Q-wiz Shaft Cleaner Users

[JimS]

I think the abrasive side is the same as 800 grit sandpaper.

Smooth the shaft with 1500 and then use leather. The 1500 is so fine that it will take dirt off but virtually no wood. Just a couple swipes and then use the leather.

I like the Q Wiz but it's just too abrasive for me. I only use 800 when it's really necessary... like for a scratch in the wood.

 

[Tak81]

I used to use that Q-wiz like after each pool session, for maybe the first few days. Then I realized that it was overkill, and I find myself using the burnishing side of the Q-wiz a lot more often, and the abrasive side rarely. The burnishing side does a great job of keeping it smooth, and I only use the abrasive side when it really feels like there's something stuck on there.

 

[Maniac]

Smooth the shaft with 1500 and then use leather. The 1500 is so fine that it will take dirt off but virtually no wood. Just a couple swipes and then use the leather.

This is the best advice so far, IMO. I do exactly this when I want to clean and slicken-up my shafts.

If I want to remove a little wood (as in dent removal, and I did say a LITTLE wood), I may start with a 400 or 600 grit sandpaper, go up to the 1,000 grit, and then up to the 1500 grit, then burnish with a piece of leather (I use an old work glove cut into strips). Just don't stay on the shaft for too long with the coarser grit sandpapers unless you want to remove some serious wood. My shafts come out "slicker than owl s**t".

I don't mind removing a minute amount of wood during this process as it is barely noticable that there is any change in the diameter of the shaft after MANY of these treatments. And, when the time comes years down the road that the shaft is unplayable from the repeated sandings, then I'll just go support the billiard industry by purchasing a new shaft!!!

Maniac

 

[nancewayne]

Having bought and sold MANY used cues, some shafts have "roll-out" or "taper roll"...(when you roll the shaft on a flat surface, both tip and collar stay on the surface, but a gap is seen under the middle of the shaft). This condition (pretty typical of a used shaft) is caused by the removal of wood from the middle of the shaft, usually do to cleaning it. I DOES reduce the value of the cue. F.Y.I.

This is the best advice so far, IMO. I do exactly this when I want to clean and slicken-up my shafts.

If I want to remove a little wood (as in dent removal, and I did say a LITTLE wood), I may start with a 400 or 600 grit sandpaper, go up to the 1,000 grit, and then up to the 1500 grit, then burnish with a piece of leather (I use and old work glove cut into strips). Just don't stay on the shaft for too long with the coarser grit sandpapers unless you want to remove some serious wood. My shafts come out "slicker than owl s**t".

I don't mind removing a minute amount of wood during this process as it is barely noticable that there is any change in the diameter of the shaft after MANY of these treatments. And, when the time comes years down the road that the shaft is unplayable from the repeated sandings, then I'll just go support the billiard industry by purchasing a new shaft!!!

Maniac

 

[Maniac]

Having bought and sold MANY used cues, some shafts have "roll-out" or "taper roll"...(when you roll the shaft on a flat surface, both tip and collar stay on the surface, but a gap is seen under the middle of the shaft). This condition (pretty typical of a used shaft) is caused by the removal of wood from the middle of the shaft, usually do to cleaning it. I DOES reduce the value of the cue. F.Y.I.

1.) I have seen this "roll-out" condition on many BRAND NEW shafts.

2.) I have not yet caused this "roll-out" condition on ANY of my shafts by using the method I posted earlier.

3.) You mention the reduction of value of my cue due to "roll-out" condition. I believe you should have used the word shaft instead of the word cue, as the shaft is only a section of a cue and is the only part being sanded. Reducing the value of my shafts is NOT a concern for me.

It amazes me that some people treat a simple piece of wood as though it were a precious metal or something. Heck, sand it, take it down to a toothpick if you feel like it. Then, go buy another one for cryin' out loud. There's probably MILLIONS of them out there waiting to be bought.

Maniac

 

[RRfireblade]

I've used them for I don't know how many years. All I can say is all my ferrules are still perfectly flush with the wood of the shafts so if it's removing any wood , it aint much at all.

At least some of the 'white' that comes off is dead skin btw.

 

[bustinbob_99]

clean shaft

I'm the rookie here but i use the quick water routine with soft scrub an warm water for about 20 seconds and then a very fast drying. This cleans a dirty shaft and but results in a rough surface. I then work a little with the plastic sheets but focus on leather for a smooth surface. It seems to work for me.
I also use a little water and a small glass to roll out any minor dents. Seems to work.

