Blue Diamond Chalk Wearing Out Ferrule???
- Thread starter ace911
- Start date
Son, do you remember a post I submitted not so very long ago that mentioned 'pigheadedness' as being detrimental to a forum? Well, here before us is a practical demonstration of that characteristic.
Give it a rest ace. All of these good people who responded to your question gave honest answers to the information you provided, and even though it was apparently not the responses you had wished for you should thank them for taking the good time and trouble to offer their opinions.
As to any harm that was suffered, I think little or none. In fact this thread has been quite entertaining.
Give it a rest ace. All of these good people who responded to your question gave honest answers to the information you provided, and even though it was apparently not the responses you had wished for you should thank them for taking the good time and trouble to offer their opinions.
As to any harm that was suffered, I think little or none. In fact this thread has been quite entertaining.
Last edited:
Ace911
When the cube of chalk gets worn into deep, take a file to the edges so that when you use it, the chalk does not rub against the middle of the ferrule.
When the chalk gets worn too deep for that, it is time to buy a new cube using your bet some earnings.
I may not be as great of a player as you are (in your own mind) but I at least know that.
BTW if you ever make it to my neck of the woods we can play some, I can at least teach you how to chalk your tip.
When the cube of chalk gets worn into deep, take a file to the edges so that when you use it, the chalk does not rub against the middle of the ferrule.
When the chalk gets worn too deep for that, it is time to buy a new cube using your bet some earnings.
I may not be as great of a player as you are (in your own mind) but I at least know that.
BTW if you ever make it to my neck of the woods we can play some, I can at least teach you how to chalk your tip.
Last edited:
Son, do you remember a post I submitted not so very long ago that mentioned 'pigheadedness' as being detrimental to a forum? Well, here before us is a practical demonstration of that charactaristic.
Give it a rest ace. All of these good people who responded to your question gave honest answers to the information you provided, and even though it was apparently not the responses you had wished for you should thank them for taking the good time and trouble to offer their opinions.
As to any harm that was suffered, I think little or none. In fact this thread has been quite entertaining.
You make a lot of sense when you get serious.
But i miss the Sunday funnies.
..you don't have to do it every week.....
...and it beats trying to explain to the cowboy what self-contradictions
are....
Was this was a clever way to get a money match?
Railbirds are those that are watching a pool match and not posters - do you mean lurkers and or trolls?
Not all railbirds are nits. Not all nits are railbirds.
Wipe the chalk onto the tip and do not drill the tip into the chalk.
Was this was a clever way to get a money match?
Railbirds are those that are watching a pool match and not posters - do you mean lurkers and or trolls?
Not all railbirds are nits. Not all nits are railbirds.
Wipe the chalk onto the tip and do not drill the tip into the chalk.
I like the blue D on my B/J cue it holds great ..
Well, according to what he has posted in the ATCM section...he has had the tip changed roughly 20 times (he plays a lot), and he likes a very rounded tip shape with little to no sidewall.
I like a rounded tip shape as well, and am no fan of a 'skyscraper' on the end of my cue...but you really need to leave some sort of a sidewall, if for no other reason than you are more likely to put small chips in the ferrule.
That aside...I have played with a very low tip (actually, just had it replaced), and even then, when chalking properly (a simple light swiping action), I have never gotten chalk on the ferrule....even when chalking the edges of the tip.
Just how much do you chalk? Part of the virtues of the Blue Diamond chalk is that it goes on and stays on. I have actually played several games without ever really needing to chalk. I do not make this a regular practice...just wanted to see how long it actually lasted. If chalking is part of your pre-shot routine, then a quick swipe or two should suffice. Anything more than that on every shot is just making a friggin' mess...chalk all over not only your tip, but the CB and the cloth, not to mention your shaft.
As a side note...when you come to a forum, or anywhere else for that matter, and ask a question and receive answers from various members that are pretty much all telling you the same thing...you might want to consider that they actually know what they're talking about, and take it as good advice, even if it wasn't what you wanted to hear. Just because you play well, doesn't mean that you know how to properly maintain your equipment. You're not going to win any friends over here when you insult the very people you apparently had enough respect of to ask this question.
Upon reading further into the ATCM thread you started...you might want to find a new cue repairman, as it seems to me you have had a improper tip install somewhere down the line. I am just not buying that a ferrule starting out at 12.5mm, and ending up at 11.6mm at the tip end of the ferrule, and 12.2mm at the bottom end of the ferrule is due exclusively to chalk wear. And if the shaft is flush to the ferrule, then some one has taken the shaft down as well...at least at the ferrule end of it. A proper ferrule will not have chalk lines in the middle, and a taper (unless you specifically requested it that way).
