Yes, magic eraser with alcohol works wonders..I bought a hurricane J/B cue a few years back on ebay. The cue was in great shape except the shaft looked like it was never cleaned.. Not just bluing but out right filthy, gave me the willies just to touch it... Anyway I was told on here to use magic eraser and alcohol, it took a little work but it didn't even hardily rase the grain. Brandished it with leather and it came out looking like new.. What about slipstix and all the conditioner cleaner stuff out there anyone use it..I've thought about it but never have..
Shaft wax / sealant
- Thread starter Aristo
- Start date
here's another tip
soft scrub,with bleach. It accually works better than magic Erasier.And you just buff after it's dry. Don't use too much,apply to damp sponge,spin shaft or just hand rub. (this tip is worth gold but I will settle for a green square.) I have at least 50 shafts that are as smooth,clean,and waxed- and yes like magic eraser it sayes don't use on wood -go figure. It must be cleaned before waxing and sealing. the juice works great(shellac and thinner). thanks mark
soft scrub,with bleach. It accually works better than magic Erasier.And you just buff after it's dry. Don't use too much,apply to damp sponge,spin shaft or just hand rub. (this tip is worth gold but I will settle for a green square.) I have at least 50 shafts that are as smooth,clean,and waxed- and yes like magic eraser it sayes don't use on wood -go figure. It must be cleaned before waxing and sealing. the juice works great(shellac and thinner). thanks mark
NaturalEnglish
Banned
Queperfect Ronnie Powell turned me onto this stuff...
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=236
Can also be found on ebay (search for Renaissance Wax). 65ml is actually alot and should last a long time.
If its good enough for the British museum its good enough for me. Really works well. Dont gum up and lasts a long time. I also clean with 99% alcohol and Magic Eraser before applying.
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=236
Can also be found on ebay (search for Renaissance Wax). 65ml is actually alot and should last a long time.
If its good enough for the British museum its good enough for me. Really works well. Dont gum up and lasts a long time. I also clean with 99% alcohol and Magic Eraser before applying.
I would think this combo to clean would be too abrasive wouldnt you think?HollyWood said:
Wax
I've found that many of the waxes "made especially for shafts" are really just carnauba wax. For the amount of money they charge, you could buy two huge cans of Meguiars, Mothers, or another car wax that is 100% carnauba.
A can of Meguiars is about 10 times the volume of a jar of most of the cue waxes, so it's going to last a long time.
I bought one jar of Cue Wax, then I figured this out. I won't be wasting any more money on it.
R.S.
Aristo said:
I've found that many of the waxes "made especially for shafts" are really just carnauba wax. For the amount of money they charge, you could buy two huge cans of Meguiars, Mothers, or another car wax that is 100% carnauba.
A can of Meguiars is about 10 times the volume of a jar of most of the cue waxes, so it's going to last a long time.
I bought one jar of Cue Wax, then I figured this out. I won't be wasting any more money on it.
R.S.
Last edited:
Ace Hardware has the Butcher Bowling Alley Wax for $7.49 for a 1lb can.Aristo said:
5 or 6 bucks is about right....and 1 can will last you a lifetime.
Hello, all...
I've been using Butcher's Wax for close to 40 yrs on all kinds of woods... even use it on table saw tops, etc.
While I wouldn't argue with the use of denatured alchohol for cleaning before waxing, I've found that simply applying the wax with a very fine 3m pad (600xx) is all that's needed to clean under normal circumstances. Just about all of the paste waxes mentioned are "oil"based and when applied with a lite abrasive, will strip any previously applied wax and clean while doing so. I'll generally apply with the 600xx grit pad and wipe just about immediately and then finish off with a lite application of the wax with a clean rag... let dry and then wipe. Very smooth results!
Personally I would avoid using alchohol on any wood that has any kind of finish other than just the wax itself...
No cuemaker here... just applying some general woodworking experience here.
best,
bob
I've been using Butcher's Wax for close to 40 yrs on all kinds of woods... even use it on table saw tops, etc.
While I wouldn't argue with the use of denatured alchohol for cleaning before waxing, I've found that simply applying the wax with a very fine 3m pad (600xx) is all that's needed to clean under normal circumstances. Just about all of the paste waxes mentioned are "oil"based and when applied with a lite abrasive, will strip any previously applied wax and clean while doing so. I'll generally apply with the 600xx grit pad and wipe just about immediately and then finish off with a lite application of the wax with a clean rag... let dry and then wipe. Very smooth results!
