Home table playability

3RAILKICK

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
For those who have or are planning to have a home table-what is your take on the setup/playability?

Compared to most tables that you play on in poolrooms(tournament/gamble), what elements are you looking for in your home table?

Tighter/looser pockets?

Cushions that bank 'true'?

Cloth speed/durability?

I just wonder how people want their tables to play. Like the poolroom, or much more...........?, so that conditions are very different at home vs at most rooms?

The question is probably not very clear-just wondering the thought process and the goal in choosing the way the home tables are set up to play.

Home=perfect? Rooms=local knowledge variables in play?

Thanks
 
For those who have or are planning to have a home table-what is your take on the setup/playability?

Compared to most tables that you play on in poolrooms(tournament/gamble), what elements are you looking for in your home table?

Tighter/looser pockets?

Cushions that bank 'true'?

Cloth speed/durability?

I just wonder how people want their tables to play. Like the poolroom, or much more...........?, so that conditions are very different at home vs at most rooms?

The question is probably not very clear-just wondering the thought process and the goal in choosing the way the home tables are set up to play.

Home=perfect? Rooms=local knowledge variables in play?

Thanks

i just got a GC III figured i couldnt go wrong there the 1st thing i had done was change the cloth and check the rail rubbers. i wanted a table to play as good as the nicer poolhalls .
 
The pool table is the one thing I don't go looking for bargains for. Good cloth, good rails, and set-up right. All the rest is a cue you like with a good tip and your good to go. Johnnyt
 
My home table has always been setup for toughest conditions I could find.

I have recently gone from shimmed pockets to rail extensions with 4.5 inch pockets. Prior to that I had the table configured with triple shims from 1994-2005 and then double shimmed until this past October. I have always had Simonis 860 on the table but for this go around I have 860 HR in tourney Blue.

It is the only Gold Crown that Real King Cobra has worked on in MD and without a doubt the best playing GC II in the state.

For those who have or are planning to have a home table-what is your take on the setup/playability?

Compared to most tables that you play on in poolrooms(tournament/gamble), what elements are you looking for in your home table?

Tighter/looser pockets?

Cushions that bank 'true'?

Cloth speed/durability?

I just wonder how people want their tables to play. Like the poolroom, or much more...........?, so that conditions are very different at home vs at most rooms?

The question is probably not very clear-just wondering the thought process and the goal in choosing the way the home tables are set up to play.

Home=perfect? Rooms=local knowledge variables in play?

Thanks
 
What size pockets did you/will you go with?

Is 4 1/4 corners OK for 1P and rotation games? 4 1/2 if you practice mostly 14.1?

Can the table play tougher but better than most poolhall tables at the same time?
 
I just set up my table recently and I wanted it to play like the tightest tables at the Old Hollywood Billiards. New rubber, Simonis Cloth and made the pockets 4 inches. I want my home table to be a challenge so that when I play a tournament it will be easier to pocket balls.
The big difference between home tables and hall tables is that they are cleaner. You don't have the yahoos spilling beer and sodas on them. I keep the cloth clean. Some places I've played don't clean the balls that often or the cloth for that manner.
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Don't have one yet.

Diamond table with Simonis 860 and 4" or smaller pockets would be ideal.
 
Can the table play tougher but better than most poolhall tables at the same time?

Yes. No funny rolls. Pocket facings cut to specs (i.e. no gaff pockets with rounded facings).

You can take a table with 3 7/8" pockets that play tougher but better than another table with 4 1/8" pockets that have rounded facings and a couple of rolls.
 
In an ideal world I think a home table should roll as cleanly as possible. You want to be able to try things out and not get wrong or inconsistent feedback. This means cloth in good condition, balls in good condition, no dead rails, professionally leveled, pockets cut to spec. As far as pocket size, cut angle, and shelf size, I would mimic whatever is the tightest table you would normally play on. Like I said though, that is in an ideal world. Just getting a table is the most important part.

A log of guys think if you play on the "best equipment" around, then you won't be able to play anywhere else when conditions are poor. I think that's a bunch of bullshit. You're better off honing your skills on a table that rolls "standard" so you can build a solid foundation, and then learn what adjustments need to be made for other tables. Trying to adjust from your baseline of a poor rolling table makes it's twice as difficult, because you're really adjusting to a "standard" rolling table, and then adjusting to whatever is throwing out the table you're playing on.

On the topic of pocket tightness, I think the right size is more subjective to your speed. You don't want something that is so tight you can't really play position around the table. And you also don't want something so loose that won't challenge your potting. The other thing about tables that are ultra tight, is you get less of a feel for runouts. A good balance is definitely key, but I would err on the side of a little tighter than a litter looser. It's always easier to adjust from a tighter table to a looser one, and from a bigger one to a smaller one. The other way around takes much longer.
 
I have a shitty basement that gets some water in it sometimes so I didn't invest a lot of money in putting a table there. I just have a table I purchased from namco. Shimmed the pockets...simonis cloth...fast rails..and centennial balls. Does it play as good as a gold crown..no...but it plays better then 90 percent of the bar tables I play on for leagues and tournaments that's for sure.
 
