billiards_watch said:

People have asked me in the past and I told them 'gambling'.

A lot of good/great players are gamblers and much better players than the instructors out there.

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But can they teach.

bbb said:

Great shooting bob
So is the other video of you making a 90 degree cut
I see you are using what looks like a carbon fiber shaft now
In your old video, you were using a wood shaft
Do you think the wood shaft makes it easier because of more deflection?

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I think you want a low deflection shaft for this kind of shot. Less compensation. The cue in the video is a 12.0 Revo.

cueball2010 said:

I would really like some lessons on using English.

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Find someone who understands the physics of ball to ball elastic collisions.

Much of the problem is not the spin itself, but the fact that applying spin brings multiple other "stuff" into play::
a) the CB starts off on a path unlike center ball hit (deflection)
b) the CB swerves while on the path to OB
c) the contact has "more physics" applied (Spin induced Throw)
d) meaning OB takes a path different that that same contact with non-spinning CB
e) and you have to COMPENSATE for all of this before choosing the OB contact point.

Causing CB to roll with side spin is the easy part--compensating for all the nuances is the hard part.

straightline said:

If one can produce that trick in a match, one does not need that trick.

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That doesn't make any sense.

Chopdoc said:

... Can it be done? Yes. In one shot? In a match? That's a different matter.

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I practice the shot. I play it in matches. Not as tough as the shot in the video, but a lot tougher than most of my competition is willing to shoot at.

I believe I heard Dallas West saying he would push out to a very thin cut. These look impossible to a lot of players, so they would pass it back to him. Then he would shoot it in.

skor said:

Most clubs here have bridges for snooker made of metal, I prefer the X metal bridge. these bridges are less likely to damage the shafts. ...

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When it comes to the design of bridges/rests the snooker people are way ahead of the pool people because they have to be.

The innovation at snooker is all of the extender handles for both cues and rests. I remember when we had to use the 9-foot cue stick with the matching 9-foot rest.

DrCue'sProtege said:

Just wondering what everyone thinks of Pechauer cues? I am thinking about purchasing one and just wondering if anyone here plays with a Pechauer. Or knows anything about them recently?

It's always nice to have some good recommendations on a cuemaker before purchasing.

r/DCP

p.s. people, don't start. I am talking about insults, twisting things around, trashing & bashing, etc. Just don't start.

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Get a Pro Series. The Pro series are far nicer, from the looks of them. Just avoid the JP series. Are are cheap, and look cheap, in my opinion.

Pechauer are really great cues, in my opinion. Pechauer has their own forest, that they get all of their wood from, from what I read. How cool is that? I always thought that sounded really nice.

Anyways, I woukd highly recommend the Pro series.

The only negative thing I have to say is that they do not use real Ebony on any of their cues, that retail for under $1k.

I woukd avoid anything that is advertised as Ebonized Maple, iirc. I just think that sounds really cheap.

Pechauer told me awhile back that Ebony has gotten too expensive to use in any cues prices under $1k, so it seems that they just spray paint the cue Black over Maple, which just sounds so genetic and cheap to me.

jimmyco said:

Do these lock together snug enough where you only need one shaft?

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The Russo bridge heads do lock together pretty well, but I would not trust them with only one handle. I think they would need a metal pin or something similar. They are only a press fit of tab into slot. They are nylon, I think.

Centennials by a LANDSLIDE!!!...

this older thread may interest you.

https://forums.azbilliards.com/threads/pool-ball-weights.536976/

vintagecollectibles831 said:

Curious, what might you do to restore something like this? Would you refinish it? Build a new shaft for it? Just curious what people have done to old cues like this. Thanks.

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If the cue wood is stable (no cracks or loose parts), do nothing to it except a possible new tip.

cueball2010 said:

I would really like some lessons on using English.

I am acquainted with a couple of instructors just from frequenting my local pool hall. I have talked to them sometimes but not inquired about lessons. When I mention BHE, FHE, Parallel, I kind of get blank stares. Maybe they are old school and these are new terms?

What is the best way to seek out an instructor? What kind of questions should one ask? Or do you just take a lesson to decide if you like the instructor or not?

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Referrals welcome. TBH, I've taken players from C-level to semi-pro level. And I know BHE, FHE, parallel and more and can help you parse 'em.

New WPA rules released a few days ago made a change to bridge rules. "When using a bridge, the cue must be supported by the head of the bridge" as per Dr. Dave's rule change summary guide.

kling&allen said:

I’m not an expert but I have converted and restore ancient Brunswick cues and “old rock” is a fitting name for them, in a good way. I’m always amazed by the dense grain pattern from the lumber that was available in those days.

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Curious, what might you do to restore something like this? Would you refinish it? Build a new shaft for it? Just curious what people have done to old cues like this. Thanks.

kling&allen said:

I’m not an expert but I have converted and restore ancient Brunswick cues and “old rock” is a fitting name for them, in a good way. I’m always amazed by the dense grain pattern from the lumber that was available in those days.

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That is really cool. The shaft wood sure does look old on it. I am far from an expert though, lol. I do however know what garbage shaft wood looks like. I was always fascinated by these old Antique Billiards cues. I would be shocked if the cue were straight though.

vintagecollectibles831 said:

Thanks a lot for the info. So, it might be Japanese made, or converted by a Japanese cue maker.

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I’m not an expert but I have converted and restore ancient Brunswick cues and “old rock” is a fitting name for them, in a good way. I’m always amazed by the dense grain pattern from the lumber that was available in those days.