Whats important in a pool table?

I recently went into a couple different billiard stores looking at pool tables. I want something that plays good and my wife wants something that looks good. She's ruled out gold crowns and diamonds. So I'm stuck looking at 'other' tables. I quickly learned that I know next to nothing about pool tables. I know that I want Simonis 860, and 4.5 inch pockets with slate at least an inch thick but thats about all I guess. The sales people start going off about Brazilian slate and that it is one step below Italian slate but won't make a difference in how the balls roll or its constructed of all African hardwood or some crap. I just nod my head like a chick talking to a auto mechanic. I've learned to look under the tables and sure table A has more bracing than table B. But are there some guidelines to go by?

One salesperson told me Olhausen is all but Bankrupt, and Brunswick (I think) sold a part of there company to some shuffleboard company. Should this be a concern? I don't want to have issues in the future obtaining parts.

What else do I need to know before I drop 5 grand on a table?

All I can tell you about furniture pool tables...is that I stay away from them as much as I can. I don't really care for the construction of the frames, the design of the pockets, or for the rail design for that matter either. They all use the #6 pocket irons for the most part, most all have either MDF or particle board for the slate liner that the cloth is stapled to, which won't last with repeated recovering of the table. I don't care to much for antiques either, they're really out dated and cost a bundle if you want to fix one up to play more modern like, and in a lot of cases even that won't help. None of the furniture tables carry much of a resale value what-so-ever, so I consider them to be pretty much a waste of money. The day someone designs and builds a furniture table to play like a Diamond or Gold Crown...is the day I'd change my mind about a furniture tables.

Glen
 
All I can tell you about furniture pool tables...is that I stay away from them as much as I can. I don't really care for the construction of the frames, the design of the pockets, or for the rail design for that matter either. They all use the #6 pocket irons for the most part, most all have either MDF or particle board for the slate liner that the cloth is stapled to, which won't last with repeated recovering of the table. I don't care to much for antiques either, they're really out dated and cost a bundle if you want to fix one up to play more modern like, and in a lot of cases even that won't help. None of the furniture tables carry much of a resale value what-so-ever, so I consider them to be pretty much a waste of money. The day someone designs and builds a furniture table to play like a Diamond or Gold Crown...is the day I'd change my mind about a furniture tables.

Glen

Good enough for me! Glen might know a couple of things about pool tables.:)
 
All I can tell you about furniture pool tables...is that I stay away from them as much as I can. I don't really care for the construction of the frames, the design of the pockets, or for the rail design for that matter either. They all use the #6 pocket irons for the most part, most all have either MDF or particle board for the slate liner that the cloth is stapled to, which won't last with repeated recovering of the table. I don't care to much for antiques either, they're really out dated and cost a bundle if you want to fix one up to play more modern like, and in a lot of cases even that won't help. None of the furniture tables carry much of a resale value what-so-ever, so I consider them to be pretty much a waste of money. The day someone designs and builds a furniture table to play like a Diamond or Gold Crown...is the day I'd change my mind about a furniture tables.

Glen

Show your wife Glen's post and tell her that he is just about the country's leading expert on tables. Then show her the Diamond Professional - it's a good looking table - and tell her she can pick out the type of wood and the color of the stain. You can also get a Diamond light and spectator chairs that match the table. The Diamond Pro-Am is a better table per Glen, but it's not so elegant looking.
 
What else do I need to know before I drop 5 grand on a table?

It needs 6 pockets, preferably equally spaced from corner to corner. Said pockets should be larger than the balls. Avoid salesmen who will try to sell you on "that hole in the center of the table" as an exclusive bonus feature.

You might want to avoid "multi-purpose" tables that serve as guest beds and banquet tables for "that special Viking in your life".
 
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All I can tell you about furniture pool tables...is that I stay away from them as much as I can. I don't really care for the construction of the frames, the design of the pockets, or for the rail design for that matter either. They all use the #6 pocket irons for the most part, most all have either MDF or particle board for the slate liner that the cloth is stapled to, which won't last with repeated recovering of the table. I don't care to much for antiques either, they're really out dated and cost a bundle if you want to fix one up to play more modern like, and in a lot of cases even that won't help. None of the furniture tables carry much of a resale value what-so-ever, so I consider them to be pretty much a waste of money. The day someone designs and builds a furniture table to play like a Diamond or Gold Crown...is the day I'd change my mind about a furniture tables.

Glen

What about Diamond furniture tables? They've got the Tiffany and Jubilee that are furniture styles. Stay away from these to as much as you can?
 
One thing to take into consideration is this. If you want to practice at home & take your game to the pool hall, maybe the same sorta table setup would make the transition easier.

If you play on a 9 ft, with Simonis cloth, & go to a BarBox with elephant hair for cloth, things will be different.

A Gold Crown plays a little different than a Diamond.... it's a consideration worth thinking about.
 
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What about Diamond furniture tables? They've got the Tiffany and Jubilee that are furniture styles. Stay away from these to as much as you can?

