And what did you do about the corner pockets spitting the balls back out onto the playing surface? What about the cue ball not rolling straight...or playing right?...because that hasn't changed one bit...not in the last 30+ years
Glen
If Diamond tables didn't bank short...
- Thread starter realkingcobra
- Start date
And what did you do about the corner pockets spitting the balls back out onto the playing surface? What about the cue ball not rolling straight...or playing right?...because that hasn't changed one bit...not in the last 30+ years
Glen
What is the new price for valleys
I find it hard to believe that the new valley is that much cheaper than the Diamond. Pool tables in a good location pay themselves off in a year or less. The advantage of the diamond will be much clearer in 5 years when the valleys are starting to show their age. It seems like the smartest investment is the Diamonds with the Diamond Light Kits and ball polisher. What is the new price point of the valleys?
I find it hard to believe that the new valley is that much cheaper than the Diamond. Pool tables in a good location pay themselves off in a year or less. The advantage of the diamond will be much clearer in 5 years when the valleys are starting to show their age. It seems like the smartest investment is the Diamonds with the Diamond Light Kits and ball polisher. What is the new price point of the valleys?
They used too
No
and Kinnda
hows that for a answer.Sorry best I got.THey used to make a coin opp 9ft but I havent seen them in years.The ones I played on used the big ball.
weve got 4 diamonds and 2 valleys. The diamonds r nice but other than the hype for the money in a bar or poolroom save the $s and buy valleys.^ bar tables 10 diamond professionals and 10 GC4s and the valleys still get played the most by the kids and bangers.With the new 5 bolt rail the valleys r really stepping up to the compatition.Until Diamond Valley had no comp. in the bar buisness.
And what did you do about the corner pockets spitting the balls back out onto the playing surface? What about the cue ball not rolling straight...or playing right?...because that hasn't changed one bit...not in the last 30+ years
Glen
I've heard from more than one person that this is a huge issue with the new Valleys.
I played on a 9' Diamond in Nashville that had very light colored rails, and white diamond sights. There was very little contrast, and the diamonds (for banking) were practically invisible. If the rails are light, the sights need to be dark, and vice-versa.
The same table was set up very low. If there is a default for table height, it should be at the upper limit of regulation.
I don't have any complaints about how they play.
The same table was set up very low. If there is a default for table height, it should be at the upper limit of regulation.
I don't have any complaints about how they play.
Why make this post ?
Guy,
Can you really tell me that you endorse the table as a player as well as a BangerHugging bar owner. This thread is for players and not penny pinchers who can't run out on a diamond table. Enjoy cleaning the beer and puke off those new valleys.:thumbup:
Guy,
Can you really tell me that you endorse the table as a player as well as a BangerHugging bar owner. This thread is for players and not penny pinchers who can't run out on a diamond table. Enjoy cleaning the beer and puke off those new valleys.:thumbup:
To say that was harsh would be like calling Hurricane Katrina a thunderstorm.
I don't mean to rain on your parade, but if you go back and re-read my original post...I think you'll have a better understanding about what this thread is about. If you'd like to start a thread about the differences between Diamond & Valley bar tables we could do that....but here's a little something to think about first...when it comes to Valley tables. Valley didn't really have an issue with using only 3 rail bolts per rail to attach their rail blocks....so, going to 5 rail bolts per rail...still don't change the fact that the cushions are bolted to the rail caps, which are mounted to the side panels of the box of the table...and that the side panels are in-fact held together with the pocket castings by 2 bolts...when they come loose...and they WILL come loose...it really don't matter if you have 100 rail bolts holding that cushion to the rail cap....the entire side panel will move....and absorb the hit on the cushion on the end rails...like the rails are dead. I could go on and tear Valley a new...a$$$$...but what's the point...in THIS thread?
So...if you want to start a new thread....start one...but please be informed about the Valley table first...and how it's really designed....as I've worked on over 1,000 Valleys and just about every coin-operated pool table ever built....every year...for over 328 bars in Washington State....for almost 20 years....before I got involved consulting Diamond....with their line of pool tables
Glen
I don't mean to rain on your parade, but if you go back and re-read my original post...I think you'll have a better understanding about what this thread is about. If you'd like to start a thread about the differences between Diamond & Valley bar tables we could do that....but here's a little something to think about first...when it comes to Valley tables. Valley didn't really have an issue with using only 3 rail bolts per rail to attach their rail blocks....so, going to 5 rail bolts per rail...still don't change the fact that the cushions are bolted to the rail caps, which are mounted to the side panels of the box of the table...and that the side panels are in-fact held together with the pocket castings by 2 bolts...when they come loose...and they WILL come loose...it really don't matter if you have 100 rail bolts holding that cushion to the rail cap....the entire side panel will move....and absorb the hit on the cushion on the end rails...like the rails are dead. I could go on and tear Valley a new...a$$$$...but what's the point...in THIS thread?
