Well, knowing tip placement is only half the battle.
There's so much other stuff that goes into moving the cue ball where you want.
Like speed and how fat you hit the cut.
Here's a super common shot... low outside (in this case, low right) on a rail cut,
to get the cue ball back towards the shooter.
From the red-dot cue ball position, you need only a little low-right.
But you could also travel on the same line using just low, or just right.
One pro might prefer to use mostly draw and the other might prefer mostly side,
so it's not that useful to know the tip placement.
More than one tip placement can send the cue ball along that double line.
From "A" you're a little too thin on the ball. You'd use only a hair of low but a ton of right.
And unlike the previous example, that's pretty much the only way to go along the black line.
You can't do it with just draw because draw has little effect here - the cut is too thin.
Draw would work better on a full hit because the object ball kills most of the cue ball's
forward momentum, allowing the backspin to take over.
So on this thin cut, right sidespin does almost ALL the work.
But even if you hit the that maximum right sweet spot, the same spot a pro would,
you might not get the cue ball to spin up above the side pocket. Why? Because speed
and thickness of hit matter also. The spin takes better if you hit softly - the CB
spends more time grabbing the rail. And you also get better results with the fullest possible hit.
A pro who feels confident in his accuracy will not only try to make the shot but also cheat the pocket,
Instead of sending the 3 into the middle of the pocket, he'd try to hit full
and allow it to bobble in, off the rail (as shown in the blue line coming from the 3).
From "B" you're too full on the ball. When you hit the object ball, almost all of the energy that was
in the cue ball will be transferred to the object ball, and only a little bit will be left to move
the cue ball around. So you need to hit the cue ball at
warp speed to move it across the table.
Here, you can again use just side, or just draw, or a little of both.
But you would have to be careful to use only a little. If you hit full draw and warp speed,
the cue ball just sucks straight back towards where it started and then beyond.
Here too, you MUST cheat the pocket, this time along the red line, 'overcutting' the ball as much
as possible. This allows you keep more energy on the cue ball and less on the object ball.
Imagine what would happen if, instead of cutting the 3 along the red line, you cut along the blue line.
You'd basically be hitting the 3 right in the face. The cue ball wouldn't move sideways at all.
Even if you put tons of sidespin, it would just stop there and spin in place.
I know you were looking for an instructional book or video about the tip placement.
My recommendation: You can get the basics from the book "The 99 critical shots in pool".
Then for the more advanced stuff, get an instructor. Doesn't have to be a pro. The best player
at your local pool hall may be qualified (though be careful, some players don't understand
how or why certain things work, and may give bad advice).
An instructor will be able to explain to you why your results are different even if you hit the cue ball where he does.
("you're not hitting as low as you think you are" or "you need to hit softer or the spin won't grab", stuff like that).