I don't much care for any home style furniture table:grin: but if I was to get one, I'd make damn sure I got it from a company that is going to be just as easy to call and talk to if you have a compaint...as they are easy to talk to when you're giving them your MONEY to BUY a table. Diamond is the only company I know of that if you call them....they answer the phone, and TALK to you. Diamond also don't use sales pitches like "Made in America" to sell their product, or say we "Stand behind our product"...because if they have to say it in order to sell you a pool table, then you're in for a real test if you ever have to make that call.

Diamond, I know for a FACT stands behind their product, 100% and never avoids taking phone calls AFTER they've been paid.

Glen
 
If you have a good Connelly and Proline dealer anywhere near you check out those tables for good furniture models. A Connelly table with an Ultimate upgrade comes with 2" solid wood framed slate. 4" solid wood frame and inner components. A good mechanic to do the install and you and your wife are both happy. It seems to me though GC's and Diamond pro's are great tables people seem to be a bit closed minded after. Those aren't the end all be all.
 
So I'll stick with a big name brand. Thats what I was thinking anyway. But I'm still at a loss as to what or why they are better than some of the smaller tables brands. I wonder if some of the price is paying for brand name recognition. Some of these salesmen point out other tables I've never heard of for 1900 bucks and say they are good tables.

I do not think that you are paying for brand name when you buy a good pool table. My son-in-law (with a six figure income) bought a pretty but poor quality table that is now a ping pong table! There are many similar stories, too many to tell.

Slate is the number one requirement. Without slate it will never play right. Rails and pockets are not easy to construct. They must be perfectly square. You should be able to roll a 2 1/4" ball from one corner pocket, hit the end rail, and have the ball return to the same place on the opposite side of the table. It is no easy matter to make such a table. Because of the weight involved the frame must be substantial and this requires a commitment to making high quality equipment.

I have a Brunswick Gold Crown III and I play on Diamonds from time to time. There are two primary differences. The Diamond has a deeper shelf (area inside the pocket before it drops) and Diamond tables have a cleaner top rail making it easier to bridge.

The current world specification for a table is that it should have 4 1/2" corner pocket openings. You can specifiy these types of pockets when you buy a table and this should be a "requirement."

Older tables that have slate, good rails, and have been refurbished with new rails for the 4 1/2" pockets can be an excellent buy. Stay away from tables with "shimmed pockets." On these tables the rails have not been replaced. The pockets have been added to with a piece of rubber. If I were to buy an older table for $2,000.00 I would expect to pay $1,000.00 or more to bring it up to standards.

While I have had a GC III for over 20 years and I like it very much, if I were to buy a new table I would probably buy a Diamond. The table is of the same quality as a Brunswick, it is less expensive, and it has the features noted above. I would think that you could get their pro quality table with some sort of character that might please your spouse. Incidentally the rail surfaces and side skirts on the Diamond are indeed a thing of beauty. Perhaps she needs to see one in person to appreciate the excellent craftsmanship.

Personally, I prefer the wood appearance and Diamond has done an excellent job here. The wood veener can be used in many different decorating schemes. If my wife did not like my masculine looking pool room she would not be in it very often and that would not be good. I think that you are truly using your head when you take your wife's needs into consideration. Aside from all of the jokes, this is the way to build a pool room to last a life time. In our family the pool room becomes a banquet hall during the holidays and our large extended family actually prefers to be at Grandma's house for dinner.

I would not be concerned with factory service from any group. There are many excellent table mechanics and after 20 years the parts will be available for any of the current quality tables.

This is one of those areas in life where you get what you pay for. If you want to be playing on your table 20 years from now buy a good one. It is more than worth the money. A good pool room can be part of a life style and many of my professional friends enjoy an evening at our home. Take your time, build a good one and it can make life better for you and for your family.
 
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I agree that Brunswick and Diamond are not the only good tables. However, they are the two companies who set the standards and I personally prefer the best equipment for the money. If I were wealthy, I might buy something a little offbeat but it would have to meet Brunswick standards and these table would probably cost twice (or more) the cost of the industry standards.
 
While I did not do it intentionally I have found that many of my friends had never played on a compeition quality pool table and they were very impressed when they played on mine. There is just something elegant about playing on profesional quality equipment that adds to the joy of playing.

The table has even been influential in getting some of my friends to pay more attention to the sport of pool and in a few cases has helped others to decide that they too wanted a compeition quality table for all the benefits it brings.
 
When I was looking for a table I investigated the construction. Diamonds weren't around at the time.

I bought a Brunswick because of the construction.

The slate goes completely under the rails instead of just to it. The rails are attached by slots that have nuts in them, machine bolts go thru holes in the slate into those nuts. Some tables just use wood screws or inserts that can pull out.

The slate is matched and registered. There are dowel pins between the seams of the slate that help align the peices. Each piece of slate is also framed by wood.

The cushions as someone else stated will not rot. My table was bought in the early 70's. I still play on the original cloth. Still in great shape other than the visible rail tracks and spots from ball hop from breaking.

