I have an Olhausen oversized 8' table. What is the actual playing surface of this table compared to a regular 8' table?
Table Measurement Question
- Thread starter LPHooper03
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Your table is 46" x 92". A regular eight foot table is 44" x 88". By comparison a nine foot table has a playing surface that is 50" x 100".
To add to these, a 7' bar box (Valley) is 40"x80". Looks like your's is right in the middle.
I have an 8 footer as well. Not too much of a stretch to go up to a 9 footer or down to a bar box. Good choice I think if you plan to play on both.
L8R...Ken
I would say easiest and most accurate way to know is to take a measuring tape and measure it.
So called home 8's are 44 x 88, and commercial 8's are 46 x 92 between the rails (playing surface). No matter what it is the length should be twice the width.
Yea, I thought the oversized 8' was a perfect compromise. I do play a lot on the 7' Valley's, but I like to perfect my aim on a Brunswick 9'
Diamond 8 ft playing size
I'm not trying to complicate things, but I feel that I need to tell the playing size of an 8 ft. table if one is purchased from Diamond. I don't want any incorrect assumptions if you are measuring you're room size to fit the length of you're personal cue.
It didn't make much sense for my company to inventory 2 relatively close sizes of 8 ft slates the 44 x88 and the 46 x 92. It seemed like I was always needing the size I didn't have and a couple times shipping errors were made due to how much they looked alike that I did the following:
7 ft = 40 x 80
8 ft = 45 x 90 (not 44x88 or 46x92)
9 ft = 50 x 100
Anyway that's what I did. One inch on the width and two inches on the length as well as an 8 ft table being right between that of a 7 ft and 9 ft made more sense to me.....Sorry if it confuses or dissapoints anyone wanting the other 2 sizes....Greg/Diamond
I'm not trying to complicate things, but I feel that I need to tell the playing size of an 8 ft. table if one is purchased from Diamond. I don't want any incorrect assumptions if you are measuring you're room size to fit the length of you're personal cue.
It didn't make much sense for my company to inventory 2 relatively close sizes of 8 ft slates the 44 x88 and the 46 x 92. It seemed like I was always needing the size I didn't have and a couple times shipping errors were made due to how much they looked alike that I did the following:
7 ft = 40 x 80
8 ft = 45 x 90 (not 44x88 or 46x92)
9 ft = 50 x 100
Anyway that's what I did. One inch on the width and two inches on the length as well as an 8 ft table being right between that of a 7 ft and 9 ft made more sense to me.....Sorry if it confuses or dissapoints anyone wanting the other 2 sizes....Greg/Diamond
Greg, this makes a lot more sense than the old way of having two different 8' table sizes. It has always been confusing. Good for you for making a logical change to the old way of doing things. And for the first time, an 8' table is exactly mid size between a 7' and a 9' table. Makes a lot of sense to me.
P.S. Now can you come to my house and teach me how to play on my Diamond? I need some lessons, CHEAP!
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If 3 1/2' by 7'= 42" x 84"...then why is a 40" x 80" playing surface called a 7ft table?
If 4' by 8'= 48" x 96"...then why is a 44" x 88" playing surface called an 8ft table?
If 4 1/2' by 9'= 54" x 108"...then why is a 50" x 100" playing surface called a 9ft table?
Glen
If 4' by 8'= 48" x 96"...then why is a 44" x 88" playing surface called an 8ft table?
If 4 1/2' by 9'= 54" x 108"...then why is a 50" x 100" playing surface called a 9ft table?
Glen
Answers to my questions
A pool tables surface is actually measured by the total area of cloth, which means this includes the cloth on the rails. The cloth on the rails from nose of cushion to the finished surface of the rails...and is suppose to be 2" wide on all cushions. Now, a tables playing surface is suppose to be twice as long as it is wide, so when you double the width of the table you're also doubling the rails, meaning 2 side rails turns into 4 side rails, now we all know there's not 4 end rails on a table so that means when doubling the width of the playing surface 2 of them rails are ghost rails, meaning they're not really there other than in measurment...so...
a real 3 1/2 by 7ft table has a playing surface of 42" x 84". Now subtract the width of the cushions being 2" from both sides of the table and that's 42" -4" which leaves you 38" and now subtract 8" from the length of the table, which is 2 rail cushions and 2 ghost cushions all being 2" in width, that leaves you 76"....so the playing surface of a real 3 1/2 by 7ft pool table is 38" x 76"
an 8ft table having a playing area of 4' by 8'ft is 48"x96"...subtract the 4" of side rail cushions and subtract the same 4" in lenght plus the 4" of ghost rails....and a real 4' by 8'ft pool table has a playing surface of 44" x 88" inches.
