auto clear question

snipershot said:
Ivd tried 3 different epoxies including west system 105/207 and have failed at all of them. I love the hardness and clarity of the 207, but its so thick, I couldn't get the lumps out of it after it cured. Maybe I should try brushing it on? I'm familiar with spraying so that's why I thought id give it a shot. That's for all the info. Rick, Bob, Larry, Joey, and almost everyone else, thanks a ton. I appreciate it :thumbup: Hey Joey, what's the difference between shrinking and sinking? Is sinking like soaking in?

Joe
Click to expand...
Lumps? How were you applying it? Use a good foam brush and spin at 90 rpm. I use a foam brush for the Enduro as well, but can't comment on auto clears. I can say that I know plenty of guys who can roll and tip Awlgrip(linear polyeurothane)and it looks like it was sprayed.

To revisit what has already been touched.

1. Temperature is very important. You probably have the right activators for colder apps, since you know your stuff from shooting cars. Everyone else should pay attention to keeping the environment at 70+ degrees..

2. IMO, the epoxy base is imperative. It fills all the voids and grain, giving a stable substrate just as a high solids primer would in an auto app.

3. Waiting a few days before final finishing is important to let all of the solvents flash. Ask anyone who has done cars and they will most likely tell you not to apply wax for the first 30 days after a new finish. The person who mentioned waiting 3 days or more on Enduro is correct. You can scuff with 400 after an hour for another coat, but wait 2 or more days before final. Also, follow the directions for the crosslinker word for word. Get the ratio perfect.

I think the correct application of epoxy will solve the majority of your issues. I just grabbed a cue I finished(2 years ago...my first ever) and the shrinking was negligible. I worked in several shops, but never did "completes".
 
When will you learn that your opinion in certain members posts on here are not appreciated? Joe and myselfs included along many many others.

Your a lying, wood stealing anoying waste of life who has no room to give advice to anyone as the advice you have was all ill gotten and most of the shit you post you've never even done yourself letalone ever figured out by yourself. Get the hint man people don't like you and don't want you around and especially joe and myself don't want your halfassed thieved opinions. No matter what name you use on here.






Guerra Cues said:
Joe,

I would follow Larry's suggestions. He is one heck of a pro and I would listen to him carefully.
What he said, seal the cue and if you have metal rings, might be a good idea to use an adhesion promoter.
We all understand your passion about start making cues, but when you ask certain questions and then you state you painted thousands of cars, I do wonder :confused:
If you use the search function here, there are several people that mention brand names of auto clear...
Like I said before... There is no magic formula, just your own.
I use 2 type of auto clears with no issues...
But I spent quite a bit of money on experimenting it... I was not the only one around here spending money and experimenting stuff...
I found my formula and I am sticking to it and I am keeping the secret to myself.
Click to expand...
 
pescadoman said:
Lumps? How were you applying it? Use a good foam brush and spin at 90 rpm. I use a foam brush for the Enduro as well, but can't comment on auto clears. I can say that I know plenty of guys who can roll and tip Awlgrip(linear polyeurothane)and it looks like it was sprayed.

To revisit what has already been touched.

1. Temperature is very important. You probably have the right activators for colder apps, since you know your stuff from shooting cars. Everyone else should pay attention to keeping the environment at 70+ degrees..

2. IMO, the epoxy base is imperative. It fills all the voids and grain, giving a stable substrate just as a high solids primer would in an auto app.

3. Waiting a few days before final finishing is important to let all of the solvents flash. Ask anyone who has done cars and they will most likely tell you not to apply wax for the first 30 days after a new finish. The person who mentioned waiting 3 days or more on Enduro is correct. You can scuff with 400 after an hour for another coat, but wait 2 or more days before final. Also, follow the directions for the crosslinker word for word. Get the ratio perfect.

I think the correct application of epoxy will solve the majority of your issues. I just grabbed a cue I finished(2 years ago...my first ever) and the shrinking was negligible. I worked in several shops, but never did "completes".
Click to expand...

I've been spinning the butts on my tapering lathe that can go super super slow and mixing up the epoxy and putting it on with my hands. The epoxy I used prior to the west 207 was thinner and it got lumpy and uneven when I put it on, but after it spun for a few hours, it leveled out and was very nice, but I kept getting TONS of air bubbles in it, so it got tossed, lol. Ill try the foam brush idea, and I'm definately gonna get some of that stuff Joey posted about. I keep my shop at least 70 degrees. Last night when I got in there it was freakin 80! Lol. I turned one of the heaters off and the coolest it got was 73 all the way until 5am when I closed up. Thanks for the input man, I appreciate it.

Joe
 
JoeyInCali said:
Sinking, soaking and wicking, all same to me. :grin-square:
Try RAKA as basecoat. It's very thin.

Use no powder latex glove.
Click to expand...

can i use these instead of gloves?
i can brush up on my math skills at the same time;)
luv my flashcard/epoxy spreaders:thumbup:

> 4+5 = 9
 

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Joe
Have you seen the finishing vid from Hightower?
He shows how to get rid of the bubbles....
I'll pm you if you want
 
uv light

JoeyInCali said:
RAKA has a new epoxy that I'm trying now.
http://store.raka.com/uvepoxysystem.aspx
For those who might not want to spray or want an epoxy basecoat.

It lays out much thinner than BSI that is populary re-labeled .
I've tried BSI and it's way too thick for my liking.
If the cue needs to be spun for hours after applying, it's too thick for my liking.

I was going to hold this a secret but little guys like RAKA need all the support they can get to stay in business.
I don't see how West 207 can cost double the price.

Try it and you might just like it.
You're welcome.
Click to expand...

joey do i need a uv light for raka
sorry i know nothing on these products
MMike
 
mortuarymike-nv said:
joey do i need a uv light for raka
sorry i know nothing on these products
MMike
Click to expand...