The pockets were the only one at the time that were according to the BCA specifications. They also have a 1 1/2' ledge On some tables there is no room for the ball to be past the rail in the pocket opening.

The frame is sturdy and well built to handle the weight of the slate. The table does not wobble or move when reaching for a shot. The rail targets are pearl inserts, not painted on. The pockets are drop leather with irons that insert into the rail. Table weighs 1130 lbs

Height is 31 3/4' to the rail and 30" to the the bed.

Came with Centennial balls.

Once you start comparing tables you will notice the differences. You do pay for the name because the name stands for well built tables.

If you are not serious get a cheap table. The cheap table will make you lose interest because it will not be enjoyable to play on.
 
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LOL, i went through the same thing with my wife. She wanted a piece of furniture and i wanted a playing table. Well we ended up with this

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Afterwards she says, "It looks like it came from the 60's" I say "It sure does, Absolutely perfect and it plays nice too!!!

She still doesnt like it but its starting to grow on her.

I had a furniture table when i lived in Phoenix, It looked very good but it played like sh##. I hardly ever played on it. Now i look foward to playing on my Gold Crown everyday
 
If it were me looking for a table for the house and I "had" to buy a furniture table the last thing I would do would be to buy it brand new. Check Craig's list, Backpage, Ebay and the want ads and you will be able to find one at a fraction of the cost of a new one. Also, odds are that the furniture table will not have been used much. You could also get in touch with a table tech in your area - they might have a line on a good used table.

With that being said. I think that if you go with the table you are not wanting to play on you will do just that..not play on it. Soon, it will become a very large, mostly unused piece of furniture taking up room. Convince the wife that you really need to go with a Gold Crown or a Diamond. If money is a concern, look around for a good used Gold Crown. If it is not a concern buy a New Diamond. If you can find a used Diamond that would be great but they do not come up used as often as the GC. This is just two bits coming from a guy that has a 60's GC in his man-cave.

Good luck on your endeavor
 
I recently went into a couple different billiard stores looking at pool tables. I want something that plays good and my wife wants something that looks good. She's ruled out gold crowns and diamonds. So I'm stuck looking at 'other' tables. I quickly learned that I know next to nothing about pool tables. I know that I want Simonis 860, and 4.5 inch pockets with slate at least an inch thick but thats about all I guess. The sales people start going off about Brazilian slate and that it is one step below Italian slate but won't make a difference in how the balls roll or its constructed of all African hardwood or some crap. I just nod my head like a chick talking to a auto mechanic. I've learned to look under the tables and sure table A has more bracing than table B. But are there some guidelines to go by?

One salesperson told me Olhausen is all but Bankrupt, and Brunswick (I think) sold a part of there company to some shuffleboard company. Should this be a concern? I don't want to have issues in the future obtaining parts.

What else do I need to know before I drop 5 grand on a table?

I was once like you I built a addition on to my house with a new dining room for the wife and a new pool room for me. Although I new about Gold crowns I felt they had no place in a home., so I bought a fine table from Olhausen it was solid oak with upgraded slate. It played good but not like a Gold crown, it was not long after that that I started getting competition table envy. Then one day I stumbled on a dude that owned a Diamond pro and the rest is history. I sat on the Olhausen until someone said if you ever want to sell it let me know and I did. You are getting some great advice from many respected posters. The advice that JoeW and realking cobra is giving you is spot on. Since I put a Diamond in the house I have never looked back. Good luck on your choice.
 
The things I believe are important are thick slate with hardwood frame on the slate. Solid hardwood heavy duty table frame. Hardwood rails rather than particle board rails.

My buddy had a Brunswick Ventura ( I believe) that was a furniture table that played well.
 
When I was looking for a table I investigated the construction. Diamonds weren't around at the time.

I bought a Brunswick because of the construction.

The slate goes completely under the rails instead of just to it. The rails are attached by slots that have nuts in them, machine bolts go thru holes in the slate into those nuts. Some tables just use wood screws or inserts that can pull out.

The slate is matched and registered. There are dowel pins between the seams of the slate that help align the peices. Each piece of slate is also framed by wood.

The cushions as someone else stated will not rot. My table was bought in the early 70's. I still play on the original cloth. Still in great shape other than the visible rail tracks and spots from ball hop from breaking.

The pockets were the only one at the time that were according to the BCA specifications. They also have a 1 1/2' ledge On some tables there is no room for the ball to be past the rail in the pocket opening.

The frame is sturdy and well built to handle the weight of the slate. The table does not wobble or move when reaching for a shot. The rail targets are pearl inserts, not painted on. The pockets are drop leather with irons that insert into the rail. Table weighs 1130 lbs

Height is 31 3/4' to the rail and 30" to the the bed.

Came with Centennial balls.

Once you start comparing tables you will notice the differences. You do pay for the name because the name stands for well built tables.

If you are not serious get a cheap table. The cheap table will make you lose interest because it will not be enjoyable to play on.

Interesting...What size is the corner pocket - moputh and throat?

Thanks,
Ryan
 
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