So...if you want to start a new thread....start one...but please be informed about the Valley table first...and how it's really designed....as I've worked on over 1,000 Valleys and just about every coin-operated pool table ever built....every year...for over 328 bars in Washington State....for almost 20 years....before I got involved consulting Diamond....with their line of pool tables
Glen
(Stands and begins a slow clap)
Hey Glen ...
I love my Diamond and would buy it again - but since you asked what I would add or change:
- a couple hooks or something to put the damn bridge on
- a slot or something where you can put balls (for one pocket keeping score)
- some kind of lining for both where the rack goes and where the balls collect (right now I have put down lining like you put in your bathroom drawers).
I really appreciate the fact that Diamond just doesnt kick back and rest on its success - but is constantly trying to improve their product. Thanks Glen for your intiative!
Chris
I love my Diamond and would buy it again - but since you asked what I would add or change:
- a couple hooks or something to put the damn bridge on
- a slot or something where you can put balls (for one pocket keeping score)
- some kind of lining for both where the rack goes and where the balls collect (right now I have put down lining like you put in your bathroom drawers).
I really appreciate the fact that Diamond just doesnt kick back and rest on its success - but is constantly trying to improve their product. Thanks Glen for your intiative!
Chris
Just last night I was playing at my home bar. We play on a Valley 8'. Actually...I think it is a Dynamo, maybe like 8-10 years old, all black. It isn't really all that bad. However, after our match I was just shooting around and rifled a ball into one of the corner pockets. It definitely hit the bottom of the pocket and came right back out. It was pretty funny at the time, but I would be *unamused* if this happened in a real match. To be fair, I totally SMASHED the ball...
KMRUNOUT
psssst...Diamond does sell a wire bridge holder...as well as wire tray to put the balls in for playing one pocket
as far as lining for the rack area...I'd think it would be easier to line the bottom and edge of the rack with some Simonis cloth...than it would be to line the insert where it goes
RKC do you have an answer to an earlier reply about mimicking the Centennial tables? Do you know if there are rights or patents on the design? I think a lot of people would argue that those tables are eye candy vs. eyesore....
-Mike
-Mike
I've only played on the Diamond's at Sal Butera's in Moorpark. I don't know if all Diamond pockets are cut the same, but those wouldn't hold a ball fired down the rail hard. (I haven't been there since you worked on the tables).
So, I would like to see more receptive pocket cut, or a little shallower shelf, and about 1/4" tighter.
Otherwise, I liked the way they played. it's a nice, solid table. The cushions, the speed, everything was just right. I just thought the tables played a little too easy.
Chris
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psssst...Diamond does sell a wire bridge holder...as well as wire tray to put the balls in for playing one pocket
I know, i have one! You put it in! The problem is, when you play me some one pocket the holder isnt big enough to fit all the balls. With the spot i need:thumbup:
Attachments
Valley
Yes i really endorse Valley pool tables as a player and a poolhall owner, And as far as a penny pincher i own one of the largest poolhall in the country. When u own as many tables as i do u would understand. And yes i dont mind cleaning tables weither its a diamond or a valley. And as for the statement of players that cant run out on diamond u have a open invitation to come down anytime u want.
Yes i really endorse Valley pool tables as a player and a poolhall owner, And as far as a penny pincher i own one of the largest poolhall in the country. When u own as many tables as i do u would understand. And yes i dont mind cleaning tables weither its a diamond or a valley. And as for the statement of players that cant run out on diamond u have a open invitation to come down anytime u want.
You entirely missed the point of his message, not to mention the fact that I'm fairly sure he was just teasing you.
In any case, the original poster is not asking you what brand of table you prefer. The whole point of the thread is to address any existing issues with current Diamonds, as well as make requests regarding upgrades to future Diamonds.
Valley tables are great for the price, and are suitable for most players. But we aren't addressing 'most players' here. This is a thread that caters to the pickiest table owners, who seek the best *Diamond* table possible. Any mention of cost should be irrelevant.
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Mike...yes Diamond could reproduce the Brunswick Centennial table, but the bigger question is why? The cost of changing the rail moulder heads wouldn't be cheap I can assure you of that, besides that...do you remember how much aluminum is in that table? THAT is a lot of cost at todays prices. As far as any patents today on that table, they all expired 17 years after they were first filed, so there's nothing stopping any one from reproducing the Centennial all over again...except that particular table actually represented 100 years in business to Brunswick...so, if anyone is ever going to reproduce that table....I'd feel better if Brunswick was the one to reintroduce it to the market...as anyone else would be accused of "copying" one of Brunswick's best ever looking modern era pool tables...and I just don't think that would sit well with many customers.
So, that's my take on your question.
Glen