Personally I would avoid using alchohol on any wood that has any kind of finish other than just the wax itself...
No cuemaker here... just applying some general woodworking experience here.
best,
bob
No, I didn't buy mine online. I went to Ace Hardware and the price is $7.49 for a 1lb can.Aristo said:Thats where i bought mine from. But if i remember correctly, the price for the wax was like 5 something, and then they charged me 7 for shipping. so totals out to 12.
Yuuup . . . I agree.
I use MinWax on my cues . . . I take a make-up pad and apply some de-natured alcohol for clean-up, sand very lightly with 2000 grit and then apply the MinWax - let dry 10 minutes, buff with a soft cloth and then burnish a bit with a piece of leather. It keeps all the blueing and chalk off, seals the cue wood up and feels like NEW. If its really dirty or gritty I use a Magic Eraser (damp only) in place of the de-natured alcohol step.
Most of the fancy pool products I've used (Q-Slick, etc.) aren't worth all the hype . . .
If you're really averse to the blueing caused by chalk, then try using GRAY Master . . . no stain. The table gets some white marks, but that's easier to clean then a shaft.
RichZuHaus said:
I use MinWax on my cues . . . I take a make-up pad and apply some de-natured alcohol for clean-up, sand very lightly with 2000 grit and then apply the MinWax - let dry 10 minutes, buff with a soft cloth and then burnish a bit with a piece of leather. It keeps all the blueing and chalk off, seals the cue wood up and feels like NEW. If its really dirty or gritty I use a Magic Eraser (damp only) in place of the de-natured alcohol step.
Most of the fancy pool products I've used (Q-Slick, etc.) aren't worth all the hype . . .
If you're really averse to the blueing caused by chalk, then try using GRAY Master . . . no stain. The table gets some white marks, but that's easier to clean then a shaft.
> I had a can of Mother's Gold at one time that was great stuff. If you find some,make sure it's the yellow version. They also make a pinkish cleaner/wax that will stain your shafts. I've been using Meguiar's #26 High Tech Yellow for about 10 years now from the same can.
I found some stuff last night by accident that shows promise so far,but I haven't tried it under battle conditions. It's a variation of Mr. Zog's Sex Wax,geared towards skateboaders rather than surfers. I put some on one of my shafts last night and got about the same results as I did with Prather's Hog Shine. Tommy D.
I found some stuff last night by accident that shows promise so far,but I haven't tried it under battle conditions. It's a variation of Mr. Zog's Sex Wax,geared towards skateboaders rather than surfers. I put some on one of my shafts last night and got about the same results as I did with Prather's Hog Shine. Tommy D.
I picked up a can of Denatured Alcohol and a box of Magic Eraser at Home Depot today, but have yet to find any store that carries Butcher's Bowling Alley Wax ...
I hope to "score a Can" somewhere in Sacramento tomorrow after my daily 14.1 session at The Jointed Cue ...
I hope to "score a Can" somewhere in Sacramento tomorrow after my daily 14.1 session at The Jointed Cue ...
Str8PoolPlayer said:
Occasionally you'll get lucky and find it stocked in a hardware store....most often NOT though. Easier to just Google it & order online & have it shipped to your doorstep. True...with shipping charges you'll end up paying double....but with gas prices you could very quickly spend more. I wouldn't worry about the extra shipping charge....remember....one can will last you a lifetime. There are other waxes that many will try to convince you are the same or better....not so much....hold out for the real deal in the white & orange can.
Attachments
Last edited:
I see your point about driving all over creation looking for this stuff ... I will most likely get it online, as you suggested ...
cuejoey said:The various pool related stores sell the wax...A few years ago i started using a product made by Kiwi called "Wet Pruf" Walmart sells it in the shoe dept.....The whole trick/secret with any wax is to use the very thinest of film when putting it on...A common complaint from people that have used a wax is that little flakes fall off...That means you are useing too much...Again just use the slightest film on your cue let dry for a couple minutes then buff with a very soft cloth ..I use it on all my cues and they look like new and i play alot ...............Good luck to you...
Used to get a real good "spit shine" on my brogans using several thin coats of the clear Kiwi polish.
Jim