Chili Palmer said:

I'd be willing to bet it's 5/16 x 18 pin. A quick search tells me Joss switched to 5/16 x 14 in the 70's (but's that's a Google search so can't confirm). Either way, it looks like a well put together cue with good materials.

What'd you pay for it? My guess is, it's going to be a great player.

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It is a 5/16x18 pin.

Less than a Lucasi.

cuesblues said:

Over the years there has been many cuemaker threads where the topic is unknown, unappreciated, up-and-coming, under valued, most underrated, best value, best cue for under $1000, and my favorite best deal on mall store light-up cues

Specific forums for these topics never work. We have the main forum which gets just enough traffic to keep it interesting

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I’m not sure what your point is. I’ve been in this website a very long time and I don’t recall ever seeing a thread about unappreciated cue makers as the theme. So I’ll let all the readers of this thread chime in with their 2 cents but I have to
challenge you on that point. You say specific forums for this type topic never work and I don’t know if they do or don’t never having seen a forum on Az for that specific category.

Maybe I missed it down thru the years and someone can refresh my memory since I am getting old. But I’ll willingly concede you did make a good point that there’s the main forum which is sufficient to keep it interesting. If you go back and read the opening post for this thread, I acknowledged there wasn’t any forum for this topic which is how come I created it.

Now having explained, or basically equivalently restated what you posted, I’d just like to point out I started this thread in the Main Forum just to keep this topic available for all to read or post their comments on. I never suggested nor did I propose a specific new forum for unappreciated cue makers. I further went on to explain it’s the very reason for this thread that seems to have aroused some interest. So what then was the intention of your post? No one, and I certainly haven’t, proposed a new forum. Oh well, post whatever you like but maybe next time put a little more forethought into what you write and then reread it before posting because, IMO, it would help understanding what you’re referring to?

just shoot it in. straight shot. stop shot. easiest shot in poll.

never put cueball real close to object ball.

putting anything on it and you will be hesitant and choke.

I'd be willing to bet it's 5/16 x 18 pin. A quick search tells me Joss switched to 5/16 x 14 in the 70's (but's that's a Google search so can't confirm). Either way, it looks like a well put together cue with good materials.

What'd you pay for it? My guess is, it's going to be a great player.

That's a good question but I think it's apples and oranges, or the question needs to be more specific. Do I think the top players of today would beat the top players of yesteryear if you do a time warp and drop the top players from today into those times with the knowledge and equipment they have now, yes, definitely. But, had the top players of today been playing in that period then they would have the same knowledge of the game, equipment, practice routines, etc. If you look at some of the people you mention in Fargo, you'll see most of them are mid 700's and they're nowhere near their prime, if they were in their prime I have no doubt most of them would be low to mid 800's and therefore, competitive with today's top players.

If you are not winning, you need to find the weakness in YOUR game.

jimmyg said:

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Wide World of Sports covered a cliff diving event for a few years and of course Elvis made a movie. The trick in some places is that the tide and the wave has to be right. You have to dive when the wave is still out or just starting to come in.

I seemed to remember some tasty girls in that movie so I looked it up. Ursula Andress was one of the girls, the movie was Fun in Acalpuco. Elvis didn't do any of the real diving but the divers were jumping roughly 115' according to the net. These jumps don't look quite that high but nothing about cliff diving, other than the girls, appealed to me even when I was young and dumb!

That cut or whatever is very narrow which makes the water stack up nicely but there isn't much margin for error either where you try to land or timing a wave coming in.

Hu

I have an inexpensive B&W jump/break , cost $275.00 will sell for $150.00 + freight has two shafts , message me if interested.

chillipepr said:

Looking for a pechauer pro butt, currently swapping shafts for breaking and shooting, would like a dedicated butt for my black ice shaft.

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I have a perfect sue for that…. I have a very Clean like newsPechauer Black Sneaky with original shaft & also a Rhino shaft with the Pechauer pin, message me if interested

iusedtoberich said:

Legit question. I've seen it missed a bunch of times over the years, even by mid to high 600's. I played this game about 4 hours last week, and my opponent and I both missed it once in that session. We are both mid 500's. I shot it a bit faster than pocket speed and slightly jacked up. We were on a 4 1/4" Diamond 9'. Was wondering if there is a more high percentage way to play it.

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First, set it up absolutely straight to the center of the pocket. (That's usually very near the intersection of the rail grooves.)

To minimize the effect of unintended sidespin, play with either draw or follow. Some players feel they can find the center of the cue ball better at the bottom, so draw is best for them.

A very old technique for straight-in shots: point your stick at the center of the pocket, not the object ball. The distant target may cause you to aim more precisely. Of course, if you have failed to do step 1 correctly, this won't work very well. (A more general use of the idea when the shot is not perfectly straight is to figure out where in the pocket to point your stick, like at the left point or at that rust spot on the corner casting.)

bbb said:

plus 2 system has less variables and if you get familiar to the ball paths
you can pick your target

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The Plus System is better suited for long shots when going off a short rail first, especially when the target ball is close to a rail, but both systems are useful. The Plus System also requires “benchmark spin,” and it also requires adjustments when the contact point on the first rail is close to either corner pocket.

I have a Entry Level 1x1: Ron Thomas Case of his ( Verified by photo with John Barton) , if interested message me

Make 'em offers...

I don't believe any of the stabilizing agents are safe to use without fresh air, supplied air. I used to know something about xylene, not popping to the top of my head at the moment. I want to say it was a highly dangerous ingredient in some paints such as the three part paints that used equal parts of paint and "hardener" and roughly an equal part of thinner. That info is a little shaky but what isn't shaky is all of that shit is dangerous as hell!

I was using Ditzler products when their high epoxy paint came out, Deltron? similar to Imron. I talked to the factory at least once or twice a week for about six months. Talked to one engineer who I thought I knew well. He told me the double bugeye organic vapor face masks were plenty adequate. After six months my shop foreman and I who painted cars together, were both having to sleep sitting up after spraying a car, breathing issues. I called to talk to the engineer and he was on vacation. Talked to a different engineer. "Oh, we don't let our people even mix that paint without fresh air."

There was something labeled as a respirator number on the side of the paint can, an OSHA number. I spent hours on the phone to OSHA. "That isn't really an OSHA number, it is a bureau of mines number." What the hell, I have ran this rabbit this far, I called the bureau of mines to find out what this respirator was. "The number doesn't refer to a respirator,"(despite the labeling on the can,Hu) "It refers to a pamphlet."

"What is the pamphlet about?"

"Fresh air systems."

While on the general subject, some people finish entire cues with superglue type products. His doctor told one cue maker that this was what was causing him to die. Second hand info, I wasn't in the doctor's office.

Lot's of dangerous stuff out there. Think twice before using it especially in volume. I went back to using standard wood sealers and finishes. I also turned a shaft blank from square to rough tapered in eight to ten turnings then a few more turnings to get to final taper. Out of a gross of blanks, 20-30% became finished shafts. I didn't see that the stabilizers upped the percentage a whole lot. Best I recall, less than ten percent more stayed straightish, and all of them sounded and hit soft. If somebody wanted a sharp sound when hitting a cue ball I couldn't get it with the stabilizers. I could get the medium hard hit I prefer so I used the stabilizers on3-6 gross of shaft blanks.

Main thing I learned about shaft blanks, they make damned good tomato stakes in the garden! Rows and rows of eight dollar apiece tomato stakes.

Hu