No need for a UV light.
It air dries .
Ordinary light bulbs would be needed if it's really cold in your shop.
Here's a quote from a test.
Raka

A great feature of this epoxy is its very low viscosity and good wet-out. When the epoxy sets it is free from even the smallest bubbles and the coat is clear, shiny, and glossy as glass. Builders who prefer slower unrushed pace of construction will love it. I personally find it way too slow by itself but faster setting speed is possible by mixing in Raka 610 hardener. I haven't tried the faster curing combination, but I will certainly find out. All its properties and the second lowest price make it a likely candidate for my Kayaks.
http://www.oneoceankayaks.com/Epoxresl.htm
 
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JoeyInCali said:
Sinking, soaking and wicking, all same to me. :grin-square:
Try RAKA as basecoat. It's very thin.
Use no powder latex glove.
Click to expand...

I took this same advice about using gloves to apply epoxy and it cut the bubbles and imperfections way down!
 
opiesbro said:
I took this same advice about using gloves to apply epoxy and it cut the bubbles and imperfections way down!
Click to expand...

Al,

If you are getting bubbles something is wrong. Try warming up your epoxy to about 90 degrees before mixing and make sure the room and the cue is above 70. That should do it.

Bubbles must be eliminated or you get pock marks or craters when you sand, not good.

Rick
 
scdiveteam said:
Al,

If you are getting bubbles something is wrong. Try warming up your epoxy to about 90 degrees before mixing and make sure the room and the cue is above 70. That should do it.

Bubbles must be eliminated or you get pock marks or craters when you sand, not good.

Rick
Click to expand...

Foam brush + epoxy=bubbles.
 
Trent said:
When will you learn that your opinion in certain members posts on here are not appreciated? Joe and myselfs included along many many others.

Your a lying, wood stealing anoying waste of life who has no room to give advice to anyone as the advice you have was all ill gotten and most of the shit you post you've never even done yourself letalone ever figured out by yourself. Get the hint man people don't like you and don't want you around and especially joe and myself don't want your halfassed thieved opinions. No matter what name you use on here.
Click to expand...

Hi Trent,

You must be mistaking Tony with someone else I think. This Tony is one of the nicest guys who posts here and I know for a fact, he has many friends here who value his friendship and values.

I have had some runs ins and pissing matches with a few here and in the end when it is all said and done most of the pissing is usually about a misunderstanding via words that are misconstrued. I for one can be a hot head and have vowed not to ever piss up the rope again. Life is too short to waste our time.

Let's all get along and burry hatchets and be friends as cue makers, the world is watching.

Rick

We all do better when we get along and share information that is beneficial to everyone here.
 
scdiveteam said:
Al,

If you are getting bubbles something is wrong. Try warming up your epoxy to about 90 degrees before mixing and make sure the room and the cue is above 70. That should do it.

Bubbles must be eliminated or you get pock marks or craters when you sand, not good.

Rick
Click to expand...
You can also warm up your cue. You want to apply it as the cue is cooling down!!!
 
I've been using 20 minute epoxy as my sealer. I wipe it on wearing a nitrile glove, let it soak for a few, then wipe it all off it a white towel. Dry for a couple hours, sand, re-apply, wipe. Should I be wiping it all off? Jeez I think the cue would be a train wreck if I don't?

Bob, have you tried the DC3000? VERY fast cure time.
 
scdiveteam said:
Hi Trent,

You must be mistaking Tony with someone else I think. This Tony is one of the nicest guys who posts here and I know for a fact, he has many friends here who value his friendship and values.

I have had some runs ins and pissing matches with a few here and in the end when it is all said and done most of the pissing is usually about a misunderstanding via words that are misconstrued. I for one can be a hot head and have vowed not to ever piss up the rope again. Life is too short to waste our time.

Let's all get along and burry hatchets and be friends as cue makers, the world is watching.

Rick

We all do better when we get along and share information that is beneficial to everyone here.
Click to expand...
If I had to count how many times you were going to jump onto Lake Michigan....:D
 
scdiveteam said:
Hi Trent,

You must be mistaking Tony with someone else I think. This Tony is one of the nicest guys who posts here and I know for a fact, he has many friends here who value his friendship and values.

I have had some runs ins and pissing matches with a few here and in the end when it is all said and done most of the pissing is usually about a misunderstanding via words that are misconstrued. I for one can be a hot head and have vowed not to ever piss up the rope again. Life is too short to waste our time.

Let's all get along and burry hatchets and be friends as cue makers, the world is watching.

Rick

We all do better when we get along and share information that is beneficial to everyone here.
Click to expand...
I understand what you are saying Rick, but Trent is correct. I have met you, seen your cues, and if you give me advice, I'm inclined to take it. I'm impressed by your work and I enjoyed meeting you. But I have to pass on your advice here. My patience is gone with that guy and I've had enough of him acting superior to everyone on the forum.

Joe
 
snipershot said:
I understand what you are saying Rick, but Trent is correct. I have met you, seen your cues, and if you give me advice, I'm inclined to take it. I'm impressed by your work and I enjoyed meeting you. But I have to pass on your advice here. My patience is gone with that guy and I've had enough of him acting superior to everyone on the forum.

Joe
Click to expand...

Hey Joe,

I enjoyed meeting you too and am not trying to be Gladis Kravitz here. I guess what I am saying to Trent is if you don't like someone you are better off just not en-gauging.

Tony is not american and was born in Lisbon. What us americans might see as attitude can me just the way another culture sees as normal. I talk to Tony several times a week and have done many deals back and forth. He is a serious guy that want's to make his mark in the cue business. I truly believe he is doing just that.

Thanks,

Rick
 
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