WWYD - Random 10-ball Layout

I would normally leave these type of WWYD for the couple of guys that already do this, but I had a layout today that was one of those that I just think makes 10-ball completely unfair to hacks like me. It also shows why photos on the internet (or doing commentary from the sidelines) is so difficult Even after I took the photos, it seem the solution was easy. Then I looked at the table again, and that easy solution just isn't there.

Anyhoos, playing the ghost or you have BIH after your opponent scratched on the break. The angle to the 2-ball and the 3-ball are the whole solution to the rack. How would you play it?


You've already got your solution by placing your cuestick there!

I would place the cueball on the other side of the 1... (two good options there)

...1: playing follow 2 rails with just high or maybe a little high left English. Using the 2,5~3 diamond on the long rail to come out between your cuetip and the joint of that cue (almost Cleary's route - just from the other side of the 1)!

...2: placing the cueball almost parallel to the short rail or just half a tip below the 1. Using the long rail on the 2,5~3 diamond to come out also right between the tip and joint of this cue on the table.

Maybe you'll try these solutions and get some good results.
Good luck and have fun!
 
A good player would probably play safe but I'd pocket the 2 with inside trying to run into the 10
 
I normally don't like to do this, but in some cases playing to bump the cue ball into an obect ball is easier than trying to weave through them. I might cut the 1 in the corner at enough of an angle to send the cue ball straight into the 9 with no rails. If I mess up and tap either the 8 or 9, odds are I'll still have a shot.
 
IMG_5609.JPG


I like taking BIH under the one and going to the side ride with a soft follow stroke and touch of running English. It keeps on you on the correct side of the two ball. The only danger is a bump on the eight ball (red path), which is totally manageable. I diagrammed a few other potential end state positions.

I think the yellow position is best case scenario.

From the two - to the three - a bump on the five ball (green path) should be easy to judge. At a soft speed, nothing would be tied up. And may even simplify the run out by developing the five ball to a position along the same side rail as the four.


playonepocket

You pretty much said the same thing as me except with much better drawings on possible positions of the cueball, well done and thanks for making me look like a 5th grader teaching pool :D
 
3 Rail Option

For most tables, shooting just off straight with inside follow will take you to between 1/2 to 1 diamond past the center pocket as I diagram. It's almost impossible to scratch it from that high on the table and you have to stun it to get on a line toward the 2nd diamond.

It doesn't take a lot of power to get to the 3rd rail and will check up a bit off that rail to help hold for the 2 ball. Definitely a shot to practice as it offers a very predictable route.
 

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2 More Options

The first white option is just off straight with inside and follow. It will likely clip the 7 off the rail. Could get snookered but would be a bit unlucky.

The second black path option is about 1/2 to 3/4 ball. With some practice you can get to know what angle takes you through the center of the table for these shots and adjust the CB angle to steer left or right as needed. Coming across the line of shot but worth considering as an option if you know your table speed for this shot.

I prefer my first option (above post) as I'm never going to get snookered.
 

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I'd try to runout depending on how I felt I was shooting and what the score was in the set.

I like shooting the 1 ball to the left upper corner and drawing straight up table towards the 7 as a blocker to get on the 2. Then just pick it apart.

If I wasn't feeling the runout, and we are playing the opponent is already on 1 foul, I could get them on 2 fouls with an easy third for the win. Cueball behind 1 and thin 1 ball over under the 4 ball on the longrail while running whitey under the 2 and 3 balls. When the kick is missed then ball in hand again for and easy 3rd foul by shooting the 1 away from the area and rolling cue ball up behind the 4 ball. This is a great opportunity for and easy, early win.
 
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Back cut the 1 ball in corner softly, using center left spin. Cue ball spins off rail short of side pocket, and is headed to bump or land below 8 ball.

Yep, that's my choice....all the left you can handle.
 
I normally don't like to do this, but in some cases playing to bump the cue ball into an obect ball is easier than trying to weave through them. I might cut the 1 in the corner at enough of an angle to send the cue ball straight into the 9 with no rails. If I mess up and tap either the 8 or 9, odds are I'll still have a shot.

This is exactly what I was going to say.

Sometimes we try too hard for perfect position, or at least I do. I do this a lot in bar table 8 ball. There's the rule of thumb that you should never bump into balls that are in the open so I think I'm guilty of ruling out the ball bumping idea too soon or not even considering it. But there are many times like in this example, when running into a ball can be a good idea. Targeting the 9 ball here is a good choice I think.
 
Playing the ghost I would back-cut the one and try to stun the cueball towards the 7.
This is exactly what I would do as well. Obviously aim to hit the right-half of the 7 if it were to get that far, but ideally stop just short of the 7.

I'm not too worried about getting the exact angle on the 2, just don't get hooked on the 2.
 
Lets see:

1) Shooting from the approximate angle shown, I would roll the one in with outside, going to the side rail fairly near the side pocket. I'm coming off the rail towards the 8 ball. You could get this same line several ways. You just need to hit this with good speed.

