4.5" pockets on a table

Table is nowhere near 5 inch holes.
You just like to slam people with your expertise.
I know people who are the best in the world at what they do who aren't arrogant bores like you.
You are pathological it's really pretty sad.
I went to school for 6 years to perform my job saving lives and helping people. So yeah if my table is good enough for me it's good enough.

The 8 ball is about 1/4" from the right side facing, 2 balls across is 4 1/2" that make it 4 3/4" right there, now move the balls out of the pocket so that they're lined up straight between the points of the pocket and freeze the 2 balls to the facings on both sides of the pocket, then take a look at the gap between the balls, you might learn something about my job, which has nothing to do with your paying job, and I've been doing this line of work for over 30 years;)
 
I have a hard time understanding why anyone would want a table with 4.5" pockets.

Tighter pockets will not make you a better pool player. If I play golf with professional grade equipment (tour blades for those in the know) it will not make me better at golf but it will sure as heck make the game tougher and less enjoyable.

I guess if a person plays top level pool and wants the added challenge of a smaller target I can understand it,,,, , but seriously, how many people play at that speed?

For the general masses, I say to heck with a more challenging table,, this game is tough enough with 5 inch pockets,, why make it more difficult?


Good point but I was simply "exploring the space."
 
The 8 ball is about 1/4" from the right side facing, 2 balls across is 4 1/2" that make it 4 3/4" right there, now move the balls out of the pocket so that they're lined up straight between the points of the pocket and freeze the 2 balls to the facings on both sides of the pocket, then take a look at the gap between the balls, you might learn something about my job, which has nothing to do with your paying job, and I've been doing this line of work for over 30 years;)
Well I never asked your opinion but I did ask 2 questions that you ignored.

So let's try again genius. Did that guy ever get his rails back? Did he get the money he paid you for the work you never did?
Maybe those answers don't jive with your egocentric view of the world where you single handedly save pool one table at a time.

I really don't know much but as I sit here in my house I know I give you the 7 out in life. That alone is comfort enough.
 
Thank god no one has ever called on you to save the life of a pool table:eek:

Now I did get a good chuckle out of this. That being said, he has a beautiful table and the work isn't butchery by any means, and your point about a simple re-rubber and new cloth compared to the hours of technical tuning (subrails extended, etc) is clear.

Takeitdown-congrats on your gold crown 2, it looks amazing. I'd swap rails in a second with my old busted ones with collapsing facings and dead spots galore. Good to go.
 
So what do you do to correct the pocket miter angles in your simple method of tightening the pockets, just copy the miter angles already made wrong?

Wrong's dying a$$ - did you miss the part about having someone who knows all
the requirements to get the right result? You know, some one like you.

Dale(who never attempts to put every fact he knows into a single post)
 
This is the equivalent to a steel toe boot to the nuts, splitting them right up the middle.

This guy is a punk.
Con man pure and simple been proven. Of course the thread is probably long gone but people remember Glen. You better be careful who you mess with. I am not gonna stand for you BS.
 
Maybe, but your pockets would still be crooked.

The balls go it like butter son. Nothing jaws so who really cares. Rails play perfect no short banks like those tables with the upside down rails.

Besides I don't want trailer trash parked in my yard for a week to do the job "right". Would be picking up Marlboro butts and bottle caps for years.
 
The balls go it like butter son. Nothing jaws so who really cares. Rails play perfect no short banks like those tables with the upside down rails.

Besides I don't want trailer trash parked in my yard for a week to do the job "right". Would be picking up Marlboro butts and bottle caps for years.

Don't get your panties in a bunch over the matter.

The man has truly shared more useful info with the AZB than possibly any other single contributor, ever...and there have been a lot over the years.
 
So I will show more of my ignorance here.... Where is the standard location on a pocket to take a measurement for how large they are?

For example, when I read that pros are shooting on 4.5 inch pockets,,, is that measured in the deepest part of the pocket or the outer edges of the rails?

Thanks in advance.
 
