Mike is back cuemaking after his terrible m/c crash.
best,
brian kc
He thanked me and went on to say that he never cut corners while closely following Gus Szamboti's manufacturing methods including installing a buzz ring in his cues.
On a side note, very happy to hear that Mike is back cuemaking after his terrible m/c crash.
best,
brian kc
I heard he dissected a Gus Szamboti cue, and you are right on.
I've had a dozen Jensen cues over the years, including the one in the Billiards Encyclopedia with the swirl veneer im the buttsleeve.
Players couldn't get over the sound of that cue.
Definitely had the good ping people like so much.
kenny hall
Registered
As was said below this question of yours. Full splicing takes away the joinery metal or the glueing in of the doweling in the A joint and buttsleeve. I believe (I am not a cuebuiler and I am not disparaging any cuemakers personal technique) that the full splice method of butt building, by someone who miters and glues well, gives the best (not only) chance of transmitting the power and finesse of a pool cue ball strike. I know that different cue builders use the joinery to make the weight and balance points different according to what their theory of a solid, good-hitting cue is. I myself am NOT a fan of building an all maple cue, inlaying the points and other things that make them works of art and then adding weight bolts in the buttcap and sleeve to achieve a customers desired weight. Production cues use that formula and do rather well selling them here in the USA. That is a cookie cutter- one size fits all approach- that really does not take into account the real issues of building a precision instrument for delivering a "hit" in the "pool stroke contacts cue ball realm" of physics.
Having said all this BS, I wish I could play like I did in the 1970's, not worrying about all these abstract issues, when I carried a good house cue on my adventures. Really!!!
ps....I did not take into account the breakdown joint construction and all that is at work there for good connectivity. In my opinion, the old billiard cue "big wood screw" in the shaft connected to a big receiver tap into the full splice butt is the best for overall feel and power with less effort (I also think the shaft end of this cue should be larger and heavier (than most production sneakys) and the butt should be compound tapered to achieve comfort and the good balance point I like (about 19 inches from the end of the buttsleeve). There are not very many like that being produced here in the USA. I have one that is a j/b production cue that I installed a White Diamond break tip on and I sometimes get frustrated with my search for the perfect hitting cue(that will solve almost every bad stroke and missed shot), and use my j/b to play with. I really have to pay close attention to my cue ball contact and chalking with the WD tip but it usually elevates my play, especially on bar tables. Go figure, right?
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A metal stud is not a must to join the forearm to the handle .
Full-splice was initially done to add more weight to the cue.
They can be bottom heavy too, hence heavy metal joint collars became popular . They are also not as stable as cored short-splice cues .
I don't think there is a professional player today who seeks to play with full-splice cues only.
Wood screw to the shaft has been outdated by G-10 and aluminum screws imo.
They offer no advantage.
Maybe as you're eluding to Joey, there's a lot of misconceptions regarding construction to what's "best" for hit. Fact is there's no definitive answer. What does make a difference imo, regardless of what construction method is used and assuming the maker has good knowledge, is materials used, machining proficiency, and attention to detail throughout the entire build process.
Skins posted words of wisdom when he wrote...."attention to detail throughout the entire build process."
That requires a keen eye & dedication to the cue design under construction & meticulous craftmanship.
Matt B.
That requires a keen eye & dedication to the cue design under construction & meticulous craftmanship.
Matt B.
Taking into consideration that the cue doesn't have any loose parts and it is a solid two piece, all things being considered, a good hitting cue is a cue that delivers what you need. The sound and firm/softness are merely preferences.
Hi pj:
from DZ Cues with some helpful pics:
http://www.dzcues.com/A-Joint.html
and here's an old az thread with some good info:
https://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=26149
kenny hall
Registered
Amen! You are right on about the dedication to extreme detail and not the almighty $ !!
kenny hall
Registered
I agree with what you say. Older full splice cues are too butt heavy for most players preference these days, even mine. I too like G 10(or aluminum) joint pins. What I said in my posts about compound tapering the butt and using medium hard and lighter woods for the butt splice should take care of the butt heaviness. The harder, heaver woods, like ebony and such, throw the balance point off, even with a stainless still joint in the FS. Also a liitle heavier than usual shaft is good IMO.
Regards and best wishes, Ken
ps...For a 3 piece butt I too like a short splice forearm with good joinery (G 10) to the handle and buttsleeve. I had one made for me a couple of years ago that has a pink ivory into cocobolo nose with small purpleheart points into the PI main points with a granadillo handle and a cocobolo buttsleeve. A 3/8-10 G10 joint pin and Keilwood shafts. The resonance of the cue is astounding and it really has a nice firm hit It is a great player. It came out bearing a 19" balance point, perfect for me. I got the idea from Cogs. It worked out real good.
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