Which is the better joint.......

Evnflo

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I was wondering what AZ's opinions are on having a custom cue made with an ivory joint vs. phenolic joint and why... whats the difference in hit, durability, etc..
 
I was wondering what AZ's opinions are on having a custom cue made with an ivory joint vs. phenolic joint and why... whats the difference in hit, durability, etc..

I like ivory, though many cue makers only put an ivory sleeve over wood or steel. I like a big pin 3/8 x 10 or 11 tpi. With a decent thickness in the ivory wall and flat faced. It's really a matter of preference.
 
I like ivory, though many cue makers only put an ivory sleeve over wood or steel. I like a big pin 3/8 x 10 or 11 tpi. With a decent thickness in the ivory wall and flat faced. It's really a matter of preference.

It is a matter of personal preference.

I have never liked a full-ivory joint, but many do.
 
Hawaiian Black:wink:

Seriously its a personal prefernce IMHO, I really don't think any one type is better than another. My personal preference is Metal or wood to wood and I dislike Ivory of those I have played with. I would never rule out any cue because of the joint if it felt and hit well. I believe the Tip, Ferule & Taper will have more effect than any joint.
 
It is a personal choice. I prefer big pin flat faced joints in ivory but I have a few in phenolic and steel. I can not tell the difference in hit between them with my eyes closed.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk.
 
With the choices you presented I'd take the phenolic on durability as it can be a very strong material and on feel because there is usually more wood to wood contact than in an ivory joint except for the ivory sleeved joints. Phenolic isn't really subject to breakage like ivory can be with temperature changes too.

Ivory is beautiful and can be very strong if well done by the cue maker and cared for by the cues owner but just not my thing in ferrules or joints.

For me it's either phenolic wood to wood, stainless steel or buck horn which I really like the durability of and feel.
 
To me it is more cosmetic. I think it may aid a cue maker in balancing a cue and may alter the feel somewhat.

I have read where some think it does something magical like making the cue draw the CB or put more english on it but that is ridiculous hype.

A joint serves one purpose. To join the shaft to the butt. If joints did something magical why is there only one? :shrug:


.
 
Yes, it's personal preference but if I were an elephant, I'd probably play with a phenolic joint. Just sayin'.
 
Last edited:
I was wondering what AZ's opinions are on having a custom cue made with an ivory joint vs. phenolic joint and why... whats the difference in hit, durability, etc..
I was at a Trade Show a few decades ago standing around with a group of well known cue makers. The consensus was that if you took a range of joint types and put duct tape over them, no player could tell which was which beyond his chance of random guessing. This experiment was actually tried, but I don't remember who did it. It might have been John McChesney (RIP), one of the founders of Texas Express. The result was that no one could tell the difference.

That doesn't mean the joint type couldn't have some kind of psychological effect. And as said above, the density of the joint material could affect how the cue is designed to get the balance in the right place.

In my experience, ivory is not the best choice for durability.
 
I was at a Trade Show a few decades ago standing around with a group of well known cue makers. The consensus was that if you took a range of joint types and put duct tape over them, no player could tell which was which beyond his chance of random guessing. This experiment was actually tried, but I don't remember who did it. It might have been John McChesney (RIP), one of the founders of Texas Express. The result was that no one could tell the difference.

That doesn't mean the joint type couldn't have some kind of psychological effect. And as said above, the density of the joint material could affect how the cue is designed to get the balance in the right place.

In my experience, ivory is not the best choice for durability.

100 % with you here Bob,

made this *test* with 4 different Joint with 5 players. Noone was able to really find out, with which type of joint he was playin. All very advanced players- carom and poolers, too.
 
I was at a Trade Show a few decades ago standing around with a group of well known cue makers. The consensus was that if you took a range of joint types and put duct tape over them, no player could tell which was which beyond his chance of random guessing. This experiment was actually tried, but I don't remember who did it. It might have been John McChesney (RIP), one of the founders of Texas Express. The result was that no one could tell the difference.

That doesn't mean the joint type couldn't have some kind of psychological effect. And as said above, the density of the joint material could affect how the cue is designed to get the balance in the right place.

In my experience, ivory is not the best choice for durability.

http://groups.google.com/group/rec.sport.billiard/msg/355891125d3f2863
 
I'd go with the phenolic. Only for the durability and cost. But choose what YOU want. Otherwise it will forever be buyer's regret.

Mark Shuman
 
I think the different joints provides the back hand with a certain feel.I think a steel joint provides a hard hit but less feedback compared to Phenolic Ultrajoint from Lambros that has tremendous feel but not as hard hitting.I think at the end of the day its all about the feel and hit of a cue that blends with your game and style.:)
 
I prefer an expertly rolled "fattie" of some Red Hair Sensimilla, totally skunky! Again, as many folks have pointed out, it's personal preference.

On a serious note, I like a radial pin joint, wood on wood. Just my "preference".
 
Back
Top