Don't get your panties in a bunch over the matter.

The man has truly shared more useful info with the AZB than possibly any other single contributor, ever...and there have been a lot over the years.

He's a miscreant and I ain't gonna take his crap. He better steer clear of me.

You hit a ball down the rail or from any location on the table the facings are good. If you maintain a 15 degree down angle on a table with a normal shelf it goes. Straight cut miter or slightly everted or mismatched miters of a few degrees mean jack. That only leaves the mouth of the pocket to determine difficulty in pocketing the ball. It's pool fellas not rocket science.
 
He's a miscreant and I ain't gonna take his crap. He better steer clear of me.

You hit a ball down the rail or from any location on the table the facings are good. If you maintain a 15 degree down angle on a table with a normal shelf it goes. Straight cut miter or slightly everted or mismatched miters of a few degrees mean jack. That only leaves the mouth of the pocket to determine difficulty in pocketing the ball. It's pool fellas not rocket science.

RKC makes me so mad:crying::crying::sad::sad:
 
He's a miscreant and I ain't gonna take his crap. He better steer clear of me.

You hit a ball down the rail or from any location on the table the facings are good. If you maintain a 15 degree down angle on a table with a normal shelf it goes. Straight cut miter or slightly everted or mismatched miters of a few degrees mean jack. That only leaves the mouth of the pocket to determine difficulty in pocketing the ball. It's pool fellas not rocket science.


This isn't the BBB.

If you have a problem, you'd be advised not to hijack any threads and not be a jerk yourself.

YOU have been warned now so knock it off.
 
Getting Back on Track...

Here's what this non table mechanic did to get my pockets to 4.5".

I bought a 9' AMF Grand Prix from a pool hall that was going out of business. This table is essentially a Gold Crown knock off. Anyway, I got a fair deal on it. I took it apart myself and a friend and I hauled it back to my house and lugged it down into the basement.

I didn't want to spend any more money on the table at the time but figured I would get the table setup up better in the future. So I put it back together myself. The only thing was I wanted the pockets tighter. So I thought I could put some new facings on them but I really didn't want to even recover the table at the time so I wondered if I could pull back the rail cloth and reface them.

I wasn't sure if that would work or not but I gave it a go and it worked out great and I think the pockets play just fine.

Sure at some point I would like to have the entire thing redone -- new cushions and all just putting new facings on the rails can be a possible alternative to spending the big bucks.
 

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Now that, don't look bad at all, and 4 1/2" for sure, with no cupping in at least that pocket you showed, so more than likely the same way in all the pockets, good job:thumbup:
 
Glen, does everyone here understand the significance of the various pocket characteristics?

I, for one, understand the significance of reducing a pocket opening from 5" to 4.5." What that means is that there will be a reduction in the amount of degree you will be able to cheat the pocket. That gives an advantage to the better shooter, who will be able to overcome that restriction by better cue ball positioning, thereby building in a better shot-angle to begin with.

But what about the other things you've discussed here?

What is the significance of precisely uniform pocket angles?

What is the significance of the down angle?

What is the significance of "cupping?"

I think many people get lost in the terminology that's used whenever the subject of pockets is brought up. Maybe more clear and simpler explanations would help?

Roger
 
Glen, does everyone here understand the significance of the various pocket characteristics?

I, for one, understand the significance of reducing a pocket opening from 5" to 4.5." What that means is that there will be a reduction in the amount of degree you will be able to cheat the pocket. That gives an advantage to the better shooter, who will be able to overcome that restriction by better cue ball positioning, thereby building in a better shot-angle to begin with.

But what about the other things you've discussed here?

What is the significance of precisely uniform pocket angles?

What is the significance of the down angle?

What is the significance of "cupping?"

I think many people get lost in the terminology that's used whenever the subject of pockets is brought up. Maybe more clear and simpler explanations would help?

Roger

I hear you Roger, when I get a break from working on these GC's today, I'll take the time 5 try and explain the geometry of pockets and their effects.

Glen
 
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