Magictrat007 said:

At the Paul hall we only use ball cleaner. I’m not sure what the point of putting wax or polish on the balls is unless the balls are very old and dull. Once a set gets that old we throw it out?

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The usual point of putting wax or silicone on the balls, in particular the cue ball, is to make them slip and slide on the cloth. That makes it like new cloth, which slips and slides and you can get amazing draw with little effort.

I guess some people use wax to make the balls shiny, but they still get the slip and slide.

Wax on the object balls also makes them slip/slide into the pockets, and take longer angles on bank shots.

jimmyg said:

Breakfast anyone?

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Woof!

As said, can’t really tell without seeing the condition of the cue.

years ago, collectibles used to have higher value if they are in the original condition even if it’s not great.
Back then, a Schon R series might have not regarded as a Collectible but I think today it is, so I would let the buyer decide

At the Pool hall we only use ball cleaner. I’m not sure what the point of putting wax or polish on the balls is unless the balls are very old and dull. Once a set gets that old we throw it out?

SBC said:

130am China time on Sunday which is 130 pm Sunday for Eastern Standard Time.
...

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Saturday Eastern? I think the date line is in play.

heck many/most pool rooms put some silicone product in their ball cleaners. thats why they are so shiny in the pool room. and the balls draw so easily.

most homeowners buy ball cleaner which is the same stuff. similar or the same as a liquid car polish. it does clean the balls nice and pretty.

it also ends up in the cloth.

fastone371 said:

100 doesn't seem like very many, especially when you consider that they will most likely be available world wide.

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In electronic hardware development it is a Bad idea to jump from an alpha stage to thousands (full production) without a beta stage. 100 tests the market and allows room for feedback.

Not Dead Ted said:

That is a good question, and one that I don't have the answer to.

Are LD shafts more forgiving if there is error in choosing the point you pivot the cue around? I don't know, I'm waiting for someone to do the experiments on this.

In the meantime I will stick with a maple shaft that has a 12" pivot point. At least with it, the pivot point is in the visual field so I can see where I am pivoting.

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The only real advantage to ld shafts are that variable conditions like humidity, temperature etc, are less problematic because the shaft isn't going as far off of the centerline due to minimal cueball deflection (squirt). Many people have a problem with ld shafts being called low deflection, because the shafts themselves don't deflect less, the cueball is what deflects less, which is commonly referred to as squirt, as the cb squirts off of the cue's line opposite the offset amount.

I've successfully used bhe with high deflection and low deflection and everything in between. Funny story that I've told on here before, I was visiting one of the AZBers, in Virginia I think or North Carolina? His name is Matt, his handle was something like coolkat9lives or something.

Anyways, I met him at his local pool hall and we played some and he introduced me to a few of the locals and one of them was an older gentleman who had a classic cue, can't remember the brand, I think it was a...I can't remember (I remembered just before I hit submit, it was a Tascarella), it was a nice older cue with an old growth maple shaft, standard deflection.

I had just recently finished my prototype ld wood shaft with standard feel and was showing them and had them shoot a couple of shots with it. The older gentlemen questioned me about BHE since I was explaining what I had to do to use it for a ld shaft and I told him, I can adjust to any cue with just a few shots.

He was skeptical so he handed me his cue. I took a few shots to find the pivot point and proceded to run out one or two racks. Both of them were really surprised that I could adjust to a cue that was so different so quickly.