Now the 9ft table, it being 4 1/2' by 9'ft, has a 50" by 100" playing surface because if you take 4 1/2' which is 54" and subtract 4" for cushion width leaves you with a playing surface width of 50" and if you take the 9ft which is 108" and subtract the 4" of real cushions and 4" of ghost cushions, that leaves you with a playing surface lenght of 100"....there for the table is in porportion to it's name...a 9ft pool table
So, tables with a 40" x 80" playing surface are really oversized 7ft tables, and tables with a 45" x 90" and 46" x 92" are oversized 8ft tables, and I feel it's incorrect to call them "8ft" pool tables...when they are actually not, tho they are in porportion to twice as long as they are wide.
So, in summery...a real 7ft table is 38" x 76"
a real 8ft table is 44"x 88"
a real 9ft table is 50" x 100"
So, each size table if you add a half foot to it's width you get the next table up in size...correctly
Glen
PS. This is not to take away from Greg's efforts to build the 45" x 90" 8ft table, I think it's a great playing table and support it 100% National use to build a 45" x 90" years ago as a bar table and they were always the more played tables in the bars they were in over the 44" x 88" 8fts in the same bars:thumbup:
A pool tables surface is actually measured by the total area of cloth, which means this includes the cloth on the rails. The cloth on the rails from nose of cushion to the finished surface of the rails...and is suppose to be 2" wide on all cushions. Now, a tables playing surface is suppose to be twice as long as it is wide, so when you double the width of the table you're also doubling the rails, meaning 2 side rails turns into 4 side rails, now we all know there's not 4 end rails on a table so that means when doubling the width of the playing surface 2 of them rails are ghost rails, meaning they're not really there other than in measurment...so...
a real 3 1/2 by 7ft table has a playing surface of 42" x 84". Now subtract the width of the cushions being 2" from both sides of the table and that's 42" -4" which leaves you 38" and now subtract 8" from the length of the table, which is 2 rail cushions and 2 ghost cushions all being 2" in width, that leaves you 76"....so the playing surface of a real 3 1/2 by 7ft pool table is 38" x 76"
an 8ft table having a playing area of 4' by 8'ft is 48"x96"...subtract the 4" of side rail cushions and subtract the same 4" in lenght plus the 4" of ghost rails....and a real 4' by 8'ft pool table has a playing surface of 44" x 88" inches.
Now the 9ft table, it being 4 1/2' by 9'ft, has a 50" by 100" playing surface because if you take 4 1/2' which is 54" and subtract 4" for cushion width leaves you with a playing surface width of 50" and if you take the 9ft which is 108" and subtract the 4" of real cushions and 4" of ghost cushions, that leaves you with a playing surface lenght of 100"....there for the table is in porportion to it's name...a 9ft pool table
So, tables with a 40" x 80" playing surface are really oversized 7ft tables, and tables with a 45" x 90" and 46" x 92" are oversized 8ft tables, and I feel it's incorrect to call them "8ft" pool tables...when they are actually not, tho they are in porportion to twice as long as they are wide.
So, in summery...a real 7ft table is 38" x 76"
a real 8ft table is 44"x 88"
a real 9ft table is 50" x 100"
So, each size table if you add a half foot to it's width you get the next table up in size...correctly
Glen
PS. This is not to take away from Greg's efforts to build the 45" x 90" 8ft table, I think it's a great playing table and support it 100% National use to build a 45" x 90" years ago as a bar table and they were always the more played tables in the bars they were in over the 44" x 88" 8fts in the same bars:thumbup:
It took me a while to get it... that's pretty confusing. I didn't get the "ghost rails" thing. I have another way of explaining it, correct me if this is wrong. This is what did it for me, mentally:
Forget the rails entirely and pretend there are no rails.
Make the width 4 inches less than the 'expected' width. So for a 4.5' x 9' table,
that's 54-4 = 50 inches.
Don't make the length 4 inches less than the 'expected' length. Instead, just double the width that you just calculated. That's the proper length. So 50x100.