Lisa
I like a rounded tip shape as well, and am no fan of a 'skyscraper' on the end of my cue...but you really need to leave some sort of a sidewall, if for no other reason than you are more likely to put small chips in the ferrule.
That aside...I have played with a very low tip (actually, just had it replaced), and even then, when chalking properly (a simple light swiping action), I have never gotten chalk on the ferrule....even when chalking the edges of the tip.
Just how much do you chalk? Part of the virtues of the Blue Diamond chalk is that it goes on and stays on. I have actually played several games without ever really needing to chalk. I do not make this a regular practice...just wanted to see how long it actually lasted. If chalking is part of your pre-shot routine, then a quick swipe or two should suffice. Anything more than that on every shot is just making a friggin' mess...chalk all over not only your tip, but the CB and the cloth, not to mention your shaft.
As a side note...when you come to a forum, or anywhere else for that matter, and ask a question and receive answers from various members that are pretty much all telling you the same thing...you might want to consider that they actually know what they're talking about, and take it as good advice, even if it wasn't what you wanted to hear. Just because you play well, doesn't mean that you know how to properly maintain your equipment. You're not going to win any friends over here when you insult the very people you apparently had enough respect of to ask this question.
Upon reading further into the ATCM thread you started...you might want to find a new cue repairman, as it seems to me you have had a improper tip install somewhere down the line. I am just not buying that a ferrule starting out at 12.5mm, and ending up at 11.6mm at the tip end of the ferrule, and 12.2mm at the bottom end of the ferrule is due exclusively to chalk wear. And if the shaft is flush to the ferrule, then some one has taken the shaft down as well...at least at the ferrule end of it. A proper ferrule will not have chalk lines in the middle, and a taper (unless you specifically requested it that way).
Lisa
Last edited:
As someone mentioned, that even if he wants to get the most value from a piece of BD, you can still do that without deep well drilling as Lisa said.
My chalk is pretty much flat with the exception of lines that go from corner to corner. When the lines get too deep, I change the way I scuff the chalk
to even it up.
I use a chalk holder and when the chalk goes below the lip of the holder, I cram a bit of paper towel in it to jack it up.
After that, I replace it and leave the piece on a table for someone else to find. Even at $3 a cube, you still get months of play from one piece.
My chalk is pretty much flat with the exception of lines that go from corner to corner. When the lines get too deep, I change the way I scuff the chalk
to even it up.
I use a chalk holder and when the chalk goes below the lip of the holder, I cram a bit of paper towel in it to jack it up.
After that, I replace it and leave the piece on a table for someone else to find. Even at $3 a cube, you still get months of play from one piece.
Blue Hog...instead of using a bit o' paper towel to raise the chalk back up, I use quarters...that way if I am out at a tavern playing, I always have some for "just one more game"....LoL!
Lisa
Okay all you holier than thous, I know the chalk is supposed to go on the tip and not the ferrule and I chalk carefully, most of the time. I still get some chalk on the ferrule, not to the point where it causes wear, but some. Let he/she among you who has never had any chalk on her/his ferrule cast the first rock.
Dave Nelson
Dave Nelson
If you are serious - and I guess you may not be
1. hold cue straight up with bumper on the floor for stability
( this also makes sure you don't chalk over the bed of the table,
a sin beyond redemption which, IMHO, should be a hanging offence).
2. tilt cue 30 degrees.
3. apply chalk in your normal manner
I defy you to get chalk on anything but the tip using this method.
Well, maybe some on the floor...
Dale(wholier than thyne)
Thats a heck of a good idea Lisa. Thanks.
As an observer of people for a long time there are those that get very defensive when they don't get the answer they are looking for.
Also it is a common ploy to change the subject when you have lost or are losing an argument.
I can assure the poster that all the answers on how to chalk a tip are correct and will in no way damage any part of your cue.
I think the best answer here was if people call you a horse more then once you should look for a saddle.
Also it is a common ploy to change the subject when you have lost or are losing an argument.
I can assure the poster that all the answers on how to chalk a tip are correct and will in no way damage any part of your cue.
I think the best answer here was if people call you a horse more then once you should look for a saddle.
I'll be honest... I'm a chalk pig. I get chalk everywhere. My left hand looks as if it has been dipped in chalk after a lengthy amount of play - and that's after frequent hand washings. I chalk with the wiping motion as everyone says is correct - after every shot - but chalk seems to attack my left hand anyway. As a consequence, I get chalk on my ferrule, chalk on my shaft, and I've occasionally chalked my face. Chalk is particularly attracted to the areas between my ring finger and middle finger (beats me!).
Sometimes I catch myself chalking my tip the incorrect way and it simply breaks my heart. :grin: This usually happens if my opponent is making a long run and I'm watching his play too closely. My left hand somehow gets a piece of chalk in it and does the entire operation without my consent. My right hand isn't involved in this at all, whew!
The heck of it is, I don't even care. I've never had a ferrule worn down as a result of chalk (and have used/sometimes do use Blue Diamond). I wipe down my shaft and ferrule occasionally and just keep washing the rest. A magic eraser pretty much takes care of what is left on the cue so that gets used every once in awhile.
Sometimes I catch myself chalking my tip the incorrect way and it simply breaks my heart. :grin: This usually happens if my opponent is making a long run and I'm watching his play too closely. My left hand somehow gets a piece of chalk in it and does the entire operation without my consent. My right hand isn't involved in this at all, whew!
The heck of it is, I don't even care. I've never had a ferrule worn down as a result of chalk (and have used/sometimes do use Blue Diamond). I wipe down my shaft and ferrule occasionally and just keep washing the rest. A magic eraser pretty much takes care of what is left on the cue so that gets used every once in awhile.
chalky
I believe this situation is a product of using drilled out chalk, using
a twisting motion, and shoddy tip installations.
The chalking of your cue in this fashion will give your ferrule an hourglass shape.
Is Blue Diamond going to wear your ferrule out faster?
I don't think anyone has done a study.
I do think that you should try wiping the chalk from Center To Edge.
Start with a new piece and try to knock that little crater wall down immediately.
Also, find a different repairman.
No offense intended.
I believe this situation is a product of using drilled out chalk, using
a twisting motion, and shoddy tip installations.
The chalking of your cue in this fashion will give your ferrule an hourglass shape.
Is Blue Diamond going to wear your ferrule out faster?
I don't think anyone has done a study.
I do think that you should try wiping the chalk from Center To Edge.
Start with a new piece and try to knock that little crater wall down immediately.
Also, find a different repairman.
No offense intended.
i think alot is going on here. if the user dammages the ferrule with deep dish chalks by just drilling his tip in there what is the repair guy gonna do.
if it was me i would ask if he wants a new ferrule. then tell him if he declines that i have to take the ferrule down to get the damage out and make it look good. therefore the ferrule will decrease in size from the where it starts to being much smaller at the tip. thats all that can be done and that is what it sounds like happened here. savy?
if it was me i would ask if he wants a new ferrule. then tell him if he declines that i have to take the ferrule down to get the damage out and make it look good. therefore the ferrule will decrease in size from the where it starts to being much smaller at the tip. thats all that can be done and that is what it sounds like happened here. savy?
Agreed. As long as "your normal manner" consists of swiping the chalk across the tip, like a broom on a floor, then you'll be fine. Always move the chalk over the cue tip, rather than moving the cue into the chalk.
True enough 9Ball - all us smart guys know how to chalk right,
But if you look closely, you might notice this post was in response
to Dave Nelson, who claims that even tho he 'chalks carefully',
he still sometimes gets chalk on his ferrule.
My description was intended to solve his problem - not Ace - not anyone
else.
Dale(there may be dust on some of you bust<eds>, but there ain't
no dust on me)
Statements from Blue Diamond.
What benefits can a billiard player expect from using Blue Diamond chalk?
You can expect greater security in knowing that your cue tip is chalked with the best chalk in the world. Using blue diamond chalk will increase your score overall by allowing you to hone your stroke to perfect ball positioning.
Blue diamond chalk will stain your shaft and ferrule less than other chalks, and even more importantly it does not turn to powder as quickly as other chalks, so your chalk cuebe will last longer
Cory Harper's hands using Masters Red Chalk. It got on the hands , ferrule, shaft and even on the tip.
What benefits can a billiard player expect from using Blue Diamond chalk?
You can expect greater security in knowing that your cue tip is chalked with the best chalk in the world. Using blue diamond chalk will increase your score overall by allowing you to hone your stroke to perfect ball positioning.
Blue diamond chalk will stain your shaft and ferrule less than other chalks, and even more importantly it does not turn to powder as quickly as other chalks, so your chalk cuebe will last longer
Cory Harper's hands using Masters Red Chalk. It got on the hands , ferrule, shaft and even on the tip.