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Help me decide the wrap!

WildWing
Chopdoc said:
Maybe I should wrap a cue in the black hemp cord I found, press it, and finish it in my secret sauce, and send it to you to butcher in a review on AZB. LOL! That could be fun.
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It could be fun. Actually I turned a McDermott D-17 into the typical one that looked like Cortland wrap. Takes patience. Bleach with water, very slowly, not drenched, but lightly go over it with the AC or heat going, so it would dry. Over and over. Then, depending on the wrap either burnish with a glass rod, or very fine sandpaper and wax paper. Different techniques for different wraps. I could turn your hemp cord into Cortland.
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Help me decide the wrap!

Chopdoc
WildWing said:
Well, Irish Linen, so to speak, is nothing but fishing line, if we go back to Cortland, which we tend to do. Today's linen only goes on cues that I know of, as the fishing industry has long since gone to Dacron. In fact, if we go back to the Palmer 2 catalog, those cues that were advertised as Irish Linen, actually had Dacron wraps on them. I still have one, Model D, and nothing wrong with it. They found some that looked something like real linen.

If another wrap could be developed, I'd be all for that. Hell, the industry has largely replaced wood shafts with carbon fiber, and the butts as well. I'd like to see an alternative wrap that could look and feel a lot like the old Cortland 9. Easier said than done.
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Maybe I should wrap a cue in the black hemp cord I found, press it, and finish it in my secret sauce, and send it to you to butcher in a review on AZB. LOL! That could be fun.
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Any help identifying this cue

T
Chopdoc said:
I have a 1960s Eckes post card when they were US made. It looks nothing like those. I also have the 1960 catalog when they were made by Adam, and it looks nothing like those. Wish I had more catalogs.

Eckes came to mind first for me and is still high on my list.

I call these "carnival cues". When I was a kid a carnical came to our area. You could win tickets playing games and buy prizes with tickets...you know the drill. The more tickets, the higher the prize was displayed. Up high on the wall was a cue and case. It had pearl rings, points, and a bunch of dot inlays. Sort of like a cue like this but even fancier. I always remember that cue when I see cues like this. It might have been the first two piece cue I ever saw. I was about 8 to 10 years old I think.



Obviously that's the first best guess, but I hate leaving it at that. Some of them are in fact US made, and some of them are Adam made. And then, some of them are just nostalgic.

There was a similar unknown that was relisted several times on eBay that I almost bought several times. It ultimately sold in June for $50.

I should have bought it. Why? I dunno. I'm crazy. But, I do have the pictures.


View attachment 846699

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View attachment 846701

So, if I figure it out I will post it. Yes this cue looks very similar! Thanks for sharing those pics.
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Take all of the weight out of your break cue

Flakeandrun
Saturated Fats said:
A friend of mine who's a local table mechanic was selling various cues made by Mike Gulyassy - the creator of the Sledgehammer jump/break cue. One day he showed up with quite a few break cues for sale. I was able to try out a number of Orange Crusher break cues in different weights. They were otherwise identical. Previous to this, I had only used heavy break cues.

After about 30 minutes of experimenting with the different weights I chose an 18 ounce breaker. For me, the heavier cues didn't produce as much speed as the lighter ones and the cues lighter than 18 ounces were difficult to control.

But that was for me. I don't have any reason to think that others would make the same choice and for the same reasons.
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I was using it at its stock weight. Now using it, at it's minimal weight. Will continue to see how it goes. But you're right, trial and error. See what works for you. As an idea, I do think using a heavier cue and developing the stroke/precision that you want could have some "weight to it" ;)

But really felt good and had good results yesterday, and am keen to continue seeing how it goes.
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Why are there so few black pro players..?

Flakeandrun
hello said:
What does '' "WoMeN sEe CoLoUrS bEtTeR bUt MeN aRe BeTteR aT aImInG" '' mean..?

And while I learned in this thread that blacks at some point could not enter tournaments, we need more opportunities for ''all people'' to play the game today..?Which people have less opportunities apart from the ones living on the south and north poles plus desert tribes..?
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"I'm not getting sucked into this dead weight, but I hope in the future there are more opportunities for all people to play the game we enjoy"
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Take all of the weight out of your break cue

Saturated Fats
Flakeandrun said:
Do it now. Not sure why it's in there to begin with.
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A friend of mine who's a local table mechanic was selling various cues made by Mike Gulyassy - the creator of the Sledgehammer jump/break cue. One day he showed up with quite a few break cues for sale. I was able to try out a number of Orange Crusher break cues in different weights. They were otherwise identical. Previous to this, I had only used heavy break cues.

After about 30 minutes of experimenting with the different weights I chose an 18 ounce breaker. For me, the heavier cues didn't produce as much speed as the lighter ones and the cues lighter than 18 ounces were difficult to control.

But that was for me. I don't have any reason to think that others would make the same choice and for the same reasons.
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(Un)Popular Opinion on Fargo Rate

Wayne Crimi
I'll make one last point. I'm not a chess player, but I follow the game and ratings. I would assume Fargo ratings were developed to be similar to chess ratings. Chess ratings move around much faster than Fargo ratings even though the top players take turns beating each other just like in pool (other than Carlsen). Maybe they should move faster than pool because there's a bit less luck in chess, but I think there's probably something to be learned from that.
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Wood over CF shaft options

Paul_#_
oscargrouch said:
This is what I don't understand. You put the CF in so it can be hollow (or filled w foam which I presume adds negligible weight), thereby reducing end mass blah blah it's lower deflection. So then what is the point of filling the CF with wood?
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My guesses are that it makes for more uniformity in shafts produced, makes shafts more durable, it allows lower quality wood to be used, it produces a non-Revo sound, it makes for a non-Revo hit.
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Help me decide the wrap!

Chopdoc
WildWing said:
Well, Irish Linen, so to speak, is nothing but fishing line, if we go back to Cortland, which we tend to do. Today's linen only goes on cues that I know of, as the fishing industry has long since gone to Dacron. In fact, if we go back to the Palmer 2 catalog, those cues that were advertised as Irish Linen, actually had Dacron wraps on them. I still have one, Model D, and nothing wrong with it. They found some that looked something like real linen.

If another wrap could be developed, I'd be all for that. Hell, the industry has largely replaced wood shafts with carbon fiber, and the butts as well. I'd like to see an alternative wrap that could look and feel a lot like the old Cortland 9. Easier said than done.
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Even the old cases were adapted fishing rod cases.

Cue building borrowed materials from different arts, crafts, and trades.

I do wonder what's "next" for wraps. Personally, I favor natural materials, something that grows out of the ground or that you feed things that grow out of the ground to. Sure, oil comes out of the ground and we make many synthetic materials out of it, but there is no "soul" in the feel of such things.
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