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Compete without fear

boogieman
ShootingArts said:
There should be a frustrated emoticon! There were several years where I would make a great shot, all the feel good chemicals would dump, and I would miss a duck!
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One of my worse ones happened in a race to 5. He was/is a good player. He would handily beat me most days. I'm up 4-0, and one single solitary thought went through my mind, "I should have this one, all I have to do is play smart."

The final score was him, 5-4.

At least it taught me something about those feel good chemicals and letting your foot off a guys neck. Don't try to coast across the finish line! 😂
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Soft hitting custom cue maker cues?

Bavafongoul
MitchAlsup said:
Some tapers start right at the ferrule.
Some tapers go about 6"-8" at tip diameter before starting to widen.
Some tapers go about 12"-14" at nearly tip diameter before starting to widen.
Some tapers have a long radius between the straight part and the conical part.
Some tapers have a rather shorter radius between ...
Some tapers use a parabola instead of a radius ...

And many owners would need a dial caliper to see what taper is on the shaft they prefer.

So, in a technical sense, you are correct that the taper ALWAYS starts at the ferrule.
But in another sense, you don't/can/t feel the taper in your bridge until you are 8"-12" back from the ferule (European Pro taper)
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So you were referring to where the shaft size proportionately increases down the length on 29” of wood, i.e., shaft.
Absolutely agree….my cues have an a slightly extended pro taper of 14-15 inches regardless of the shaft diameter.
I make it a point to also have heavier weight shafts since the butts on almost all my cues are by design only 14.5 ozs.
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