Cue straightness - what is important?

HaroldWilson

HaroldWilson

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Hello,

I have been reading all manner of articles on how to test a cues straightness including rolling on the table (which is of course is not effective on an untrue table) to sighting down the cue.

I have rolled snooker cues on marble tabletops (which have a dead flush surface) and can see no light under the shaft or butt which is most likely due the the specific type of taper starting from thick and then gradually evenly thinning down towards the tip. However, I have never rolled a pool cue shaft with a traditional taper which doesn't shed any light at some stage along the taper. (including Tascarella, Black Boar, Tad, 314 shafts etc)

Now I have read about taper rolls etc, however to me the design of a pool cue taper can only (by design) be uneven slightly in parts between the base and the ferrule when rolled?

Thus, what is important to test the cues straightness - is it the ferrule and the base of the shaft rolling flush together? Or am I on the wrong track completely and have never rolled a true shaft?

I have scanned YouTube etc and have yet to see a shaft which doesn't show any light when rolled on an even surface..


Any comments would be appreciated,
 
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HaroldWilson said:
Hello,

I have been reading all manner of articles on how to test a cues straightness including rolling on the table (which is of course is not effective on an untrue table) to sighting down the cue.

I have rolled snooker cues on marble tabletops (which have a dead flush surface) and can see no light under the shaft or butt which is most likely due the the specific type of taper starting from thick and then gradually evenly thinning down towards the tip. However, I have never rolled a pool cue shaft with a traditional taper which doesn't shed any light at some stage along the taper. (including Tascarella, Black Boar, Tad, 314 shafts etc)

Now I have read about taper rolls etc, however to me the design of a pool cue taper can only (by design) be uneven slightly in parts between the base and the ferrule when rolled?

Thus, what is important to test the cues straightness - is it the ferrule and the base of the shaft rolling flush together? Or am I on the wrong track completely and have never rolled a true shaft?

I have scanned YouTube etc and have yet to see a shaft which doesn't show any light when rolled on an even surface..


Any comments would be appreciated,
Click to expand...

HaroldWilson:

I would have to say that of all parts of the cue that would have a "need" to be straight, would be the shaft. In your normal shooting stance, down on the shot, and ready to pull the trigger, the only part of the cue you're sighting down is the shaft. Here, a significant lack of straightness can be noticeable, since you're sighting down the shaft. (You're actually sighting over the shaft, since your face acts as a spacer between your eyes and the shaft. It's not like a rifle where face is resting against a cheekrest below the barrel, and your eye is TRULY sighting down the top of the barrel to line-up two sights.)

If the butt is not straight, it really is of no significance other than you "knowing" it's not straight (i.e. aesthetics issues), because your arm is swinging it "back there" behind you. You're not looking down the butt.

I've a couple cues with not-so-straight butts, that feel really great in the grip-hand, that when paired up with a straight shaft, make a really fine player cue.

When looking at a cue purchase, while I *will* roll a cue on a known-flat table -- or at least prop it up by the forearm on the rail (buttcap resting on the table surface) and roll it along the rail -- to me, the butt being straight is secondary to a well-mating joint, straight shaft, general playability of the whole cue, and who makes it. I mean, if it's a couple-thousand dollar custom, *of course* I'll demand that everything (including the butt) be straight, no sugarmarks, etc. But an inexpensive "beater" playing cue? I'll relax on the requirements that the butt be straight.

The shaft is the only thing I won't take a concession on being straight. I look/sight down the thing, and if I can see it's not straight, it indeed bothers me -- on the spot.

That's my $0.02.
-Sean
 
HaroldWilson said:
Hello,

I have been reading all manner of articles on how to test a cues straightness including rolling on the table (which is of course is not effective on an untrue table) to sighting down the cue.

I have rolled snooker cues on marble tabletops (which have a dead flush surface) and can see no light under the shaft or butt which is most likely due the the specific type of taper starting from thick and then gradually evenly thinning down towards the tip. However, I have never rolled a pool cue shaft with a traditional taper which doesn't shed any light at some stage along the taper. (including Tascarella, Black Boar, Tad, 314 shafts etc)

Now I have read about taper rolls etc, however to me the design of a pool cue taper can only (by design) be uneven slightly in parts between the base and the ferrule when rolled?

Thus, what is important to test the cues straightness - is it the ferrule and the base of the shaft rolling flush together? Or am I on the wrong track completely and have never rolled a true shaft?

I have scanned YouTube etc and have yet to see a shaft which doesn't show any light when rolled on an even surface..


Any comments would be appreciated,
Click to expand...

The only way to test for straightness is to chuck it up in a lathe and measure the run out throughout the length. Even then there is a compromise as it's occasionally difficult to find or use the centers used during the construction of the cue. However, 'straightness' can still be evaluated to a degree greater than necessary to satisfy the question.

Taper roll...there is no such thing. Either the wood is straight relative to it's centers or it is not. If it "Taper" rolls, it's bent in any case other than if it is no longer truly round, that is a different scenario. However the effective result or impression is no different.

In regards to how much to matters...

There is no evidence to show that it matters in any practical way, shape or form other than buyer/seller perception and impact on value. In such case, it either matters a little or a lot depending on 'you' the buyer but I'd venture to say all things being equal, virtually everyone would prefer a cue to be as straight and practically possible and each degree away from that would affect value in some way.

IMO.
 
I don't think there is a definitive way into measuring the straightness of a cue. Most cues' taper curves.

I prefer it that way because I have played with cues that have less of this "taper curve", a Pechauer comes to mind with their thick shafts.
 
Are you talking in terms of sell-ability, or playability?

As far as playability... if it looks good rolling on an even surface, don't worry about it.
Any microscopic bend that doesn't show up using that test, isn't worth sweating.
Roll on 2 different tables if you wanna be paranoid about uneven slate masking a warp.

