You sound upset bro
Best 9-ball or 10-Ball Gambling Conditions
- Thread starter mikeyfrost
- Start date
You sound upset bro
I like 4 1/4 pockets, 860 speed with normal rails, nothing bouncy and a Measles cue ball.
My shotmaking is better than my position play, so I prefer pockets on the tight side of fair and average speed cloth. I can move the cue ball fine, just not predictable with my speed most of the time.
Most times I'm getting weight, so it's nice to have tighter pockets that rattle balls and leave me a tap-in for the money.
Most times I'm getting weight, so it's nice to have tighter pockets that rattle balls and leave me a tap-in for the money.
Kick like mule
Registered
I like it tight and fast 
4 inch pockets 860 new cloth.
4 inch pockets 860 new cloth.
I beat you 6 sets in a row on a tight and fast table Charlie...please relax. #facts
My main reason for the subject is I've gained a new level of appreciation for a nice worn in slow table with average pockets. There are so many shots people shoot, often incorrect, and think that's the best way to get shape That this table just won't allow. I don't mind balls that rattle in nearly as much as the no stroke but the cloth is quick so it doesn't matter guys.
Nothing like playing nine ball on a snooker table when your 17. Zing bing bang where the hell is that ball shooting of too, lol. I can't be the only one, those little red balls were easy compared to playing nine ball, for some reason a snooker table between two 9ft Gold Crowns appealed to me.
Fast and tight is what I like. Allows for more of a finesse game with whitey. Slow rollers can kill you on any table fast or slow.
Depends on my opponent.
Good question.
I've grown a bit tired of all the B players and below that have to play on tight equipment. I think they have been brainwashed. I still consider 4 1/2" pockets tight but I guess that's probably because I don't get out much....not out of the basement, nor out on the table.
Fast tables still get the better of me. My stroke tends to break down on the slow rolled balls but don't tell anyone that. I know....I know.....I'm working on it.
I'll go for fair and slow (to medium) but those types of tables are going the way of the typewriter.
I've grown a bit tired of all the B players and below that have to play on tight equipment. I think they have been brainwashed. I still consider 4 1/2" pockets tight but I guess that's probably because I don't get out much....not out of the basement, nor out on the table.
Fast tables still get the better of me. My stroke tends to break down on the slow rolled balls but don't tell anyone that. I know....I know.....I'm working on it.
I'll go for fair and slow (to medium) but those types of tables are going the way of the typewriter.
Several people have said that. Now I have to wonder what makes certain opponents so much different on your preference?
1) Tight and Fast - playing a guy who you feel isn't accurate enough to make the balls, you are accurate enough but know your stroke isn't on point.
2) Tight and Slow - playing a guy you feel like you have a better stroke and are more accurate than. Probably means the game is even or only games on the wire type of spot.
3) Fair and Slow - playing a guy who you feel pockets as well as you do but doesn't have the stroke to finish racks. Your advantage has to be your position play to like this type.
4) Fair and Fast - playing a guy who can't win. Most likely stealing. Probably giving up a huge spot to someone who is going to miss a lot whether the pockets are tight or not. Probably playing Mikeyfrost for a lot of money giving up the break and wild balls for your second mortgage.
Help me understand the logic.
I agree I see so much emphasis on pocket size and this perception that the only way a table can be maintained is to have brand new cloth. So it's hard to find a table that is well broken in these days. They are very far and few in between. When you find them though you realize how much of a challenge they can be.
I don't consider the table when I evaluate my opponent. That's too defensive for me. I choose the table I like and try to use my opponents weakness on MY table choice if I can. I play to win rather than try not to lose.
