What do you do here?

Now thats pretty funny.....I wouldnt be worried about that unless you had an arm like Goose Gossage !!!!
 
What about shooting the Crane Shot, go 2 rails with the cueball and slide off the side of the rack. and continue down into the kitchen area after contacting a rail.
I have tried this several times already, and each time was pretty successful !

-Steve

If Cuetable.com was working i would do a diagram to show what i mean !

This is actually the 1st thing that popped into my mind.

Why?

Because i saw Jimmy Caras shoot this a bunch of times back in the day, and he hit it GOOD.
Cueball 2 rails and out, barely skims off the side of the pack, and goes uptable to the top rail.

If you Wiff, you are on the first foul, big deal.

So of course, with this in mind, i think it might have been in the next couple of days from when i first saw it that i tried it in a game and hit it PERFECT!
Everyone watching was like "WOW!!!"
I was totally amazed with how easy it was.

And then i think the next 20 times i tried it, i 2 railed into the corner ball and busted them wide open or whiffed, each and every time. Haha.

But whenever this situation comes up, i still always shoot it.

IMO, this was no fluke shot for those guys from that golden 14.1 era.
They hit it too good for it to be that.

Probably just like everything else. Practice it enough so that you can have a high level of accuracy to hit the middle of that side of the pack.

But who really takes the time to practice stuff like this anymore.
 
Well you guys certainly put alot of faith in the roll of the table, either that or you are just angry at your wallets !!!!

You can roll onto this head ball with a touch more speed than you may think. Try it a few times. You just need to feel the spot that prevents the CB from rolling out.

Only one corner ball needs to hit the end rail for a good safety which IMO is much less likely to leave multiple shots than an opening break shot would.

Especially considering that in order to play a ball in hand opening break again, you already have conceded an additional 15 points.

I'll admit I didn't read all of Bob's article, but if I recall the safety that used to be called Crane's, it was CB two rails doubling the corner (long rail, short rail) and just touching along the side of the rack on it's way back up table.

Suicide when you're on two IMO. This shot requires knowledge of how the CB reacts not off one rail, but off two rails, plus speed control so as not to leave the CB in a position where an easy return safety is available. Now there is a mad at your wallet shot. :)
 
IMHO, the key here is to not take the third scratch [assuming skilled players]. Remember, the OP's assumption is that the opponent is equal in skill to you. So, as I look at this and assuming my opponent plays as well as I do, my chance of winning from a re-break and a 97-69 wire is very unlikely. 31 and out is probably my only winning outcome.
Whatever play one uses to avoid the third scratch is pretty much a personal choice; play what you think you can execute be it the Crane safe, headball bunt, etc. The skill level of the respective players should be included in considering the response to the OP's question.
 
IMHO, the key here is to not take the third scratch [assuming skilled players]. Remember, the OP's assumption is that the opponent is equal in skill to you. So, as I look at this and assuming my opponent plays as well as I do, my chance of winning from a re-break and a 97-69 wire is very unlikely. 31 and out is probably my only winning outcome.
Whatever play one uses to avoid the third scratch is pretty much a personal choice; play what you think you can execute be it the Crane safe, headball bunt, etc. The skill level of the respective players should be included in considering the response to the OP's question.


Rik: His original question had both at 99 so anything open resulted in loss of game. That is when I said just take the intentional. Others have pointed out my chances from there of actually doing a good safe and running the 17 left would probably have been slimmer than executing either of the two options you mentioned so you are probably right. I did the head ball bunt just last week and got away with it, so....
 
I'll try to post a quick video tomorrow of a nice little move. Someone pulled it out on me a few months ago (executed perfectly) and ever since then I think I've shot it over 100x to make sure I could do it myself.

If you execute it correctly, it puts you in position to win the game from here.
 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=genwjANodF8

If you're not afraid to kick behind the rack with a safety-- going 2 rails is just as effective with a little practice (each table is different, so you have to find "THE SPOT" to hit on any particular table).

On my table, I sight between the middle diamond (2) and 2.5. So, I'm sighting a 2.25 diamond hit (it makes contact something like 1/2 diamond away from the side pocket). IGNORE the chalk on the video--- it was there randomly and I didn't think to move it.

With just a LITTLE practice, you can get this shot down pretty good. You want to hit the frontside of the 1st ball in. I happened to clip the corner ball barely enroute, but I still hit the 1st ball in firmly.

Is this a flier? Of COURSE - but nowhere as much a flier as many think. The secret to hitting this shot good is to not be afraid. You have to hit it with speed with MAX low-right (or low-left if going to the opposite side rail). You must be loaded up with inside and hit it with enough speed where the inside takes off the 2nd rail.

In a do-or-die situation, this is WAY more effective than the Crane safety and WAY easier to predict. Instead of some puss safety with no offensive outcome (which could result in foul #3), you get the chance of a blown-up table, a LOCK safety (or really close) and your opponent coming to the table on 2. You're now in a position to WIN the game and you didn't have to punch your opponent in the gut. He might PUKE -- but only because he's SICK. You just completely changed the dynamic of the situation. You just left him in a SICKER place than he left you on the short rail.