You'd be shocked if you watch a front-view camera of a typical player's stroke how
completely wobbly and wavery most strokes are. How rarely we hit the intended spot on the cue ball.
In some cases the entire cue is swinging at a slight angle relative to the line of the shot.

Our everyday stroke wobbles will cause 100x more misses than any cue that rolls straight on the table.
If you miss it wasn't some subtle invisible warp.
 
Here's a video of me testing the straightness of my SW cue.

This one is dead perfect with one of the shaft and has a slight taper roll with the other shaft.

Taper roll is really saying the shaft roll flat on the table with minor light variances.
Essentially saying the shaft is good and it not warp or unplayable.
The degree and interpretation of straightness really depends on the player/buyer..some are very anal about it like me before but I've learned wood is wood..they move with changes to moisture constantly expanding and contracting.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XwAWr-yU-ls
 
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If the tip does not leave the table when its rolled together I feel okay with it. If the tip does leave the table I check to see if they roll good apart, if both roll good apart but not together then the joint needs to be refaced usually.
 
HaroldWilson said:
Hello,

I have been reading all manner of articles on how to test a cues straightness including rolling on the table (which is of course is not effective on an untrue table) to sighting down the cue.

I have rolled snooker cues on marble tabletops (which have a dead flush surface) and can see no light under the shaft or butt which is most likely due the the specific type of taper starting from thick and then gradually evenly thinning down towards the tip. However, I have never rolled a pool cue shaft with a traditional taper which doesn't shed any light at some stage along the taper. (including Tascarella, Black Boar, Tad, 314 shafts etc)

Now I have read about taper rolls etc, however to me the design of a pool cue taper can only (by design) be uneven slightly in parts between the base and the ferrule when rolled?

Thus, what is important to test the cues straightness - is it the ferrule and the base of the shaft rolling flush together? Or am I on the wrong track completely and have never rolled a true shaft?

I have scanned YouTube etc and have yet to see a shaft which doesn't show any light when rolled on an even surface..


Any comments would be appreciated,
Click to expand...

It does not matter if there is light under the shaft, but the gap that shows has to be even, and the tip and joint area not wobble around when rolled.
 
Why is that

dom_poppa said:
I don't think there is a definitive way into measuring the straightness of a cue. Most cues' taper curves.

I prefer it that way because I have played with cues that have less of this "taper curve", a Pechauer comes to mind with their thick shafts.
Click to expand...



Your statement is so far off ,Do you have any idea what you are talking about.


Without reinventing the wheel, there are several ways to see and measure if a cue is warped. Rolling each half on a pool table is a good start. then screw the cue together and roll it. Measure how much the cue warped with your drivers lic Your credit card,
Match books . even a money can be used as a measuring instrument

I can tell how much a cue has warped with a deck of playing cards or a pack of rolling papers.
Back in the day when car engines used points everyone used all kinds of tricks to set the points / dwell with rolling papers match books. drivers lic. anything that could be made that was about .040 of a inch. It was normal to have pop the hood every once in a while to set the points.

This is so stupid, You don't need to know how much a cue is warped.
Wood moves ....... It becomes a problem when it becomes noticeable,

If the cue plays fine don't worry about it. If it bothers you replace it.

MMike
 
the straightness of a cue

i don't think a cue with a very slight curve really makes any difference in playing. i have bounced around in bars for the last 45 years playing pool and there was a time in some bars you brought in a cue you would get no game, so most of the time i played off the rack. and try to find a straight bar stick, hell in some places you were lucky to get a cue with a tip !!!!!

i really think the only time it makes any difference is when they are being bought or sold
 
hang-the-9 said:
It does not matter if there is light under the shaft, but the gap that shows has to be even, and the tip and joint area not wobble around when rolled.
Click to expand...

Thanks that is where I am at at the moment. It is the light underneath that I was worried about the most as the tip and joint area roll flush also I am weighing up whether to sell the cue as another one that I like has come up. Thus, I don't want the buyer to be disappointed or have other ideas.

Thanks
 
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I was watching the Hustler the other night, yes again, and the scene when he beats the kid at nine ball and just when he throws the cue on the table before the kid throws the money on the table, if you watch closely you can see the enormous curve in the cue, its amusing.
Just a tidbit, lol.
 
I think MORE people should read this . I just sold a Older Coker , to a AZer on the east coast . He claims the cue is crooked . The cue rolled very good and very shootable for a Older cue on my table . Cue was listed as a " older" cue nothing was said .

The guy I got the cue in a trade from Swears the cue is straight also .

copy of Thread .

Nice older Coker , with 2 shaft . Really nice b-eye . With existing weight bolt ,19.6 or 19.7 oz. depending on which shaft . $ Sold pending payment . shipped Conus . Other shipping available at actual cost . Thanks Jim

19.0 with no weight bolt . Shafts 12.75 and 3.7 oz. #2 12.95 and 3.8 oz . butt 15.1 with no bolt .

When I receive something that I might be not 100% satisfied with I just relist it and resell it . Where does everyone think , that when they buy something for ANY reason they are entitled to a refund ??? Makes me think there wife found out and they are trying to save there ASS .
 
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Straight

If the tip does not lift and the joint is right the cue is in playable shape. A shaft will have light show though when rolled as long as it stays consistent. JMO
 
If you are going to buy and sell cues, you should be competent enough at checking straightness to determine if the cue is warped, and if so, where and to what extent.
 
I buy New Preditor blank shafts that show light in the middle of the shafts . I have a shooter I use that it depends on the day , humidity or what ever , never the same , I know it shoot good so I quit checking it . I think there are to many people using this as a excuse to return a cue . If its shootable , shoot with it .
 
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