 

[DeepBanks]

All good inputs above . . .

Both the Butcher's Bowling Alley Wax (Ace Hdwe, e-Bay) and MinWax Paste Floor Wax are good after you've cleaned the shaft. However, you must burnish it, hopefully on a lathe, after you've applied and let it dry for 5 - 10 minutes. Its a superior finish once you done it correctly.

The Magic Eraser is also a great product for cues, just dampen it - not wet; its very good if you have a HEAVY build-up of dirt or chalk. Then lightly clean with sandpaper, wax (2 - 3 coats) and burnish in between. After that, moist brown paper towel followed by a quick burnish with a brown paper towel and you'll keep your cue in good shape for 8 - 10 weeks of pretty heavy play.

The main thing is probably to do the maintenance on some routine basis . . . don't just let it go and do nothing for long periods. YOu'll have a lot more work and have to remove a lot to get it back to looking normal.

 

[Blue Hog ridr]

Yes it is abrasive. I don't know what grit sandpaper it would equate to but it would be very fine, something like 1500 to 2000 maybe finer. But what Two for Pool said is one of the best effective ways of maintaining your shaft. After you get a build up of wax, you're just taking off a small layer of dirty wax and then replacing it. You can do this quite well without a lathe and burnishing it with a piece of leather.
And save your money on the rest of the gimmick cleaners. You can get 16 pieces of ME from one box and use the same piece several times.
I'd like to try some Butchers as I go thru quite a bit of Q Wax. Just a good quality carnuba wax will do the trick also.

 

[Mike in MN]

Simple solution, two words: Magic Eraser. Slightly dampen it (I use water, others swear by denatured alcohol) and it will get as much grime out of your shaft as you'll ever expect anything to. After, I usually use Q-Slick to seal it and give it a nice smooth feel. I do this once every couple weeks and my cue stays as slick as snot on a door handle.

 

[Blue Hog ridr]

And here I thought you put vaseline on the door handles to keep the kids out.

 

[measureman]

Back in the days before all the shaft products were around we used to take a piece of common kitchen waxed paper and work it up and down a clean shaft real fast to warm up the wax so it would transfer to the shaft. Then follow up with a worn dollar bill or a piece of brown shopping bag paper.

 

[Blue Hog ridr]

Exactamundo, thats why I said save your money on gimmick cleaners and such. Not to say there aren't alot of great billiards products out there because there are. Some of these are just repackaged and sold as pool products. Sometimes the old tried and true methods work better.

 

[JimS]

The shaft will get just as smooth using no wax and burnishing as it does with wax. I've tried every product on the market and nothing is better than cleaning, sanding smooth and burnishing. NO CHEMICALS NEEDED.

 

[skip]

This works for me, take a magic eraser dampen it not wet as mention before here this will get all the chalk an pizza of the shaft. The best thing in the world I think. This will raise the grain ever so slightly take the leather side of the Q wiz rub the shaft till it gets hot. Then I take the butcher bowlers wax as mention before apply as directions state. You will find not only will the shaft be smooth a silk but you can almost blow the chalk off the shaft at the end of a nights play. Works for me.

 

[Dave Nelson]

Damp towel followed by dry towel followed by Butchers wax. Occasional light sanding. Keep it simple.

Dave Nelson

 

[Rich R.]

The shaft will get just as smooth using no wax and burnishing as it does with wax. I've tried every product on the market and nothing is better than cleaning, sanding smooth and burnishing. NO CHEMICALS NEEDED.

Jim, you have the best method. The wax actually attracks dirt. I would never apply wax to one of my shafts. Actually, the oils from your hands act as a good wood sealer, especially with a little burnishing. I clean my shaft with a damp paper towel followed by a dry paper towel and a burnisher. I don't normally use any sanding but on a rare occassion I will use the Q-Whiz. I concede that this method, over the long haul, will not keep your shaft perfectly clean but that is not a big issue with me. A used shaft should look used, IMHO.

Now, if someone wants to have a pristine, like new, looking shaft, I suggest the magic earaser, slightly dampened, followed buy a damp cloth to remove the residue. Then dry and burnish.

 

[measureman]

I just finished cleaning my shaft with Magic Eraser and alcohol. Then i burnished it with leather. It came out great. I had forgotten how white the wood was when new. It is still a little rough but I'm going to go play and hope the friction and hand oils with smooth it out.

 

[8Ball48043]

Magic Eraser cut into little erasers. Dry thoroughly. Burnish after.