Not sure if this was directed to me but I will answer.

Went with 4.5 in pockets after some discussion with RKC, he thought that was the best considering the slate shelf and other factors on a GCII.

Good one pocket players think tighter pockets like 4.25 are best. Personally I think smaller pockets take away from some of the skills required for straight and rotation pool. Cheating the pocket for position is one of those skills that are impacted with 4.25 pockets.

Tougher but better? Depends on how you define them. My pockets are configured to play as much like a diamond as a GC can. Not everything has to do with the opening measurement. The geometry of the pockets, play a role in how it plays.

With the Artimus cushions and the tuning of the rails my table finally plays at an acceptable speed, and the banks roll true.


What size pockets did you/will you go with?

Is 4 1/4 corners OK for 1P and rotation games? 4 1/2 if you practice mostly 14.1?

Can the table play tougher but better than most poolhall tables at the same time?
 
If 4" corner pockets are what make everyone better players, then WHY aren't all of you who think 4" pockets make you so much better at pocketing the balls....running out, and beating the world on Diamond's with 4 1/2" corner pockets, I mean...you guys should NEVER miss, right?
If a lesser player can beat you on a table with 4 1/2" corner pockets, and you practice on a table with 4" pockets....YOU ALL need to go back to the drawing board, because you MISSED something somewhere, because you should be WINNING on a table with bigger pockets, not getting BEAT by lesser players!

Glen
 
my home table is a 8ft valley with reasonably tight pockets, 2 balls dont fit, simonis and slightly rolls off, its more of a work bench these days but when i do play on it its tougher than the league tables i play of so it seems like a very easy transition.
 
I'm having an 8' Brunswick Anniversary redone. 860HR tournament blue cloth, new facings and pockets, new solid maple skirting.I want the pockets to be no smaller than 4 1/2" actually would prefer slightly larger. I don't need 4" pockets to frustrate me.

It's 8' because that's the space I have available. Looking forward to playing on it when it's finished.
 
Sounds like 4 1/2 is the consensus. That will probably cover most games for playability.

Thanks for the opinions.

Take care
 
If 4" corner pockets are what make everyone better players, then WHY aren't all of you who think 4" pockets make you so much better at pocketing the balls....running out, and beating the world on Diamond's with 4 1/2" corner pockets, I mean...you guys should NEVER miss, right?
If a lesser player can beat you on a table with 4 1/2" corner pockets, and you practice on a table with 4" pockets....YOU ALL need to go back to the drawing board, because you MISSED something somewhere, because you should be WINNING on a table with bigger pockets, not getting BEAT by lesser players!

Glen

Having 4 inch pockets forces me to concentrate and slow down. That is why I set up my table that way. It's for me to get better on and 4 inch pockets is a challenge. I still use all the same english and stoke but it just forces me to have my eyes in the right place and follow my stroking line.
Everyone losses to lesser players, but I find I'm doing that more infrequently now. I have an easier time playing on a Diamond 4 1/2 pocket except for the banking. Takes me a while to adjust to the rails and also how the balls take the spin off the rails.
No drawing board here Glen, my table is doing exactly what I intended it to do, bust my ass and force me to play right.
 
A home table is a lottery fantasy for me. House not big enough, yet in this rain country I do not want to remove garage space from the cars.

My fantasy table would be 4 1/2" pockets...twice the dia. of the balls just seems right to me.

The fantasy table itself? A restored Brunswick Centennial or a diamond 9'.
I keep going from one to the other.
 
What size pockets did you/will you go with?

Is 4 1/4 corners OK for 1P and rotation games? 4 1/2 if you practice mostly 14.1?

Can the table play tougher but better than most poolhall tables at the same time?
In time you'll find that the 4 1/2 will suit you and most that come to play, best for all around play of all games. Don't cut cost for rails and cloth.
 
IMO, 4 1/4 pocket at home will hurt your game more than it helps. When playing with real tight pockets, you become frustrated with all the miss shot. Add to that that your style of game changes because you can't force anything, or hit shot with some speed. If you consistently miss a shot on really tight tables, under pressure situations, you mind will revert back to missing the shot, even though you are playing on a bigger pocket table, you find a way to miss the shot.

The other hand, if playing on a loose table, you start running out and your confidence gets better, you know you can make shots, you enjoy your practice more and it becomes a fun game, not a all out concentration war just to make a ball.

JMO, I have had both type of tables.
 
Is the pocket measured at the mouth or in the back of the pocket. I have always assumed mouth but need to be sure as I am in the process of rebuilding my table.

I do have some insight into the tight vs loose pocket debate. My pockets are 5" at the mouth after being shimmed...don't ask long story. We have a couple of pool halls here that like tight pockets. I find no problems going to the tighter pockets after practicing on my buckets. Going to a 4" pocket doesn't make sense to me as running out a table is as much mental as it is physical. The more times you face the pressure of running a rack the more times you will get to the opportunity of running a next rack. I do not feel that same sense of accomplishment when running out on my 5" pockets as expectations are that you should run out with any opportunity.

My conclusion is that 4.5" is the best balance between challenging oneself and building self confidence.

Just my $.02
 
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