You want a proportional table and this guarantees you have one.
Now add your cushions back on and that's your table.
What hung me up is the thought: Why can't I just use the same formula to get a length as I used to get width (i.e. subtract 4 inches from 108)? Because your goal is to have a perfect 2:1 rectangle. If you had a perfectly square table, removing 4 inches from the length and 4 inches from the width would still leave you with a perfect square. But since it's a rectangle, removing the same amount from the sides as you do from the top and bottom isn't "proportional", you're left with a skinnier rectangle than when you started. To prevent this, You have to remove twice as much from the top and bottom as you do from the sides to preserve that 2:1 shape.
If you're sharp you're probably thinking at this point: But if I add 4 inches of cushions to the 50 inches I get 54", and if I do the same to 104" is NOT 9 feet. It's 8 and 2/3rds feet.
I think that this is just the reality of pool tables, they are not truly 9 feet from 'finish to finish'. They are a bit short. But we CALL them 9 x 4.5 because it's more convenient and reinforces that whole "2:1" idea.
Forget the rails entirely and pretend there are no rails.
Make the width 4 inches less than the 'expected' width. So for a 4.5' x 9' table,
that's 54-4 = 50 inches.
Don't make the length 4 inches less than the 'expected' length. Instead, just double the width that you just calculated. That's the proper length. So 50x100.
You want a proportional table and this guarantees you have one.
Now add your cushions back on and that's your table.
What hung me up is the thought: Why can't I just use the same formula to get a length as I used to get width (i.e. subtract 4 inches from 108)? Because your goal is to have a perfect 2:1 rectangle. If you had a perfectly square table, removing 4 inches from the length and 4 inches from the width would still leave you with a perfect square. But since it's a rectangle, removing the same amount from the sides as you do from the top and bottom isn't "proportional", you're left with a skinnier rectangle than when you started. To prevent this, You have to remove twice as much from the top and bottom as you do from the sides to preserve that 2:1 shape.
If you're sharp you're probably thinking at this point: But if I add 4 inches of cushions to the 50 inches I get 54", and if I do the same to 104" is NOT 9 feet. It's 8 and 2/3rds feet.
I think that this is just the reality of pool tables, they are not truly 9 feet from 'finish to finish'. They are a bit short. But we CALL them 9 x 4.5 because it's more convenient and reinforces that whole "2:1" idea.
So then what would the correct room size be for the 7' diamond table?
Lucky
Lucky
Po-tay-toe
Whatever size table you have, just add 4.5' all around and you have just enough room. In other words, for a 3.5' x 7' table, you need a minimum 12.5' x 16' room. You are using the overall dimensions of the table plus adding 4.5' all the way around. It's a little tight but it will work. For best results (and adequate room for bar stools and a cue rack), add 5' all around. So for a 3.5' x 7' table, now you need 13.5' x 17'.
Room size is measured by the inside playing surface of the table, what ever table that may be
Thanks guys! It will fit like a charm! Now I just need to knock off the local bank to fund my new Diamond table. :thumbup:
Lucky
Lucky
RKC,
Please help me get this straight. I'm a little confused.
What are the measurements of a 9' table from cushion nose (where ball meets cushion) to cushion nose? Is this the 50" X 100"?
And is it this measurement that is considered the playing surface?
Or is the 50" X 100" include the entire cloth covered cushion (about 2") all the way to the "furniture" portion of the rail? See, I thought this is what is supposed to measure 54 X 108.
Thanks!
Please help me get this straight. I'm a little confused.
What are the measurements of a 9' table from cushion nose (where ball meets cushion) to cushion nose? Is this the 50" X 100"?
And is it this measurement that is considered the playing surface?
Or is the 50" X 100" include the entire cloth covered cushion (about 2") all the way to the "furniture" portion of the rail? See, I thought this is what is supposed to measure 54 X 108.
Thanks!
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Atthecat, thanks, bro. So the 50 X 100 is the inside dimensions measured from cushion nose to cushion nose in both the length and the width. And the cushions themselves nor the surface under the cushions counts in the 50X100.
Then how is the 4 1/2 by 9 (54" x 108") measured? I think this is where the ghost cushion RKC was talking about comes in to play, but I don't get it because if you add the length of the cushions (2" for each rail) then you are adding 4" to each measurement which ends up being 54" X 104". What's up wit dat ghost cushion thingy?