2) Depending on the severity of the cut on the 2, I would either soft draw to the bottom rail, or roll it in and go into the 5 ball to stop. Going into the 5 ball is nice because it would relocate to the side rail which is easier to access.

3) If I got to the bottom rail for the 3, I would follow into the left side rail and come back across at the 7 ball. If I had to hit the 5 before, I would draw around the 7.

4) If I moved the 5 or the 7, this will effect how to play this shot, probably making it easier. Otherwise it is easy to get close to straight on the 5, rolling the cue ball to the bottom rail and back up between the 7 and 9.

5) Pretty much any angle I get on the 6 allows me to get fairly straight on the 7. Follow the 7 to play the 8 in the side. If I get too much angle on the 7 ball, I stun to the right side rail and play the 8 in the bottom left corner. I'd rather NOT do that though, because you can pretty much get on the wrong side of every one of the last balls easily.

6) Ideally, I play the 8 in the left side, roll to the top rail with outside english, go to the right side rail, and come right down a nice line on the 9. Easy to get on 10 from there.


Now I guess I need to try this!

KMRUNOUT
 
I think this route is less risky. You can go too long or too short and still have a shot at the 2 and don't really risk getting hooked. Shot on the 2 is a bit tougher because you gotta hold the cueball but I like this way better.

e6RbaJv.png

That's what I thought too.

KMRUNOUT
 
IMG_5609.JPG


I like taking BIH under the one and going to the side ride with a soft follow stroke and touch of running English. It keeps on you on the correct side of the two ball. The only danger is a bump on the eight ball (red path), which is totally manageable. I diagrammed a few other potential end state positions.

I think the yellow position is best case scenario.

From the two - to the three - a bump on the five ball (green path) should be easy to judge. At a soft speed, nothing would be tied up. And may even simplify the run out by developing the five ball to a position along the same side rail as the four.


playonepocket

Thanks, for diagramming my shot.
 
I normally don't like to do this, but in some cases playing to bump the cue ball into an obect ball is easier than trying to weave through them. I might cut the 1 in the corner at enough of an angle to send the cue ball straight into the 9 with no rails. If I mess up and tap either the 8 or 9, odds are I'll still have a shot.

I think that this and any other suggestion that bumping a ball in this case is really the best in this case. I think every suggestion is definitely valid and more than likely, something's got to be bumped.

I love the different looks. I definitely am intrigued by:

TheThaiger's suggestion to come straight down between the 8ball and 9ball. No 9-baller would think about doing this (one rail down the middle), but it's not a bad idea at all. I tried it, bumped into the 9-ball, and the cueball ended up perfect. Couldn't get bad if it snuck through the 8-ball and 9-ball.

Colin's follow while doubling the corner, in my opinion, is beyond most amateurs, but now that's he put it up there, I have to believe this is the best route if you've got the skills. This most definitely a 9-baller shot.

Freddie <~~~ lost the shut out
 
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Im looking to gamble with anybody using 3 rail shape here with ball in hand. If you are shooting put the cueball under the 1 a bit and shoot to top left corner, let CB drift down in front of 7. No rails needed here, you have a good 15 inches to land fine and the 7 to stop CB as well. If you don't get it play safe with 2 ball.
 
Colin's follow while doubling the corner, in my opinion, is beyond most amateurs, but now that's he put it up there, I have to believe this is the best route if you've got the skills. This most definitely a 9-baller shot.

I'm wrong a lot, ask my wife... but I find it hard to believe many, including/especially pros, would take that route with ball in hand.
 
Im looking to gamble with anybody using 3 rail shape here with ball in hand. If you are shooting put the cueball under the 1 a bit and shoot to top right corner, let CB drift down in front of 7. No rails needed here, you have a good 15 inches to land fine and the 7 to stop CB as well. If you don't get it play safe with 2 ball.

This.

Even without ball in hand, like in the first picture, I'm just going one rail toward the 7.
 
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IMG_5609.JPG


I like taking BIH under the one and going to the side ride with a soft follow stroke and touch of running English. It keeps on you on the correct side of the two ball. The only danger is a bump on the eight ball (red path), which is totally manageable. I diagrammed a few other potential end state positions.

I think the yellow position is best case scenario.

From the two - to the three - a bump on the five ball (green path) should be easy to judge. At a soft speed, nothing would be tied up. And may even simplify the run out by developing the five ball to a position along the same side rail as the four.


playonepocket

I think you have the right shot with the wrong stroke. Instead of hitting it softly with a touch of left it should be stroked more firmly with a touch of right. It will hit the same first rail target and be much easier to control. Running english just has a way of running away.

JC
 
I didn't like that because the cue ball angle would change as it comes off the rail. The angle would close instead of opening up. So instead of hitting or falling below the 8, it could get stuck behind the 8 or 9.

I'm looking at the diagram again, and I like the "bump" spot best. The "best scenario" looks too straight. "Manageable" is nice too but F using the bridge.

I also have to agree with Cleary, and I like his shot too. (Also not liking multiple rail options.) I only prefer my way over clearys because I'm more accurate with follow as opposed to draw....but that's just me. Not saying my way is any better.
 
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