No Simple Answer
It all grinds down to your ultimate objective....once I know that I'm able to plan my business. Here's an example. I once had the right game and the right bet on the right size table with the right balls and the right conditions...at least I thought so.... little did I know that being spotted the break shot was a complete disadvantage because of this particular situation and me not knowing that. There was a time I'd play most anyone (not rempe/sigel/hall etc) in my youth with the break, but I come from a dry climate and was playing on the east coast @ Weenie Beanies .....HUMIDITY and the room was also below ground NOT Colorado conditions ''at all''. They never cleaned the balls, the table was very dirty and the Rag Cloth of old was well worn, BUT the key was....once I realized it, I was Unable to make a ball on the break, period. I was spotting Steve Gumpfry the first shot after the break Every rack, I had No chance during those roll out decades, and he pocketed balls better than I at the time.
There's NO simple answer, it all comes down to the land of ''hard knocks'' and realizing your strengths and weakness's thru trial and error....and we can all Have a Bad Day even when we got the game we want. But remember, gambling is BUSINESS....period, and if you treat your customer/s with respect and what you'd like in return, win or lose your able to play again.
It all grinds down to your ultimate objective....once I know that I'm able to plan my business. Here's an example. I once had the right game and the right bet on the right size table with the right balls and the right conditions...at least I thought so.... little did I know that being spotted the break shot was a complete disadvantage because of this particular situation and me not knowing that. There was a time I'd play most anyone (not rempe/sigel/hall etc) in my youth with the break, but I come from a dry climate and was playing on the east coast @ Weenie Beanies .....HUMIDITY and the room was also below ground NOT Colorado conditions ''at all''. They never cleaned the balls, the table was very dirty and the Rag Cloth of old was well worn, BUT the key was....once I realized it, I was Unable to make a ball on the break, period. I was spotting Steve Gumpfry the first shot after the break Every rack, I had No chance during those roll out decades, and he pocketed balls better than I at the time.
There's NO simple answer, it all comes down to the land of ''hard knocks'' and realizing your strengths and weakness's thru trial and error....and we can all Have a Bad Day even when we got the game we want. But remember, gambling is BUSINESS....period, and if you treat your customer/s with respect and what you'd like in return, win or lose your able to play again.
I like your style. Got trapped but learned from it. We need to come up with a gambling calculation.
I just can't tell you how many times I've seen guys say they'll play a certain game only on this particular table and once they get that game they get completely hijacked.
Fair & Fast
I figure most guys to say Tight & Fast, 4" pockets etc... personally I feel this is not correct. The pockets for Rotation games should be 4.25"-4.5" not 4" for the game to be played properly. Pool is not Snooker, 4" pockets are perfect for playing 1 pocket. To play rotation game properly you have to be able to "work the pocket". Snooker players have to shoot center pocket to pot the balls, that's not Pool.
Here is my rule of thumb for proper pocket tightness as it relates to rotation games.
Set the OB frozen on the long rail between the 2nd & 3rd diamond, take the cue ball and place it 1/2 ball width off the rail with 2 1/2 - 3 diamonds of separation from the OB.
Fire the OB in the corner pocket drawing the cue ball back to the short rail with enough speed for the cue ball to bounce off the short rail at least 1 foot.
If you hit this shot clean the pocket must accept the OB into the pocket. If the OB hits the facing and rattles/hangs up not matter how good you strike the OB the table it too tight for rotation games.
I figure most guys to say Tight & Fast, 4" pockets etc... personally I feel this is not correct. The pockets for Rotation games should be 4.25"-4.5" not 4" for the game to be played properly. Pool is not Snooker, 4" pockets are perfect for playing 1 pocket. To play rotation game properly you have to be able to "work the pocket". Snooker players have to shoot center pocket to pot the balls, that's not Pool.
Here is my rule of thumb for proper pocket tightness as it relates to rotation games.
Set the OB frozen on the long rail between the 2nd & 3rd diamond, take the cue ball and place it 1/2 ball width off the rail with 2 1/2 - 3 diamonds of separation from the OB.
Fire the OB in the corner pocket drawing the cue ball back to the short rail with enough speed for the cue ball to bounce off the short rail at least 1 foot.
If you hit this shot clean the pocket must accept the OB into the pocket. If the OB hits the facing and rattles/hangs up not matter how good you strike the OB the table it too tight for rotation games.
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