Dave
 
?

Dave:
Thanks for posting the video. It is a good shot on your table.
I guarantee that if you took that shot on my table with that type of speed. The balls would be every where. I watched you take that shot a few times and you hit it hard and the rack opened up very slowly. I could tell that your table is playing slow. At least it is on this day of video taping.
Enjoyed watching the video.

I really want to see a video of the shot that 3andstop stated. Taking a safe off the top of the rack from where the cue ball was at. That is what I would like to see and to know how many trys he takes at it.
 
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Dave:
Thanks for posting the video. It is a good shot on your table.
I guarantee that if you took that shot on my table with that type of speed. The balls would be every where. I watched you take that shot a few times and you hit it hard and the rack opened up very slowly. I could tell that your table is playing slow. At least it is on this day of video taping.
Enjoyed watching the video.

I really want to see a video of the shot that 3andstop stated. Taking a safe off the top of the rack from where the cue ball was at. That is waht I would like to see and to know how many trys he takes at it.

I did my shot in 2 tries. The first try I left a short-rail bank. I have 760 simonis on my table -- it's fast. The speed dies considerably off the 2nd rail. I'd have no problem replicating that shot on any table. NOT every time, mind you--- but enough to feel comfortable that I have a solid chance of executing it.

Believe me -- this is a flier (as I'd define a flier). However, if you can pull this off 60% of the time, it's better than hitting the head ball 100% of the time where you figure you'd get the 1st shot 50% of the time because the guy you're playing plays your speed or better. That's my assumption, at least. If I wasn't dead-on the center line and off to the side, I'd 1-rail kick behind the rack and give myself a solid chance to win (since I nut that almost at will). If there's a chance for me to avoid a tit-for-tat with someone of equal or better ability and win--- I'd prob take it in that scenario described in post 1.

Dave
 
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That was an interesting plan of defensive attack, but IMHO it can be perilous if you dont hit it just right !!!

-Steve
 
That was an interesting plan of defensive attack, but IMHO it can be perilous if you dont hit it just right !!!

-Steve

You're exactly right. But as they say (FWD to 2:49):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1MYUrVxYnRg

Every shot from the starting position is perilous when on 2 fouls. When your opponent is on the bubble of victory, it's ok to be drastic at times. When you pull this in a game, it can pop someone's heart for weeks to come.
 
Thanks

I did my shot in 2 tries. The first try I left a short-rail bank. I have 760 simonis on my table -- it's fast. The speed dies considerably off the 2nd rail. I'd have no problem replicating that shot on any table. NOT every time, mind you--- but enough to feel comfortable that I have a solid chance of executing it.

Believe me -- this is a flier (as I'd define a flier). However, if you can pull this off 60% of the time, it's better than hitting the head ball 100% of the time where you figure you'd get the 1st shot 50% of the time because the guy you're playing plays your speed or better. That's my assumption, at least. If I wasn't dead-on the center line and off to the side, I'd 1-rail kick behind the rack and give myself a solid chance to win (since I nut that almost at will). If there's a chance for me to avoid a tit-for-tat with someone of equal or better ability and win--- I'd prob take it in that scenario described in post 1.

Dave



Thanks for getting back to me. As soon as I get my table all back together. I am going to practice that shot from different areas up table.
I know if I can get it down. It will come in handy for me in many matches.
Thanks.
 
Thanks for getting back to me. As soon as I get my table all back together. I am going to practice that shot from different areas up table.
I know if I can get it down. It will come in handy for me in many matches.
Thanks.

The secret is:

1) Hit firm
2) Max low-inside
3) Make contact as close to head-on with the 1st ball in as possible

The closer you get to the center of the bottom of the rack, the more you lose the CB and sell out.
 
OK, fine. Nice shot, but

The secret is:

1) Hit firm
2) Max low-inside
3) Make contact as close to head-on with the 1st ball in as possible

The closer you get to the center of the bottom of the rack, the more you lose the CB and sell out.

Dave, what I want to know is-is your Avatar a screen shot from a video? Where's the video? Can you tell us? I'll pay.

As usual, Dave-good information-and GREAT Avatar. Holy sh!t.
 
This shot came up the other day and I tried it. Well it worked even better for
me then in your video.Top of rack really spread but whitey was part of a
"Siamese Triplet" and wasn't going anywhere. Shot basically the same shot later,cue was closer to the left corner pocket,and this time was a sell out.
Probably will practice this shot from different angles,spin,speeds,and get a real idea as to when it works and when it is to risky.
Thanks for posting the video, Jack
 
in the last dozen or so games i have played, i have tried the shot that was revealed to us 4 times and i sold out each time....

so i guess in my opinion it isnt such a great shot unless you know the table to a T that you are playing on.

-Steve
 
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