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Derby City Bigfoot

Flakeandrun
fjk said:
Hmmm, interesting discussion. I absolutely believe 9 ball on a 10-foot table is more difficult. And while I have not played a lot of 10 ball, I do recall more clusters being an issue playing 10 ball on a 9-foot table. So maybe 10 ball is easier than 9 ball on a 10 footer.
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I cannot speak for everyone, only my own experience. I generally find the 10ft table to be easier for both games. But then my usual table is a Rasson Accura, Ox or Wolf with 4" corners.

I found (and still find) that my 10ball break took a lot of adjusting for me to figure out on the 10ft, takes longer to find it on the extended playing surface than on a 9ft, but besides that, the biggest issue is finding the speed of the table. Somedays I am right on the money, somedays it takes a few racks, or worse, you think you have it and totally F an important ball. My 9ball break works with little adjustment, but there is no box marked on the table and we break from the rail.
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Derby City Bigfoot

F
Flakeandrun said:
Technically, it's pretty much the same game. But lines feel easier to see, both potting and position play. The downside is that controlling speed is harder. There's more space to navigate the table but the familiarity with 9ft has you running out of position until you adjust. The 10ft table also has bigger pockets. I personally find the 10ft table much easier to play than 9ft. Did take some head scratching to get my 10ball break working, I made a thread about that here before prior to a cash game I played.
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Hmmm, interesting discussion. I absolutely believe 9 ball on a 10-foot table is more difficult. And while I have not played a lot of 10 ball, I do recall more clusters being an issue playing 10 ball on a 9-foot table. So maybe 10 ball is easier than 9 ball on a 10 footer.
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Custom and High End Cues on the Decline?

Hail Mary Shot
On topic, got a future build being finalized before work will begin in a few months. Just waiting for one more type of wood. My builder offered me that he could add some beautiful intricate design for the same cost as that of my dream build Merry widow. As much as the cue would really look awesome, I just don't like the cue being overly decorated. The most I want on a cue as far as design goes is a custom logo on the butt section of the cue and some abalone inlays/rings. Main decorations are the wood burl grains or swirls. Final wood selections are cocobolo, rosewood and olivewood. I'm still thinking or considering a break cue with ebony and rosewood but I might settle for that dream cue. Cost is within my budget.
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Myth or real - Stroke smoothness as a requisite for certain shots

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nataddrho said:
Dr. Dave's definition is: stroke: the cue-stick and arm motion required to execute a shot.

I'll use this definition, and therefore I'll have to update my answer because I've only been considering the cue-stick.

If all different body stances, bridge hand positions, bridge lengths, elevations, grips (for example dart jump shot, pique, masse), and then different applied English and power are considered different "strokes" then the variations are infinite.

If we don't use the word stroke anymore, this is my PSR
1. I look at what I want to achieve. Usually it is always the path that I want the cue ball to travel. Secondary is the object ball (in pool or carom).
2. Then I stand there imagining the ball-fraction-tip-position combination needed. I call this my mental simulator. I stand almost perfectly still simulating over and over again the shot, depending on the complexity, up to around 5 or 6 seconds. If there is an audience watching me play then I can feel them watching my stillness and can get subconscious and rush sometimes, but it depends.
3. I now have my solution in my head.
4. I get into position for the shot, whatever that position is.
5. I set my cue tip on the cue ball exactly where I imagined it in my head.
6. I then hit the ball by moving the cue back and forth in a straight line.

So I don't really think about different body positions or mechanics or anything like that. What is important to me is that I match reality with imagination as best as I can, and I've found this to be a powerful feedback cycle. The consequence of this is that my cueing action is perfectly straight. I can execute all types of shots the same way. The only difference I would make is that if I really want to hammer on the top spin then I would take a bigger back stroke and accelerate more "slowly" (counterintuitive) but it is accurate that way.

Also I play by feel, I don't use diamond systems or anything, doing math while playing is a distraction for me. For others it is useful.
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There.
Now picture the World Elite version of you where results are jammed toward the absolute - just like the self fulfilling calculus.
Does your one size fits all solve all?
You of all people should be able to account for the dynamics of "proper" technique. Clearly not one size fits all.
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Derby City Bigfoot

Flakeandrun
jasonlaus said:
Have you ever played on a 10'? Serious question.
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Yes, I play on one twice a month on average. It's quite expensive though. Well, compared to my usual hall where I barely pay a thing. A couple of times a month I will go to the other side of the river and play with a friend. Usually 10ball, but occasionally 9ball. It's convenient, as my GF works in the building across the road, so we usually get dinner after.
Won a bit of money on that table. It's a Diamond with the (I wanna say cherry) vibrant wood finish. I like that the hall uses the classic Aramith balls, and the cloth is powder blue Simonis. Makes a nice change from Dynaspheres or black aramiths and CPBA at my local.
I've posted a few pictures of it on the forum before.
jasonlaus said:
There is nothing easier about pocketing balls on a 10'
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Technically, it's pretty much the same game. But lines feel easier to see, both potting and position play. The downside is that controlling speed is harder. There's more space to navigate the table but the familiarity with 9ft has you running out of position until you adjust. The 10ft table also has bigger pockets. I personally find the 10ft table much easier to play than 9ft. Did take some head scratching to get my 10ball break working, I made a thread about that here before prior to a cash game I played.
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Pagulyan Carbon Fiber shaft?

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Paul_#_ said:
View attachment 879510I learned very little from the video on how this shaft differs from others. I was curious, though, about this snip from the video. If Pagulayan is only selling a shaft, what is the wood-looking portion?
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Somewhere in the description they cite the wood like action properties. Sounded like it's a cored maple shaft wrapped in CF.
Also, low deflection foam. :ROFLMAO:
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Meet My Coaches

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ShootingArts said:
One big flaw I see is trying to piece mill skills. Take one bit from one player, another bit from a different player. The bits assembled from a bunch of great players often adds up to crap. Several different things I competed at, I found it best to try to learn from or copy one strong player. If I ever got where I could beat them then maybe I focused on another player to learn from. A bunch of instructors results in the same deal. Find one instructor and put your trust in them. If the time comes to move on that is fine but don't listen to a bunch of voices at once.

Hu
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Piece mill - I'd always heard this as piece meal. Peace meal makes no sense. :ROFLMAO:
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