Fred “Scooter” Goodman is a thief. Here’s how he stole from me:

It's sad we live in a world where we cannot trust even friends with our belongings...
Whether in my hometown, or where I live now, thankfully, I am surrounded by people who I would happily trust with my belongings, and I have been trusted with theirs.
Hope you get it back, and I hope that doesn't stop you from trusting people in your community.

If you can't trust them they aren't friends, they are acquaintances. I think I have said it in this very thread, I thoroughly enjoyed the company of the con men and shysters. I never made the mistake they were friends though. Some tried to get over on me for years, they hated thinking there was somebody they couldn't get over on. I watched them get over on other people for amounts large and small so I wasn't letting them have a chance to get over on me!

I was known to drink a bit, maybe even two bits. A couple of small time hustlers would cheat at cards or dice but I wouldn't play. Pool was my game. They figured they had me when I was so drunk I couldn't stand. Naah, I had a lot of experience playiing drunk I am sorry to say. They were first of all hustlers not pool players and it took a pool player to beat me even when I was drunk.

Hu

Older Merry Widow Cue Identification – Pointed 5/16×14 Piloted Joint

Okay, I thought we had identified both cues at once, but I’m now seeing the other one up close and realizing it’s not quite the same. It appears to be very similar construction, but there are some specific differences:

Known Adam A/H-20
Weight: 16.8 oz
Length: 57.5”
Joint: 5/16x18
Collar: Aluminum
Joint diameter: .840”
Pilot diameter: .520”
Butt diameter: 1.250”

Unknown cue
Weight: 17.5 oz
Length: 57”
Joint: 5/16x18
Collar: Brass
Joint diameter: .870”
Pilot diameter: .540”
Butt diameter: 1.340”

Interestingly, I also found a very similar 57” cue in an older thread that was never specifically identified:

https://forums.azbilliards.com/threads/cue-id-and-value-help-needed.280315/post-3661570

Any thoughts on this one? Maybe an earlier Adam?
The other cue may look similar to you but it is very different.

Immediate possibilities are makers like National, Gandy, Rich, Mali, and others...including imports.

That butt cap looks very much like Delrin (or generic acetal plastic).

The way that butt cap ends, with no wood exposed, just a screw hole, smacks of Asian import, although the butt cap material is off for that.

The bumper and screw head resemble the old Mali River cues, before the Green label cues. But the pilot profile is wrong. But...maybe?

Cues like this were so numerous from so many different makers and brands, they can be more challenging to identify. Of course, that takes a lot of time and effort so it isn't likely worth it unless you are just personally passionate about it.

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The one you linked to looks like a Rich Q, but you notice in a following post I said likely Master. The issue with that is Mater cues are usually stamped with the brand in the wood. Although you say it is similar to what we see in these current posts, I don't see it as similar. The devil is in the details.

I think of the break as a skill set, so why have rules, and so many rules, restricting the break?

Pocket size doesn't change geometry. I can easily make the wing every time on my table and it's 4-1/8. Taking away the angle via 9 on the spot and a break box removes that geometry. Filler even proved last year in WI(?) a wider break box isn't enough. If you have the wing wired you can focus on controlling the CB *and* the 1.
Was it DCC with the bigger box? He made a joke of that tourney if I remember rightly lol

I think of the break as a skill set, so why have rules, and so many rules, restricting the break?

All the Pro tournaments cured the wing ball issue by going to 4 1/4'' pockets..., yes the wing ball still goes, but few players are making multiple balls and even fewer are running out, there are very few big packages.
Pocket size doesn't change geometry. I can easily make the wing every time on my table and it's 4-1/8. Taking away the angle via 9 on the spot and a break box removes that geometry. Filler even proved last year in WI(?) a wider break box isn't enough. If you have the wing wired you can focus on controlling the CB *and* the 1.

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