J
I will, respectfully ask, Doesn't that possibly compromise the facing? As this tool can cant to a side, even slightly, say .001" which may cause a variance in the facing which over 29" may accumulate to more than one would think. A joint pin with the threads removed, in a stepped minor hole as you have described, may have a bit of play as there isn't any thing 'holding' the joint tight as you spin the tool, plus if the hole was done to the exact construction details mentioned earlier, I.E. stepped minor, there will be the ability for movement at the joint end, and removing the threads and sanding/polishing the pin a bit (to reduce any rough edges) will reduce it to a smidge below the minor of the hole....especially right at the joint due to the stepped minor will be wider at the joint facing than the bottom of the hole. Considering when applying finish it may have an uneven build-up on the facing edge, as you spray, or brush on as I do, the amount on the joint facing may vary around the actual dia. of it. I'm not knocking your tool, just surprised as I was really hoping your answer was more inline with your other ISO9000 type procedures. Facing of a shaft and butt are THE most important 'finishing' items IMO as that will really dictate how the final roll will go. After all the careful precision work leading up to this, I personally use a lathe to re-face the joint on both sides, and it eliminates any slop at this stage of it, IMO.
Dave
Hi Dave,
I took 2 videos today with my phone demonstrating the results of my method concerning concentricity. I showed you a pic and description of my face clean up simple tool. This was this cue's first roll test and I had just cleaned up any over spray with the tool.
Rolling a cue on the rail is the ultimate test of a cues concentric quality when joined. IMO. Rolling the cue on the flat surface is a method to check a cue's geometry but not as revealing to all concentric errors. A cue with a roll exerts leverage pressure on the shaft and on some geometries you can have a shaft with a roll that the ferrule does not bob up on the end. That's why I check on the rail, on the table and the shaft and butt not joined on the table.
A joined cue that is totally concentric is dictated by the attributes that are all independent factors and concentric harmony will prevail if all attributes are correct. Attributes that are slightly in error can work to balance out a problem and ones that are conflicting can amplify the total testing of the cue's concentricity. A very tricky business.
The attributes that effect concentricity are:
Flatness of the faces and also cleanliness of the faces
Perpendicularity of the faces to the inner threads of the joint and x centerline of the entire cue when joined
TRO of the pin and butt joint
Concentricity of the taper contour to the X centerline and parallelity of the threads to the centerline.
The two videos shown below is the outcome I observe with repeatability. This cue was sprayed the other day and has not been wet sanded or buffed yet. I had just removed the pin devices that were installed at .910 prior to the tapering to final using the concentricity device system.
Before these roll tests, I used the face tool with 220 to clean up any slight overspray that may have been present during the clear coat application.
A few here have implied that my concentricity device pin and method is somehow flawed and I am somehow missing something or are incompetent. Forgive me for my disagreement with all the conjecture pointed towards me but i take solace in my results and hope I have opened a mind or two. I truly get this type of quality of concentricity viewing my joined cues on a consistent and repeatable basis and openly invite anyone who wishes to visit my shop the next time your near the Windy City. I wonder how many of people who chastised my described method can pass the roll on the rail smell test on every cue that leaves their shop. Every Cue! That would be an interesting statistic to chart me thinks. LOL
That said, I also applaud anyone else who gets the same results using any other method. As I said before this cue making thing should always about raising the bar of expectation. If you expect cues to pass the rail roll test, there is some midnite oil to burn.
To those who build cues or buy cues, check your cues on the rail or see what's in your case concerning concentricity.
Also, Thanks Dave for the respectful questioning attitude and my response to you is given in the spirit of mutual peer respect.
Good Cue Making,
Rick
Click on pics below to view video. (May not work on all cell phones)
Here is Mike's new ebony plain jane cue being rolled on the rail. As you can see the joint remains consistent concerning up and down movement when observed on an elevation view. If any of the attributes I mentioned are off this is where they will rear their ugly head. LOL ( my friend, Illinois cue maker Vern Kiplinger seen here rolling the cue for me )
I inspect all cues i view to this standard and it is surprising how many cues ( large percentage ) I see at shows and pool halls that do not pass this test and bob up and down at the joint showing an imbalance of the cue's total overall harmony concerning the individual attributes. Many of these cues will pass a lesser standard of just rolling them on the table without the ferrule bobbing but can also still have a taper roll.
Here is the same cue rolling on the table: